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So, build logs aren't really my thing. For one, my fabrication skills are easily bested by a monkey on narcotics. Second, I simply don't have the patience to stop and take pictures when I'm in the middle of doing something. But, a couple people have asked so......here it is. My attempt at building kickpanels to house the CS603CF comp set. Thank you to audiolife for lending his ears while playing with the aiming, and GrampaDon for lending a hand at wrapping the kicks. Onward to the pictures I suppose. First pictures are of the basic molds for the kickpanels. My vehicle happens to have an opening in each kickpanel location that vents into the fender area, so I fashioned a hole into the molds for both kickpanels so that the midbass will see an infinite baffle alignment. The molds also have kind of an odd shape at the top because they were originally trimmed to fit around my horns. Wish I hadn't done that now that I'm not using the horns as I could have used a little extra height to work with...but I was not going to make new molds, so I rolled with it. The speaker baffles, which look a little like Mickey Mouse. Plunge router with circle jig FTMFW. First time I've countersunk with it (the midrange & tweeter baffles)....turned out pretty well IMO. The comp set in their soon-to-be home. Kickpanels in the kicks showing the aiming. I spent several hours spread over several weekend afternoons working on aiming. I felt this positioning did the best. I think the aiming might be a smidge different now as I originally didn't have quite enough clearance for the rear of the midbass with my initial aiming, and I can't remember when I took these pictures. But the aiming is pretty much the same, regardless. And the kickpanels how they currently sit. I trimmed the shape some compared to the above pictures. It's starting to get a bit chilly up here, so I've been using a heat lamp and antique heater (that I'm honestly surprised works, and hasn't caught fire yet) to aid the curing process. The passenger side kick (right) has 2 layers of 'glass and the drivers side has 1 layer. I'd planned to put another layer on the passenger side tonight but got home from work late. The temperature is dropping the next couple days, not sure if I'll get anymore 'glass laid down again until Friday/Saturday. But my goal right now is to atleast get them functional this weekend. Bondo/sanding/finishing them off may end up waiting until spring depending on how the weather goes. If they start playing music before winter.....that's good enough for me. And just for shits and giggles.....my ("son's") snake that I bought a few weeks ago He named it Joe Cool......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_YWKc_c51c

Well after having my wife TELL me to go play in the garage and put in my other amp in my truck (a 2000 GMC Sierra Z71 ext cab) before it gets to cold, I did it and I'm so pleased w/the sound and looks. Here's a rundown of the equipment used. HU: Eclipse AVN6620 AMP: Audison LRx5.1k MIDS: Silver Flute W17RC38-4 (6 1/2") TWEETERS: Phoenix Gold Elite (1") made by Morel after their MT-23 tweeter SUBS: TREO SSi12.22 (12" dual 2 ohm VC) EQ: AudioControl DQS PROCESSOR: Phoenix Gold BassCube The Truck, HU, I had to modify the dash to fit the double din, as it WAS a din and a half. I still need to finish off the trim around it, but am going to wait until I have to pull the HU back out to run extra cables for the monitors that will be going into the back of the front headrests. AMP, Chs 1/2 ~50w x 2 @ 4 ohms, Chs 3/4 ~160w x 2 @ 4 ohms, Ch 5 ~ 1150w x 1 @ 2 ohms, along w/the BassCube, DQS and +/- distro block. Mids, I need to redo the black trim that is now around the mids enclosure. I need to get pics of it, but am waiting until I get it corrected. Tweets, the pass side A-pillar needs to be touched up a bit too. It cracked a bit when I went to put it in. That shape was from the previous set up I had on them. Subs, The sub box isn't 100% done just yet, maybe ~80%. I'm going to redo the grills for the subs and paint the box w/a textured paint just like the mid pods and A-pillars. I don't have the gains dialed in 100% yet, but it's close and I need to tweek the eqs a bit. The HU has a 7 band para and the DQS is a 30 band graphic x 6 ch, + 2 band para per ch. for a total of 192 bands of eq for the DQS and another 7 = 199 bands of EQ hell. I'm using Eagles Hotel California as a reference disc. So far w/o much tweeking, it sounds great. I can really tel a difference from this amp and the PG ZX450va amp I was using on the mids/highs and that was a great amp in it's own right. I'm an Audison lover for life now after this amp has now spoiled me.

Let's start over. What are your goals and space limitations? We know the amp.

These amps are great! I already have one wired up in the car. It puts out power. Lots of it. Cheap 12 volt rated all made right here in the good 'ol USA. I can not believe that there are still some of these left. Thanks, Colby Webre

Pics, because it did happen.

