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It doesn't matter if I can throw a million watts at a woofer.. I'm concerned about how well it uses that power.. The hdc3 woofers' have extremely high inductance.. They're basically power hungry whores. Either way id suggest Fi.. The DC stuff is old designs from RE that Scott later improved on..

Make sure to watch in HD!

might want to read this review if you haven't already good luck with either choice

Incredible! Watch in 1080p

So its time to finally do this review. First things first Mark and Aaron are great guys who run an honest business and sell amazing products. As of now they have been in my car play music for a year and half. They are still in perfect working order and the spiders and surround remain firm. Coil has no signs of wear and there is no mechanical noise what so ever. These play music for me daily and i mean every day and they get a good bit of abuse on the weekends ejecting people from my car. I can honestly go to say they can play anything and everything with extreme precision and authority. I cant speak enough good things about them nor can anyone who gets to hear them. I have so many comments from people telling me its ridiculously loud it is but i can tell what its playing. To me that's the pinnacle of this driver and it hits it to a tee. If your looking for a new driver give it a try im sure you wont be disappointed. If anyone has any questions ill be willing to answer them.

Fi 15" btl. Jk. Of the two I'm sure either one is a great choice. Go with the one that's in stock. Get it faster.

Since they are D2 coils, wire one amp per coil and gain match them, you'll have 2 Kw+ on your BTL and no need to get another amp

Well, now that time has gone by they have beat most all of the other high(er) dollar equipment, and took 8 awards and two world titles home from Finals, and all without a piece of time alignment nor processing to make them perform perfectly. All of these guys systems are running less than 5000 or 6000 dollar systems and beating systems that cost 6 to 12 times that much to build. I think that says plenty about the quality of speaker you are buying and that the price is not too high. Team Linear / Blues did not make this comment ... Please do not bash us ... We are letting the equipment speak for it self ... Thank you people that have heard our systems for giving us your oppinions ... Neither Impious or I bashed anything other than the people who claim that the stuff that wins a competition is the best. That comment is absurd. As for letting the equipment speak for itself, I gave you the right way to do that here:

Exactly as Julian said, Scott Atwell's designs from his RE days make them and the DC woofers kissing cousins, he has since improved upon the same designs in the Fi and AA lineup.

Well put. Terrible mechanism for testing speakers IMO. A Klippel, Laser Vibrometer and a true measurement mic in an anechoic space are FAR, FAR better for testing. And anyone who argues differently is drinking marketing koolaid and/or completely clueless.

Get rid of the 4x6's and use one set of components. It will solve your problem and greatly improve your sound.

I do hate CrapMat. i hate it so much i bought porkchop like 50 SDS tiles to replace the fatmat he was installing in mama chops durango. IAK is a family and i dont want my family inhailing tar fumes on a hot day. No no amps in yet. its hard to find daylight to finish puting all the interior back together. ive been getting off around 5 and its dark when i get home. after this project is finished we wont have work untill around january so i should have some time next week. also still waiting on alton to design my box *wink wink*

LOL....wow. Pretty salty. Wish their website had (a lot) more info on it. But those would have to be some pretty spectacular pieces of equipment to support those prices, considering they're priced up there with some of the best performing speakers on the planet. Well, now that time has gone by they have beat most all of the other high(er) dollar equipment, and took 8 awards and two world titles home from Finals, and all without a piece of time alignment nor processing to make them perform perfectly. All of these guys systems are running less than 5000 or 6000 dollar systems and beating systems that cost 6 to 12 times that much to build. I think that says plenty about the quality of speaker you are buying and that the price is not too high. That really doesn't mean anything. Sorry to burst your bubble. Competition is not a valid format for comparing individual products as there are far too many variables at play. This is where things like empirical testing become extremely helpful at identifying actual, meaningful differences between products. The products might do well in competition yet still very well be underperforming for their price, and overpriced for their performance and/or build quality. What if I built a system that "beat" a Blues stereo in competition out of $200 worth of speakers with the same minimal processing? Using your logic, that would then prove conclusively that they are overpriced, correct? Sorry, I'm not impressed by their "SQ" competition awards (although I do offer congratulations to the winners, who I'm sure devoted a large amount of time and sweat into building their systems). I'm sorry I'm a more demanding consumer, one who is not going to be awestruck by some shiny trophies and requires more in-depth information. I'm sorry I'm not willing to accept a determination of a products worth or performance based on primarily subjective opinions. And I'm sorry that I'm one who understands the value and benefit of empirical analysis. They very well might be worth the asking price in terms of performance. But some trophies and subjective opinions are not what's going to make that statement true, at least not with any semblance of actual validity. It will take a much more scrupulous examination to make that kind of determination.

