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how did you have "too much" port??? why was this badd??? just curious... Well down low the Xcons were fine but when they played higher they did not like that at all, could hear a bottoming out kind of noise, and that was not gonna work for me, were gettin hot "stinky smells". I was lead to believe by un-named source that I was overdriving the amp or and enclosure design was not fit, and no matter what sub i chose would yield the same problem. But all I can say is they were wrong and the crossbreed SA "Z" subs are more than up to the task and to my surprise keep their composure with clipping, have not smelled them once. In closing I am only giving my experience with each sub, between the two with my given variables the Xcon seemed to maintain sq and authority while dipping low throughout any volume and had cooling issues and produced a distressed noise and smell which was the reason I chose to give them the boot. To sum this up these subs are not in the same class, "Xcon"= Loud with great SQ, and Sundown "Z" = Extremely loud SQ!

Fabrication takes time especially when you are learning as you go Enclosure size will be between 3.5-4.0 ft^3 with lots of port area tuned @30hz. I ordered the copper coils. Which did you get? Sweet, I went with copper also, I love copper coil subs!

batteries are ALWAYS live... Put in fuses before you start the car. Also.. install fuses last before starting car...meaning leave fuses out but go ahead and ground everything. That way, the circuit will complete in the fuse holder. IF there is any arcing from a grounding power wire, it's best that it be in the fuse holder rather than at the battery itself.

It's in there Casey.........Dig deeper!!! This looks like we were at a freakin' Rodeo!!! Man It got nasty Sunday.

Just read this whole log, So much detail, your work is very impressive, congrats on your home, and the build looks great!

correct LOL That's doing good seeing a the subs just got reconed 4-5 hours before the comps & demos started... Pounding the sh*t outta them for demo & videos plus winning first in every thing for day one...

SSA FTMFW!!!!!! Looks like yall had fun. Wish I could have been there with ya.

Those sails came out nice, wish i had some fabrication skills in the car audio arena. I just get frustrated easily with it. Can't wait to see the subs in action, they are absolute monsters, what size box you going to put them in.

I'm not sure if this is within your budget, but if you're willing to let go of another $100 you might give this a look. Fantastic amp at a great price when compared to buying it new. Also, I've heard nothing but good reviews about dB-r Electronics. Good luck!

always showing our respect to SSA!

It is really so nice to see people get together and have a good time with SSA t-shirts on.

No, a full size HLCD can typically play down to 800hz or so. Finding a mid to play up to 800hz and down to the subs shouldn't be problem. So you'll just need the horns and one set of mids. Well, a couple things. For one you would need to make sure it extends high enough cleanly to mate with the horn. Second, when looking at T/S specs don't get caught up entirely on efficiency. There are trade-offs involved. You would want to look for something with a reasonable Fs, Qts, Vas and Xmax. If you find something with too high of an Fs, too low of a Qts, and too large of a Vas (for your space) you're going to end up with a driver that, in car door, is going to end up being -10db down @ 80hz......but the sensitivity will look outstanding. So it needs to be a trade-off between a useable Fs/Qts/Vas and sensitivity. I hate recommending this as I know absolutely nothing about them; but you might talk to Sundown about the 10" mids they just released. The reason I hate to recommend it is because I know literally nothing about them performance wise and I despise recommending something I know absolutely nothing about.....but in this instance it may be something for you to research as Jacob claims these are basically the types of installs he designed them for. For that type of setup it would be the only way to do it. I would honestly look at two separate amps due to the different power requirements. I would do a smaller ~100 watt per channel @ 4ohm 2-channel amp for the horns (since they are 8ohm, that's around 50w to the horns) and then the most power you can find for the mids. Personally I'm a power freak, so I would look for something that can support ~600w minimum per channel @ 4ohm which would give you around 300w @ 8ohm as most pro audio style are 8ohm (most likely scenario is either bridging a high powered 4-channel amp down to two channels, or two separate 2-channel amps with one bridged to each mid). If you wanted a 1-amp solution, the Zed Leviathan would be darn near perfect. Probably talking about the MiniDSP. It's a cool little piece for sure, but it's not nearly as plug-n-play as specifically designed car audio processors. There is a lot of talk about them on DIYMA, here's a review thread on the MiniDSP. I don't know a ton about all of it's kinks; you may need 2 of the 4-channels if you want to include your subs in the processing since the processor is only 4-channel output (and the 8-channel model has some drawbacks compared to just using two 4-channels). By the time you get either two 4-channels or the 8-channel plus all of the necessary hardware, you are up in the same price range as used car-audio specific processors. I'm not sure if there's a time lag in the processing, so you might be required to run the subs through the same processor to keep everything in-sync.....but that might be addressed either on the site or in the review thread. LOL.....ID's site is a long story. Those look like the CD1Pro's.....good horns, would work for your goals more than likely. The next model up are the CD2's which can be found used for less. IIRC the CD1's extended a little better on the top end but the CD2's were a little more sensitive and had a little better sounding midrange but didn't do as good above 15khz. The newer CD Ultra's are supposed to be a good mix of the two but pricier since they are newer. Stay away from any CD1e unless they are the new v3 version. The v1 & v2 versions of the CD1e were piezo drivers; not as sensitive, not nearly as good sounding. Or if you wanted you could cook your own. Find a used set of the full size bodies and then buy your own compression drivers. The CD2 Neo's were basically B&C DE500 compression drivers, which you can buy from partsexpress. Radian, B&C and BMS all make good drivers you could mate with the full size horn bodies. I'll say it again though. Tuning this setup is going to require some knowledge and a decent ear. If you don't feel you have the capabiltiies then pursue a different route. A few passive component sets stand a better chance at sounding good than a poorly setup and tuned extreme system. Implementation and tuning is going to make or break the end result.

Well then, whats the bet you wanna make? You know the old saying when you assume something? While we may or may not have 2 of each amp here for testing to get real word numbers at different voltages and loads, I can assure you they will get tested. Crescendo has no plans of closing down anytime soon. He has hit plenty of road blocks but is here to stand tall and bring what these markets need. Affordable audio at real world prices. Like was mentioned, he doesn't have a huge markup due to the direct to customer routes he is taking. It is quality. Just a company thats going to bring alot of attention to the market due to the pricing structure that has gotten outta hand by mainstream companies over inflating their products value to make the average consumer think high prices means better product.

Alright all you whiners and complainers, you guys said you were gonna this and you were gonna that. It looks like they went up about 20 bucks but they are "new and improved" so links to your build logs, post up some pics and vids here too please.