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Fi .

I'd just get a dustcap and give the guy the rest of the money, he's got to feel horrible, no sense in stealing his money.

LOL....wow. Pretty salty. Wish their website had (a lot) more info on it. But those would have to be some pretty spectacular pieces of equipment to support those prices, considering they're priced up there with some of the best performing speakers on the planet. Well, now that time has gone by they have beat most all of the other high(er) dollar equipment, and took 8 awards and two world titles home from Finals, and all without a piece of time alignment nor processing to make them perform perfectly. All of these guys systems are running less than 5000 or 6000 dollar systems and beating systems that cost 6 to 12 times that much to build. I think that says plenty about the quality of speaker you are buying and that the price is not too high. Titles don't mean much, I'd much rather have full T/S parameters than saying they won the "Such and Such Award", or took home a few trophies.

No, it isn't a short, there is voltage drop across the device. But one single led connected to the output will be smoked in no time, you will almost cetainly exceed the voltage rating of the led. This is why you need to using a dropping resistor or multiple leds. Do yourself a favor, don't hook up anything to the amp terminals without at least a 1-2 ohm resistor is series with it. This way, no matter what you do or screw up, your amp will never see anything it can't handle.... If you completely understand what is gong on here, feel free to hook a bunch of leds up inseries directly to the output, it will work just fine....

whats ur box looking like? the box is a key item to ur system it will make it or break it. id stick with the mojo cause its a good sub with major potential. i'd save up money n sale the hifonics and get a better amp, saz-1500 or a saz-2500 sundown is a major step up from hifonics. and upgrade electrical

Fi > DC, just wanted to put that out there

Nope.. As it is something that VERY few people are going to need. Unless you plan on running a superstreet burp vehicle the sub simply has entirely too much motor strength. N2 is the way of the previous 2nd generation BTL and will do what it was intended to do. Musical applications.

Do you know any reliable Chrysler product?

It'll take a bit o' studyin'

Well I would rather run a more current driver than any DC sub.

Off axis usually works out best A lot of guys start by aiming at the speakers at the back of the headunit, then work from there. I explained why in a post a while ago: CLICK ME I played with aiming a lot. I would have liked to try them a little more vertical (but still off-axis) but didn't have the space height wise, and I would have liked to try them more off-axis (aiming straight across the vehicle) but didn't have the space width-wise from the firewall to the door opening. So I did have some compromises and limitations based on the speaker layout and space restrictions.....so I didn't get to try everything, but overall I think results are still pretty good.

How do you intend on designing and building these initial recones when you have no means by which to predict or measure T/S parameters? Despite what the internet would lead you to believe, you can't just throw random soft parts on some miscellaneous motor and end up with decent, much less good, results. Unless you (at absolute minimum) have a way to predict and measure T/S parameters, you are just going to be flushing money down the toilet by purchasing all of these parts, randomly assembling them, and then not having the slightest clue of what the final result actually is. You will also be ripping off the people who's subs you are reconing. Sorry, but you need to seriously rethink your plan. It would be pretty inadvisable to do what you are wanting to do.

Not many pictures today as I was busy working, and not much to see. I got the wires ran and passives wired up (have the passives under my front seats, large suckers won't fit anywhere else), used some CLD to "seal" the hole in the kickpanel to the hole in the car's kickpanel, then stuffed the kicks full of polyfill. I tried using the grills for the mids from the CS60CF's that I had laying around, but the grill's ring squished the rubber ring on the front of the midbass, which in turn deformed the surround....I was a little upset about that But at last, they make MUSIC !! (yes, I need to sweep out my car) What to play for their inaugural voyage? Nothing less than the King of Pop ofcourse!

Jumping on a forum and trying to badmouth a company without understanding what they are talking about or the other side of the situation, and making false accusations is never good.

Considering your inability to even formulate a sentence I can make an educated guess at who is at fault here. And no, I have no affiliation with Fi but I do hate noobie idiots with attitudes.

Here's an update, What do these pictures tell us??? Yep it's time!!!! By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13

Why do you say that if you dont mind me asking?

Got some stuff done today. Had to work a little slower today nursing a hangover from the Carolina beat down of the Gators to win the SEC east. Still no cord to upload the vids to my laptop. Tomorrow. Got the seat covers put on, they look pretty nice especially for what I paid for them. It was getting dark and I could still tug on them a little and make em look a little better. Still need to finish off the doors in vinyl. Now that the seat covers are on, I really dont like how dark the pods are, so they will get wrapped again one day soon to get them a little closer in color. The box looks good as it's a little lighter. Some pics: Let me know what you think. Some daytime shots of the box

PSI is there.. But their soft parts suck

Exactly, good bracing would have been cheaper and stronger.

Gauge panel installed and time to test out a few of the circuits... By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13

Here we go with some updates on the wiring for the gauges. Got our LEDs for the dash indicators. Things are starting to come together. Here are some pics. By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13 By grasshoper at 2010-11-13

Music and Flash interface does not connect to the amps, check this info: http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15503

I think the best suggestion would be to get the HO alt AND a second 2000d and strap the amps at 2 ohms. Your voltage will be more stable and you'll be giving some seriously good and potentially cleaner power to the subs. Just my .02

Agreed. At the price point for their "best" drivers, you can have even better drivers from Dayton, Peerless, Scan, Seas, etc. The Silver Flute comment disappoints me. I did not find their drivers very good at all. I tried them when they first came out several years ago, and if they are comparable to the Hybrid drivers, then the Hybrid drivers are over-priced junk in my opinion.

I'd take an FI or SSA sub over Kicker, Alpine, and the new RE stuff any day of the week.

The building of the custom guage cluster has begun. We made some good progress tonight and here are a few pics of the results. Decided on using a black plexi panel as the mounting surface for the guages. By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 Cutting plexi is a slow process, but it went fairly well. By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 Holes cut for the outer gauges. By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 All the mounting holes cut and the plate attatched to the backing bracket that will mount the guage cluster in the original location in the truck. By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 Mounting of the guages... By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 Cluster ready for some wiring and we have decided to incorporate some LEDS into the face of the cluster for turn signals, high beams, and parking brake. By grasshoper at 2010-11-08 Lots of wiring for us to do over the next few days and awaiting the LEDs to show. Stay tuned for more...