Just in... 8 In Stock and ready to ship.

Got my Boss today. For on the cheap, it is a nice amp no doubt. The Plexi panel with the screen print is cheesy really takes away from the build quality which appears to be very good for this price.

The DC Subs are just old FI designs which were sold by the owner of PSI to the owner of DC

Off axis usually works out best A lot of guys start by aiming at the speakers at the back of the headunit, then work from there. I explained why in a post a while ago: CLICK ME I played with aiming a lot. I would have liked to try them a little more vertical (but still off-axis) but didn't have the space height wise, and I would have liked to try them more off-axis (aiming straight across the vehicle) but didn't have the space width-wise from the firewall to the door opening. So I did have some compromises and limitations based on the speaker layout and space restrictions.....so I didn't get to try everything, but overall I think results are still pretty good.

From the pictures they appear to be aimed fairly off axis to the listeners, which is not uncommon as this allows the listening axis of both seats to be closer to equally off axis to both speakers which in turn helps the frequency response have less deviation between the L & R speakers at the listening position. If you look at pictures of some of the big name competitors, their mids are hardly ever aimed at the listener. They are usually aimed far off axis, many times aimed straight across the vehicle at each other. Vertical (height) ques generally begin to occur when the wavelength of the soundwave is equal to the height of your ear. Generally this will be in the 3khz - 4khz range......But if ya got big honkin' ears you may start to recognize height ques at a much lower frequency The potential problem with separating the mid from the tweeter by a great distance (a distance greater than the wavelength of the crossover frequency) is coherence and frequency response at and near the crossover point. It can be overcome, but something that needs considered. In midbass frequencies the wavelength of the sound wave is typically longer than the diameter of the cone (for the speaker sizes we typically use in car audio) so the on- and off-axis response of the driver is not going to deviate from each other. But as frequency increases and the wavelength becomes smaller than the diameter of the cone (as may happen in the midrange frequencies) the soundwaves generated by the cone will begin to destructively interfere with each other and the off-axis begin to roll off and deviate from the on axis response. Think of the speaker as an array of tiny point sources. When the wavelength of the soundwave is less than the distance between the sources, they can destructively interfere. Where this problem occurs for a driver playing midrange depends on the diameter of the driver. The effect is referred to as "beaming". This is one of the reasons I mentioned above that many competitors intentionally aim speakers off axis to both listeners. If you aim a speaker on axis to one listener, it will inherently be off axis to the other listener. Since in the midrange frequencies beaming usually begins to occur, the on and off axis response is going be different. One thing you generally want in a good stereo setup is for the frequency response at the listening position to be the same from both the left and right speakers. And if you want a stereo to sound equally as good from both the driver and passenger seats, then the frequency response at both seats also needs to be the same. So if you aim the speakers on axis to the driver, the passenger will be off axis and hence the frequency response will likely be different. If you aim the speakers at some arbitrary point between the two seats, then you will be more off axis to the near side speaker than you will be the opposing speaker which will create a difference in frequency response between the left and right speakers. But if you aim them close to equally off axis to both listeners, then the response at both listening positions and from both speakers will be closer to the same. Some competitors start by aiming the speakers either at the opposing speaker or at the back of the headunit, then make their adjustments from there. I tried to help. Sorry, I didn't read this paragraph before asking about the crossover

Those amps don't do well on low voltage you need to get a digital volt meter and or a Stinger volt meter. :peepwall: