Leaderboard

11¢, you forgot to add the cost of the release paper.

Second skin, doesn't it cost you like 10 cents to make 120sqft of deadener?

If your happy fuck it

note- never mount crossover in the door. this is a rule followed by all proper mobile installers precisely for this reason. There are drain holes in doors to allow water to fall thru and drain out.. no electronics should be mounted inside this area.

thats a kinetic.. XS POWER FTMFW!

Alright all you whiners and complainers, you guys said you were gonna this and you were gonna that. It looks like they went up about 20 bucks but they are "new and improved" so links to your build logs, post up some pics and vids here too please.

Oh...SNAP

Nope you get 2 D2 Dcons and wire them to 4 ohms. When you bring the two subs together they will drop down to a 2 ohm load. I don't think they make D2 Dcons, according to the store, but get 2 S4, "Single 4 ohm" Dcons and when you wire them together it will make a 2 ohm load. This is the diagram of how to wire the 2 S4 subs.

How many years have people been saying this, yet so many people still insist on going cheap. My favorite are the people who go with a $1 sq. ft. product and use three layers of the stuff... didn't that just make that $1 sq. ft. product $3 a sq. ft.? Math fails people like that. Have you heard anyone complain about the performance of SDS's or Second Skin's products? Hell you can even throw Dynamat Xtreme in there too. The only complaint I ever seem to hear is price...

No, a full size HLCD can typically play down to 800hz or so. Finding a mid to play up to 800hz and down to the subs shouldn't be problem. So you'll just need the horns and one set of mids. Well, a couple things. For one you would need to make sure it extends high enough cleanly to mate with the horn. Second, when looking at T/S specs don't get caught up entirely on efficiency. There are trade-offs involved. You would want to look for something with a reasonable Fs, Qts, Vas and Xmax. If you find something with too high of an Fs, too low of a Qts, and too large of a Vas (for your space) you're going to end up with a driver that, in car door, is going to end up being -10db down @ 80hz......but the sensitivity will look outstanding. So it needs to be a trade-off between a useable Fs/Qts/Vas and sensitivity. I hate recommending this as I know absolutely nothing about them; but you might talk to Sundown about the 10" mids they just released. The reason I hate to recommend it is because I know literally nothing about them performance wise and I despise recommending something I know absolutely nothing about.....but in this instance it may be something for you to research as Jacob claims these are basically the types of installs he designed them for. For that type of setup it would be the only way to do it. I would honestly look at two separate amps due to the different power requirements. I would do a smaller ~100 watt per channel @ 4ohm 2-channel amp for the horns (since they are 8ohm, that's around 50w to the horns) and then the most power you can find for the mids. Personally I'm a power freak, so I would look for something that can support ~600w minimum per channel @ 4ohm which would give you around 300w @ 8ohm as most pro audio style are 8ohm (most likely scenario is either bridging a high powered 4-channel amp down to two channels, or two separate 2-channel amps with one bridged to each mid). If you wanted a 1-amp solution, the Zed Leviathan would be darn near perfect. Probably talking about the MiniDSP. It's a cool little piece for sure, but it's not nearly as plug-n-play as specifically designed car audio processors. There is a lot of talk about them on DIYMA, here's a review thread on the MiniDSP. I don't know a ton about all of it's kinks; you may need 2 of the 4-channels if you want to include your subs in the processing since the processor is only 4-channel output (and the 8-channel model has some drawbacks compared to just using two 4-channels). By the time you get either two 4-channels or the 8-channel plus all of the necessary hardware, you are up in the same price range as used car-audio specific processors. I'm not sure if there's a time lag in the processing, so you might be required to run the subs through the same processor to keep everything in-sync.....but that might be addressed either on the site or in the review thread. LOL.....ID's site is a long story. Those look like the CD1Pro's.....good horns, would work for your goals more than likely. The next model up are the CD2's which can be found used for less. IIRC the CD1's extended a little better on the top end but the CD2's were a little more sensitive and had a little better sounding midrange but didn't do as good above 15khz. The newer CD Ultra's are supposed to be a good mix of the two but pricier since they are newer. Stay away from any CD1e unless they are the new v3 version. The v1 & v2 versions of the CD1e were piezo drivers; not as sensitive, not nearly as good sounding. Or if you wanted you could cook your own. Find a used set of the full size bodies and then buy your own compression drivers. The CD2 Neo's were basically B&C DE500 compression drivers, which you can buy from partsexpress. Radian, B&C and BMS all make good drivers you could mate with the full size horn bodies. I'll say it again though. Tuning this setup is going to require some knowledge and a decent ear. If you don't feel you have the capabiltiies then pursue a different route. A few passive component sets stand a better chance at sounding good than a poorly setup and tuned extreme system. Implementation and tuning is going to make or break the end result.

HLCD (horn loaded compression drivers) are vastly superior to "Super tweeters" or "Bullet tweeters" in every regard, with the exception of cost. Much better bandwidth, much better dispersion patten, much better overall performance characteristics. Why all of the SPL types use super tweeters is beyond me, other than the fact you can get super tweeters for $40 a pop at places like partsexpress whereas a good set of car audio oriented HLCDs are anywhere from $200 used to $700 new. The reason both types of speakers are used is because of their efficiency. Most have a sensitivity of 105db or more, which means they get very loud with not a whole lot of power. The average HLCD, for example, can get loud enough to literally deafen you with about 50w of input if you sat in the car for any extended period of time. At average listening levels (average to most people, not to you SPL types ), you'll be using less than a watt to power them. If I were doing a loud SPL type install where they primary goal was loud clear output, I would do a set of horns under the dash and the largest mids I could physically fit in the front doors or kickpanels, ideally 10"-12" assuming they had the ideal response. Good thing about horns is the upper end models can handle an xover point as low as 800hz, so the mid doesn't need to extend up very high (relatively speaking). A lot of high quality 10"-12" pro audio mids will handle an 800hz crossover point. Properly tuned and installed, this type of setup would not only be able to get deafeningly loud but also sound incredibly good at lower more "normal" listening levels. With this type of setup you wouldn't need anything in the rear doors unless you wanted them just for showing off at shows. Processing and tuning would be crucial though. A lot of the SPL'ers go crazy with a bunch of super tweeters and a dozen mids. Sure, it might look interesting when showing off but acoustically it makes zero sense.

someone blew a subwoofer? I didnt know subwoofers could be blown. They offer a recone kit? Why would such a kit be offered? I could see giving 3000 watts to a 500 watt driver... but 4000 watts to a 10,00000 watt driver? So it blew because he ONLY had 4,000 watts to give a 10,000000 watt driver then? Hmmm. interesting. Recone kit. Who knew?