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Stupid question: If his alts are done and have been forever, and you're just waiting to complete the brackets......why not ship the guy his alts (more than likely the most costly part of this transaction), and DC Power contract and pay for someone like tejcurrent, another manufacturer right here on this forum, to build the brackets? It seems like this would go a long way towards completing the transaction on a pretty timely basis. At the very least, this would put the biggest chunk of change back into the OP's hands by having a tangible product in his possession. Then the only thing left is the bracket, which if another manufacturer such as tejcurrent can't produce on a timely basis, it's less of a refund that would need to be made by DC. And the OP can be on his merry way finding someone who can build a bracket for him. With all of the machine shops in the US, and another manufacturer right here on this forum whose explicit business is building alt brackets, I can't believe this isn't something that could have been completed at least since the start of this thread.....much less nearly 2 years.

First shot making croissants last night. Didn't proof them enough so they didn't quite rise as much as I'd like. Could have baked a little more too, but I of course ignored all directions and used the convection and changed the settings. Next time I'll have them nailed though. Oh, the funny ones on the bottom I rolled some chocolate in. Not pain au chocolate as I cut them normal first, but same basic thing.

Its hardly smaller. Maybe 1.5" shorter 1.5" can be a lot I was just carrying around my older model 1500 and it seemed pretty large, maybe the pic. and large trunk makes the amp look even smaller specs of box?

Bambam, I really think you should wait for the Zcon's or look at BTL's. I feel they would be more suited for you then the Xcon.

Yes FunBogie, Ive looked at the recommended enclosure. I know what design Im looking for. My forum states that I have limited room due to replacing my shitty BOSE factory 6x9's they hang lower than expected. Also to note, my torsion bar is broke off weld from my previous box being too tall. I have to limit the height in order not to interfere with those. Would it work the same lowering the box and going deeper? Yes it would work. When you decrease the height dimension, you will increase the depth or width dimension to maintain the same internal volume. Does that make sense? This might make it easier because it has already calculated the port area for you and the exact recommended interior volume for your particular subwoofer. Just play with the recommended design dimensions until it works for you and has the same internal volume and port area. I wouldn't use their box recommendations. The "SQ" box is tuned to 40hz and the "SPL" box is tuned to 44hz.

Wow. FIrst off. THis is the equivalent of lining up a Top Fuel Funny car in a drag race against a horse drawn buggy. Seriously. Car Audio and Electronics is nothing but a bunch of idiots. I know several manufacturers who were offered better reviews if they advertised when they were still printing issues. And finally. . . . Seriously?

those ratings are ridiculous. IMO the Xcon is the best of both world. It is extremely accurate at its full rms rating and still sounds great with half that power and gets crazy loud at the same time.

How do you score a sub? It sounds like that was more of a vehicle score.. Because all that can very depending on enclosure/install/etc. Also could be a biased score, and Could vary by judge. One persons opinion does not define a speakers overall performance.

If they can't tell the difference between a high powered competition sub and an SQ oriented driver, I'm not sure I'd trust their opinion...

First post for 2011.

Run it sealed and leave it sealed. About 250 watts is all it will handle. Maybe slightly more, but I doubt it. Short 2" coil.

Just contact Nick at Fi/AA. He will lead you in the right direction. I actually have a few laying around. If you can't come up with nothing I'll see about getting one to you. But try emailing Nick first.

First, let's better define midbass. Are you looking at a 2-way or 3-way front stage? Are you asking for placement suggestions, or driver selections? If the later, we need to 1st determine the installation and constraints, then determine a budget and listening/performance considerations. What are you and aren't you willing to construct and/or modify in the vehicle? Are you looking for good imaging and soundstaging? What type of processing will you have available? Will you be active or passive? I know it sounds like we're being pains in the ass and not answering your questions.....but really, we need to get a much better idea about things before we can try to help. You had an outline of what you were doing in your 1st post, but you've kind of been wandering since then in the direction are wanting to take.....so I'm not sure where things stand right now.

Is a 1200d too much for a stock alternator? and also, I have always wondered how you run a second battery The video did not embed for some reason.. Will a forum Guru please embed it? Here is a link to the video [Edit] Never mind there it is.. I must be too drunk.. ROFL!

GM roofs are known for flexing badly. Best to brace it with 4' strips of layered MDF with silicone to adhere it, then coat with the Damplifier Pro on the metal between the strips. That will give you the added rigidity.