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http://www.zedaudiocorp.com/PDF/ZedManual-A.pdf Page 13 in manual. Says 25 amp fuse for 4 ohm operation 60 amp for 2 ohm operation, you should be fine with 4 gauge wire.

Personally I would try to step up to 0ga. But the length of 4' isn't a problem.

VERY well put!! Now, for this particular question we have done a lot of testing so we have a good bit of experience.. That said, a 180 amp alternator in this car is going to give him about 120 "usable" amps over what he normally has, and with a couple of "good" batteries he should have plenty of adequate power under normal circumstances. The main thing to consider with a big amp like the 3500, is how is it going to be used. Is it in a daily driver that just bumps alot driving around, or is a comp vehicle. Kyles 3500 never pulled more than about ~100 amps at .5 on music at say 3/4 volume. On tones at .5 at high volumes, it may touch 180 BRIEFLY. In hours of testing, we NEVER saw over 200 AFTER we put a 270XP with a 15.1v regulator in it no matter how hard we pounded on it. Remember, music is dynamic and even though you may have a 3500W "RMS" amp, your dynamic load of the amp will almost NEVER exceed 70% of its rated power. If you calculate it to the letter for power consumption, 3500/15 15= 233 amps. 233/.8 (effiency) = 290 amp max power input required to make an actual 3500w of output power. Now, take 290*.6 (dynamic avg MAX current requirement on music) 174 Amps, which is the absolute MAX necessary for 3500 actual produced watts, which you will only see MAYBE 25% of the time. Will a bigger alt power it better, absolutely, no question about it. Will a 180 amp alt power it ok 90% of the time, no question...

Loudest sub I ever dealt with, this will get you in the 150's fo sho http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25529_PowerBass-PB-C156Dv.2.html

I have had alot of subs in the past. Most recently I have had an 18" btl an18" mayhem and now I have psi subs. Compared to what I have had the Zcon is amazing! I am not gonna say the Zcon shits on what I have had (FI and AA subs are badass also) but it sounds amazing it moves mad air, very well built. What I wad most impressed with was how it sounded. The bass rolled off smooth the lows were just banging!!! Overall it's a beast and a great sub. Also comes with some bad ass customer service as we all know. If your looking for a new sub something not alot of people have and will fit your budget, Zcon is what you want

if i picked up two of these I think I would wire them in parallel then run them off of a 125.2 lol! at 4ohm which would mean what 200rms per driver! lol! also how much depth is required for these speakers! it looks like a good 3-4inch! if so I have that to spare lol! summer project here i come! lol

8 ohm drivers are generally more efficient vs a 4 ohm driver with the same power. The driver isn't more efficient. Higher resistance or impedance in this case causes the amp to produce less power, and less strain vs a lower ohm load (say 1ohm for example), thus having a higher efficiency. But that doesn't mean it's more efficient on the same amount of power, because a 8ohm driver and 4ohm driver on the same amp will never see equal power (unless gains are changed...) well i ment the same power as lets say a 4 ohm driver on 100 watts vs a 8 ohm driver given 100 watts, the 8 ohm driver is more efficient. Still incorrect man. Depending on the drivers resistance, will change the electrical impedance and cause the amplifier to make more or less power. A direct swap out from a 4ohm driver to a 8ohm driver will cause the amp to see a higher impedance and thus create less power (same thing as wiring your subs from 1ohm to 4ohm. Amplifier produces less power but is more efficient, but just because it's more efficient doesn't mean it's going to be louder, or that the actual driver is more efficient... Hope that makes sense What if the amp has a regulated power supply and makes the same power at 2-8ohms. Now what? What point is trying to be proven here?