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got my shirt in today. thanks! great quality as usual Uploaded with ImageShack.us back: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

1 warm up, 2 to 12, and 3 to failure. My understanding has been that the 3 reps that matter most are the last 3 to failure, which is why i target 3-6 on my failure reps. On that premise, I have read about unloading and wish I had the people to help me with it. The goal is to find your failure weight first, then to unload the total weight during the exercise. For example, say my 5 rep failure weight was 200 pounds on the bench, do my 200 to failure, then have X amount of weight removed while I am parked (for the bench I am at my chest, for curls I am at the top of my curl, for military i am parked at my shoulder, etc.) from both sides at the same time. The reduction in that weight should allow me to continue with that set for 3-5 reps to failure, then remove more weight again for 3-5 reps to failure. According to my research, this keeps the muscle parked within that mass/strength region we actually target in our routine. You can do 1 or 2 sets this way, and achieve the same results as 3-6 sets. It also requires less recovery time, less time in the gym per workout, and the ability to lift less frequently.

Wow what a thread to start, if your interested in the sub the best person to talk to is the person selling it since he knows more about the sub and how it performs then the users on here. If I had room to fit an 18" in the trunk I would go for it. What is making you ask this question besides it is a good buy, that is subjective and a personal decision in my eyes. Now if your looking for it to fit your application then please ask another question with more info that pertains to you so we can see if it fits your goals or needs.

O.K. Had some free time today and the sun was out so I took atvantage of the warmer temps and started wiring the car and dropping in some new speakers. Had to pull the wheel liner to get a spot that I could reach from inside to pull wire through. Then I opened up an existing hole for a grommet and silconed the grommet in place. Ran the wire into the cabin and siliconed around the wire to make sure it's weather tight. I sleeved the wire with some rubber hose to protect it since it has to run over a sheet metal edge. Had to remove the cowl cover to drill it and run the wire though it. The power cable fit real nice it the clips that were there already from the factory. At this point I started running speaker wires and then got side tracked and ended up installing the speakers also. They are an old set of 3 way Boston Acoustics Pro series with 6.5" midbass, 4" mid, and tweeter. The stock speaker is rather odd, the whole thing is injection molded plastic. I did make use of it for the new speaker install though. I cut out the basket and dropped my new speaker into the frame for a direct fit to factory loction. Deadened the door, ran the wires and installed the drivers. Made mounting plates for the 4" to go in the factory dash location. I ran a bead os silicon around the plates to prevent cancelation. I'm going to use some foam around the clips on the grill to seal up the other openings. Now I need to finish the power and grounds and mount the amps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5Vb9SLkq5k

a bit of sanding/shaping ..... a notch for the window handle and some more shaping to smooth things out

Internet stores like SSA and have bought some used stuff. I buy a ton of stuff from Amazon.com! I freaking love Amazon. Edit to add.........I would buy local, but they sell crap!

mostly all online (ssa store, ficaraudio.com, knukonceptz.com, sonicelectronix.com). Only local dealer I dealt with is Argent Audio

The power you will need will be determained by your enclosure. It has absoluetly nothing to do with the RMS rating. Make sure you can build, or have someone design and build you an efficient box, this may make it a little bigger than you first think, but this is how you use your power wisely... As long as the Hifonics amp is working properly, it's performance will be as close to any other class D on the market.... I used to repair car audio amplifiers on the side to make money. I looked at the output of many amplifiers.... The class Ds are generally about the same.... And unless they are not working right, they are all similarly efficient... Go to Walmart, buy that huge-ass yellow SOB battery that is like $100. It will outperform any "car audio" battery under a few hundred bucks... And you can take it back as many times as you want if you kill it, or just want a fresh charge... Make sure you secure it so it doesn't go flying around and short out somewhere... Use good wire, upgrade the "big 3". Don't buy any of your power wire from a car audio shop, or anywhere else that says it is "car audio" power wire. Use welding cable. Don't terminate the wire shitty. Either borrow/buy a crimper, or have the welding shop terminate the wire for you. They normally have large crimpers that will do this, and if you buy the cable there, they'll probably do it for free.... Also, don't think you'll need "car audio" terminals, if the welding shops sell the big-mofo copper ring terminals that will fit you application. You'll just need to use something like NOALOX to coat them and the termination with due to them being bare copper. Paint them as a minimum after they are installed to places like the frame of the vehicle... This is how you do it right, on a budget...

