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anyone want to see this 2250wRMS monster?

Easy enough To promote the brand, we are going to be offering a special trade in program so that you can get rid of your old/unwanted equipment. Please message us here or email (fastest response time is email) with the subwoofer/amplifier model(s) you have to trade in and we will tell you how many subwoofers we will offer for your item. If you have a less expensive item we will accept partial cash as well. We will always offer a larger value on all trade ins then you would normally get cash, as well as send UPS shipping labels so that it is free for you to send us your items. This is hassle free and worth your while! Looking forward to taking all of your items off your hands! Regards

I tell you what, if someone is willing to risk their life for this country, their brothers, their friends, and their families, I don't give a fuck how they like meat. They shouldn't be questioned and it shouldn't matter, and if they are gay and proud, they should be allowed to shout it from the heavens.

so far everyone who has seen these, have the same reaction. Comparing them to sex. lol, so really, it's on topic.

The power you will need will be determained by your enclosure. It has absoluetly nothing to do with the RMS rating. Make sure you can build, or have someone design and build you an efficient box, this may make it a little bigger than you first think, but this is how you use your power wisely... As long as the Hifonics amp is working properly, it's performance will be as close to any other class D on the market.... I used to repair car audio amplifiers on the side to make money. I looked at the output of many amplifiers.... The class Ds are generally about the same.... And unless they are not working right, they are all similarly efficient... Go to Walmart, buy that huge-ass yellow SOB battery that is like $100. It will outperform any "car audio" battery under a few hundred bucks... And you can take it back as many times as you want if you kill it, or just want a fresh charge... Make sure you secure it so it doesn't go flying around and short out somewhere... Use good wire, upgrade the "big 3". Don't buy any of your power wire from a car audio shop, or anywhere else that says it is "car audio" power wire. Use welding cable. Don't terminate the wire shitty. Either borrow/buy a crimper, or have the welding shop terminate the wire for you. They normally have large crimpers that will do this, and if you buy the cable there, they'll probably do it for free.... Also, don't think you'll need "car audio" terminals, if the welding shops sell the big-mofo copper ring terminals that will fit you application. You'll just need to use something like NOALOX to coat them and the termination with due to them being bare copper. Paint them as a minimum after they are installed to places like the frame of the vehicle... This is how you do it right, on a budget...

ZCON sitting next to it's little brother (XCON)

Nope. Mainly to allow the manufacturer to get more money out of your wallet and into theirs. Some of them also include other "useful" features, such as some equalizer bands and such, which in certain circumstances may be of benefit to the system (note that it's the other features and not the "line driver" feature that would be the primary benefit to the system in this case). But other than that the only, ONLY, benefit to a higher preamp voltage is if you are experiencing noise in your system that can only be eliminated with either a lower gain setting or higher signal voltage level, and this is rarely the case. As helotaxi said, a higher preamp voltage improves the SNR of the signal transfer and allows for a lower gain setting. Some amplifiers can have audible noise with a high gain setting, so increasing the preamp voltage allows the user to lower the gain and eliminate the noise issue. But with modern amplifier designs, this is pretty much a non-issue in most situations. Or if there is a high noise floor during the signal transfer, increasing the voltage of the signal increases the SNR of the signal. But again, this is rarely the case and in most cases routing signal cables away from noisy areas in the vehicle will solve the issue. The gain (or input sensitivity) knob is on the amplifier to allow the amplifier to output full power with a wide range of input voltages. The gain knob basically adjusts the level of the input signal so that it will effectively "see" the same amount of input voltage. Rather you start at 2V or start at 8V, if you properly set the gain the amplifier won't know the difference and it will output the same amount of power in either circumstance. If you properly set the gain, there would be no difference in output levels between a 2V headunit and an 8V headunit. Now, what happens if you start with a 2V HU and then switch to an 8V HU but don't readjust the gain? The amplifier is set to adjust the input signal based on an expected 2V of input signal. But you are now sending it 8V, so it's not properly adjusting the level of the input signal. It's receiving a lot more than it was expecting to see. As a result, it's going to output more power because it's letting too much of the input signal pass through to the amplification stage. This means the amplifier is going to output more power with the gain set to the 2V setting and an 8V input signal than it would with a 2V setting and 2V of input signal. In order for the amplifier to properly adjust the input signal for the higher 8V input signal, the gain would need to be reset to the 8V setting. Now you might be thinking "Hey, cool, if I don't readjust the gain that means I can get a lot more power out of my amplifier then, right?" No, this is bad. This is bad because the amplifier is going to amplify the input signal too much and clip the signal it is outputting to your speakers or subwoofers. This clipped signal contains more average power than the amplifier operating below clipping (with a properly set gain), and as a result could potentially damage your speakers or subwoofers depending on the circumstance.

If there is no more power then there is no additional headroom. Headroom is power available beyond what is needed for normal sound production. If the amp is capable of producing 200W and the normal power used on music is 50W you have 6dB of headroom in the system. Gain setting is not related to headroom. Gain setting is not related to how "hard" the amp works. Setting it correctly allows you to get full power from the amp regardless of source voltage. Having it set incorrectly does one of two things. If it is set too high, you have a very limited range of usable source volume control before the amp is driven into clipping. If it is set too low, you simply will never get full power from the amp. It is really that simple. The only benefit that you might see from higher signal voltage is the reduction in gain can keep noise out of the system. Every signal cable has a noise level present in it. The voltage of that noise stays constant. With an extremely low signal voltage, the gain on the amp has to be turned up and that amplifies not only the signal, but also the noise. Higher signal voltage essentially increases the s/n ratio of the signal cabling. 2V is way more than enough to completely overcome the line noise in most any system. Beyond that its all about marketing. Sounds like my kind of gig.

They sell oversized drain plugs at the hardware and parts store. The Oversized plug starts tapered and has slots for the die action. And yes I have personally used them. VERY cheap fix you can install yourself when you change the oil.

So day 2 of box assembly.. started cutting the top baffles of the box out. Flush mount for teh sexy look. The outer diameter of the subs is stated at 12.5" on Fi's website, but it was a little off, we had to sand down 1/16" or so on each flush mount hole, kinda' annoying but whatever needs to get done. We glued 'n screwed the top pieces together and started fitting the dowel bracing. 1.5" dowels should do the trick First blood!