Begin rant: :stands on soap box: You don't want to get me started on any amps from Korea/China I will rant about them for days. Stephen Mantz and I feel the same way about them...it's kind of scary of how similar our views are. They're cheap..and they work ok to a point. But there is so much stupidity behind how they work and what they are doing it is annoying that an "engineer" would come up with what they do/did. The build houses in China/Korea are all about cutting cost and parts because they make a billion of the same things a year. If you can save a dollar on every board, that is a billion dollars which adds up..I can understand that. But me, being me and how Scott and I stay true to what we do and how we do things...I, myself will never be a person to buy something and resell it and have no hand in it at all other then the UPS label, sorry. It is not my style. I am a control freak and I refuse to associate myself with anything that I do not truly do myself here, in the states. I'd feel like an ass buying amplifiers and marking them up 150% to turn profit on something where I had zero effort in..and truly do not know how every single component works and its function as a whole. Only for somebody else to "borrow" what "I" came up with and put it in a different case and call it their own and undercut me and sell them for 100% per unit margin. When I get involved in something, I know it inside..out..and backwards through the entire process. You have far less 'copies' or 'knockoffs' when you actually build everything yourself and machine parts in house and have the machinery to do what you need to do. /rant. 2.8 cubes is a wee small for the N2's. It would be ok for a burp if that is what you are trying to do...for musical applications it is going to be a tad peaky and anemic on the bottom end.

to the best of my knowledge this is what we have left... ------------------------------------------------ CARBON FIBER SERIES COMPONENT SETS 1 x CS50CF $195 1 x CS603CF $399!! 2 WAY CARBON FIBER SERIES Co-Ax 2 x CX50CF $93 10 x CX60CF $105 KEVLAR SERIES COMPONENT SETS 3 x CS50K $149 8 x CS60K $169 2 WAY KEVLAR SERIES Co-Ax 8 x CX60K $82 PXW SUBWOOFERS 7 x 8" PXW8D-D $59 ------------------------------------------------

Yeah..they pay the price in the end..if they would just slow down for 2 minutes and read they would never have an issue! But they come at our head for a minute because we're at the end of the chain. The sub is the thing that makes the noise that they desire, so if it blows up then it is our warranty issue.. The only problem is warranty covers manufacturing defects, not ignorance or stupidity.

It is called not knowing any better, and simply being a lemming and doing exactly what the manufacturer that really makes them says. It's simply not understanding how an amplifier works..in conjunction with a speaker. When you start to drop an amp below 1ohm more heat is being built up because the power supply and output portion of things of the amplifier simply cannot handle the demand that the output stage is wanting to get. When you do not have a subsonic filter...or one that is set improperly...you then start to make this thing that you've just microwaved move... You are slamming the gates open/closed on the output transistors at 90+% duty cycle, which is absolutely asinine and they freak out. Take a can of coke, pop the top open and bend it back and forth a few millimeters...within it's mechanical limitations that tab will never break. Now if you start to bend it past its mechanical limitations is when you start to get into trouble. This is where the subsonic filter comes in and making sure that you are not playing full power below port tuning frequency of a sub. If you already have something that's hot from running it hard on one of the Korean amps and you start yanking the soft parts past their mechanical limitations more and more heat builds up... You get to the point where so much heat builds up that the spiders start smoldering...they won't catch on fire until you've clipped the signal to death, vaporized all of the flame retardant spray that the spiders are soaked in and then it smokes. (square wave form, dc voltage out of the amp because the power supply cannot handle what you are doing to it) It's not the sub, there is absolutely nothing wrong with running those leads like they are. What's going on is an issue of the big cheap Korean amplifiers in and of themselves...and total ill-regard to what a microwave and conductive material does. Hope this helps you understand...if you run a Crown A6000Gti you'll never have a problem...because it's an A/B amp....the other stuff that is cheap...don't run it below 1ohm or you are going to have nothing but problems because in order to get that big power cheaply and cut out on the parts that are going into the amplifier the switching frequency of the power supply must be ramped way up...in turn microwaving woofer parts.

and Is what I use!

I really think he should just do a 12" BTL. It will still be pretty loud and you won't have to gut the rear of the cabin. It's why I moved down to 12"s from 15"s. I keep buying cars with trunks and I can't get a proper sized enclosure for a 15 in them. I always had to go on the smallest end of the recommended size and that would barely fit through the trunk opening. I did these in 1998 grand prix gt and 2009 honda accord. That's why I sold my 15 btl and dropped down to a 12. Unless of course this guy doesn't care about resell value of the vehicle. Then by all means do the delete.