I think you bring up some very valid points. My wife likes Enrique Iglesias, she thinks his voice is so great. I told her it was engineered, you can hear it. Of course, she get's bent. But you are right. Even lossless it sounds like ass. 1000kbps? Sorry, this is not a real level of MP3. Some mp3 generators may claim high bit rates, but that is greatly exaggerated. Non-standard bit rates up to 640 kbit/s can be achieved with the LAME encoder and the freeformat option, although few MP3 players can play those files. According to the ISO standard, decoders are only required to be able to decode streams up to 320 kbit/s I am not usually burning CDs, I use HDDs, but yes I can burn them properly. I use only high quality optical media (Taiyo Yuden), and i use only quality ripping and burning programs on a solid Lite-On burner. I am an avid burner (I have almost 2000 DVDs) and I also design and print all my own labels and covers. People here who know me will tel you, I don't do anything 1/2 way. Anyways, as i mentioned, I placed both a 320MP3 and a .wav on the same media, same song, and played it blind for my wife... read above. I listen to everything just about. From old school blues, to classical, to R&B, rock, metal, death metal, alternative, you name it. I can say though, outside of TOOL, APC and maybe Norah Jones, I have no music that I personally listen to from this decade.

Aluminum coil is for people who are going to really beat the shit outa the driver and push it too its power limits and want a little more peak in their output, so the aluminum have a little higher thermal limits.

Nope. Mainly to allow the manufacturer to get more money out of your wallet and into theirs. Some of them also include other "useful" features, such as some equalizer bands and such, which in certain circumstances may be of benefit to the system (note that it's the other features and not the "line driver" feature that would be the primary benefit to the system in this case). But other than that the only, ONLY, benefit to a higher preamp voltage is if you are experiencing noise in your system that can only be eliminated with either a lower gain setting or higher signal voltage level, and this is rarely the case. As helotaxi said, a higher preamp voltage improves the SNR of the signal transfer and allows for a lower gain setting. Some amplifiers can have audible noise with a high gain setting, so increasing the preamp voltage allows the user to lower the gain and eliminate the noise issue. But with modern amplifier designs, this is pretty much a non-issue in most situations. Or if there is a high noise floor during the signal transfer, increasing the voltage of the signal increases the SNR of the signal. But again, this is rarely the case and in most cases routing signal cables away from noisy areas in the vehicle will solve the issue. The gain (or input sensitivity) knob is on the amplifier to allow the amplifier to output full power with a wide range of input voltages. The gain knob basically adjusts the level of the input signal so that it will effectively "see" the same amount of input voltage. Rather you start at 2V or start at 8V, if you properly set the gain the amplifier won't know the difference and it will output the same amount of power in either circumstance. If you properly set the gain, there would be no difference in output levels between a 2V headunit and an 8V headunit. Now, what happens if you start with a 2V HU and then switch to an 8V HU but don't readjust the gain? The amplifier is set to adjust the input signal based on an expected 2V of input signal. But you are now sending it 8V, so it's not properly adjusting the level of the input signal. It's receiving a lot more than it was expecting to see. As a result, it's going to output more power because it's letting too much of the input signal pass through to the amplification stage. This means the amplifier is going to output more power with the gain set to the 2V setting and an 8V input signal than it would with a 2V setting and 2V of input signal. In order for the amplifier to properly adjust the input signal for the higher 8V input signal, the gain would need to be reset to the 8V setting. Now you might be thinking "Hey, cool, if I don't readjust the gain that means I can get a lot more power out of my amplifier then, right?" No, this is bad. This is bad because the amplifier is going to amplify the input signal too much and clip the signal it is outputting to your speakers or subwoofers. This clipped signal contains more average power than the amplifier operating below clipping (with a properly set gain), and as a result could potentially damage your speakers or subwoofers depending on the circumstance.

The price you PAID and the PRICE I got it for ya I would have to agree I STOLE IT!.......and QUESTIONS........ASK YOU.........The only question I would need to ask you is where do you get such quality CRACK ROCKS!