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I hope so... I've spent plenty of $ with them to at least get a recone and some epoxy out of it.... Don't see why you'd expect a company to fix your screw up just because you've spent "plenty of $ " with them. If you cooked the coil, you cooked the coil. And that coil is cooked, whether you did it intentionally or unintentionally. Admittedly running the amplifier at low voltage doesn't help your case either. Fi might help you out, I wouldn't be surprised if they did just to be nice. But acting like you deserve it or something is owed to you is a jackass way of going about it. They don't owe you shit. EDIT: Didn't see Nick's reply before I posted.

Seeing as how the coil looks..I would put money on your amplifier is in the process of dieing..and/or has already died and taken out a sub with it. That coil has been HOT. Not so hot that it has been white, but it has gotten over 500 degrees...it will not debond and shift/slink like it did unless the bonding agent on the glue gasses which happens around 525 degrees. We'll definitely work on you for a recone and such..but I would look long and hard at the amp first. Speakers are stupid, they just do what they are told. Whether it be by you and the volume knob or the amp itself. There are no mechanical marks on the coil and the spider assembly was not rocking. "Since I haven't gotten my electrical problems fixed my voltage is dipping down far below this" ^^^^ That is really hard on an amp, and it will cause it to flip out and die..definitely shortening the lifespan.

No matter how many times it's told, there are always nonbelievers; assuming because you have a hole in an enclosure, it is ported, yes your enclosure has a hole in it but it is not a properly vented box, what you have is a leaky sealed box, and sadly it lacks the good things gained when you properly port a enclosure. Here is a technical understanding: http://www.bodziosoftware.com.au/PORTS.pdf

Here are some pics of a recently restored salt mine. Bare in mind that light in a mine isn't good and pics were taken with a modest point and shoot. Going down to the main hallway: The main hallway, you can actually cross under the whole hill and get from one side of the city to the other All the walls look like this: Stairway to the main chamber: Top of the main chamber and looking down: Chamber to the side of the main one, with a small lake on the floor: Chamber description: Miniature golf course, ferris wheel, bowling alley, amphitheater: Looking up from the floor of the main chamber: Looking up from the lake, towards one sealed off entrance: You can see the elevator here, again from the lake: Extraction machine: The echo chamber (it was actually a ledge above the chamber, all you could see is pitch black and the echo gave you chills, I could count 5-6 reverbs): I hope to visit again, with a better camera or a more organized schedule

I would go with a SSA Icon In a 2.25 cubic foot enclosure tuned around 30-32 hertz

What does the look of a sub have to do with a coil failure ? This feels just like when the gen 2's came out. Very few people believed they would perform like the first gen's. OMG, it looks so out of the box, it can't be good.

Sweet, you love the look. What a great reason to buy a sub You left out a clipped signal. He didn't leave out shit. He said "too much power". Perhaps I could simplify that for you and state that too much average power is "too much power".

To help answer the last section of your "issue". Trying to load a subwoofer with a baffle over it may work if it is designed correctly. After you removed the sealants you tried to use you had a properly loaded (using the trunk with the subwoofer mounted near the trunk lid) subwoofer for your setup. Hense no gain with trunk lid open or closed. Subwoofer Placement

Hit us up before you make hotel reservations ... someone here might be able to split cost or something ... Most of us give alot of INFO on caraudio-forum.com ... Come chat with us ... Thanks, Randal ...

Clipped from low voltage you admitted to ? These must have been lowered impedence than your previous subs. Trying to run that 3k at .5ohm ? LOL

Everybody who has said anything about gain setting is 100% wrong. How do I know? You have NO idea what his RCA voltage is. The gain is to match line voltage, not to set a power level or just another dial to set randomly. Based on the fact that it didn't do it till you were likely moving things around, that tells me it's a connection somewhere. Either on the amp, or otherwise. I've only seen a 1200d blow onboard fuses from low voltage due to a poor ground, or a sub going bad. Any other condition it SHOULD go into protect before anything else, including running it below 1 ohm or too high of RCA voltage for the gain setting.

The amp is rated at 3000 watts at 1 ohm at 14.4 volts Since I haven't gotten my electrical problems fixed my voltage is dipping down far below this... therefore these subs weren't seeing any higher wattage than their rms.

I hope so... I've spent plenty of $$ with them to at least get a recone and some epoxy out of it.... I really don't care what the thing looks like as long as it performs well.... and I am not impressed in the performance department, especially compared to the gen2... But who knows, the numbers may blow my socks off.... I am over a 150 already with plenty of room to grow wattage wise and box efficiency wise. SPL isn't what I'm doubting, the quality of the sound is what I'm not impressed with.... compared to the gen2.

You left out a clipped signal.

Any update on this? If it's not going to be covered or anything I'd like to go ahead and pay and get it shipped out.... I'm having to push everything back now since my equipment failure. Thanks!