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Time to go outside and finish this box:

4 15" DB Drive subs sealed 1 saz-3500 4 D3100's 1 6500 Boss 4 channel only a few pictures, loud as balls IMO. 3/4 subs 2 of the 4 holes Boss Doin work! Those fuckers are heavy doin' moar werk.

Is that the only amplifier you're gonna be running? If you're running multiple amplifiers I'd run 1/0 gauge from the battery to a distrobution block (as close to the amp as possible) & then 4g from the distro to the amp. & if you're just running the one amp you can still do it that way, leaves room for future upgrades & a short 1-2ft run of 4g can handle the 1600w. ---Jacob

Everybody who has said anything about gain setting is 100% wrong. How do I know? You have NO idea what his RCA voltage is. The gain is to match line voltage, not to set a power level or just another dial to set randomly. Based on the fact that it didn't do it till you were likely moving things around, that tells me it's a connection somewhere. Either on the amp, or otherwise. I've only seen a 1200d blow onboard fuses from low voltage due to a poor ground, or a sub going bad. Any other condition it SHOULD go into protect before anything else, including running it below 1 ohm or too high of RCA voltage for the gain setting.

Well, before answering so swiftly, contact DC Power and ask them if they make an alt for your ride first. Then proceed to ask them how their alt will work with your vehicle based on how the stock alt... in a sense, doesn't work the way most do. See if a DC Power alt overrides the computer so it's always Boss.

It's confirmed as well as some other goodies. http://www.zedaudiocorp.com/News/news.html

Crunch CR150

There's a couple different ways: When running 2+ alternators, you can use one at 14.4v(although most will sit around 15v)) for your stock electrical, starting battery, head unit. The second and/or rest of the alts can be set to 16v for a 14v battery(s) or 18v for a 16v batter(s). These batteries would be completely isolated from your stock electrical, they could be a large battery bank in the rear of the car for just the amplifiers. Some amps aren't stable on 16v or 18v, so you have to check with the manufacture, but the upside is increased power. Or you could run 2+ alternators all set at 14.4v for stock electrical, battery bank, and amps. This is easier since nothing is separated. But when running multiple alts you have the choice to use some for stock electrical and some for amps with a higher voltage. This is handy because then you don't need to use step-downs if you have a single alt but want 16v or 18v. The case of an alternator is the ground, when it's mounted everything else in the vehicle (chassis, battery negative terminal, etc) is grounded to it (alt case). Hope that helps.

Thanks for all the kind words fellas. Here are some gut pics for all those who are into those things. Get a load of the power and ground inputs. I'm going to have as much $ in the electrical to power this thing as I do in the amp itself. Some scale shots of the transformers. The chip with the red dot in this pic is the brains of this operation. DSP FTW!

Just as an update... I had some problems with my amp. This was due to a combination of low voltage and vibration. So to solve the voltage issue I am going triple alts, as well as doing the following; Before; After; And before anyone starts going on about mixing batteries.... they are all agm batteries with the same float voltage. The grey batts are 700 cca and over 100 AH. More updates to come.

You are also correct, under some circumstances any amp is capable of making more than it's rated power, especially these amps. I was just trying to draw a comparison about relative power requirements. IF you can keep a 3500 supplied with enough current at say 15v at .5 ohm, your input power requirements are most definitely going to be higher.. The formula that I gave as an example still holds true though, you just have to change the calculations to reflect the higher output power of the amp.

got my 1500D in the mail! Thanks Hard rock!

Low Pass filters allow low frequencies to pass below a selected crossover frequency, filtering out all frequencies above it High Pass filters allow high frequencies above a selected crossover frequency to pass, filtering out all frequencies below it Start at 80hz on each for a good starting point. So, you would be sending 80hz and up to your mids/highs and 80hz and down to your subs. Play around with them from there to see what sounds/blends best.

I added this Then the UPS man came with two of this The motors looks like this The vibrations causes this Along with blowing the fi logo off I can't begin to tell you how ridiculous this setup is.... and it's only running with 1 3000D right now at .5 ohm(the other was damaged in shipping). I have ridiculous flex over my whole truck.... I even have grill flex and brake booster flex... It is beyond words. I should have it metered pretty soon... that will explain what words can not.

Quick note: you can always squeeze any size in a whole, no pun intended, you could simply shave off the outter threading of the copper wire until it fits. But only enough to get the apropiate amount inside.