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Alright, we'll do a little math here Say we have a consistent amount of current (amperage) draw at 100 amps and lets Say you were running at 13v. So to find wattage we multiply Volts*Amps 13v*100a= 1300w * .80 (for a Class D amplifier efficiency rating) which would come out to 1040w. So on the opposite side lets say you drop down to 12v 12v*100a=1200w * .80 = 960w In order to gain a noticable increase in output you need to gain at least 3dB. 3dB is the smallest a human can notice a change in output. and in order to gain the 3dB threshold you must in theory double your wattage.. so is that tiny amount of extra wattage going to matter in a daily driving scenario? The short answer is no, it would not matter what-so-ever. SO pick an amplifier that fits your budget, is aesthetically pleasing, and is in your power range. Granted what I've said isn't 100% perfect, but I hope you get the general idea behind it all.

The problem with the comments in this tread is that most of the comments are from people too young to remember when a Sony amp had 2400 watts screen printed on the face of it. Then you would get uninformed customers asking why the 1000 watt JL was $1000 and the Sony was $239. CEA2006 stopped that type of manufacturer marketing.

I wouldn't call it marketing hype. And I think most people miss the original intent of the standard (see Julian's comments above). It was meant to provide a standard by which amplifier measurements were to be conducted and the results/performance reported and advertised in order to provide an equal basis of comparison. It wasn't meant to "prove" what the delivered power in your vehicle would be (i.e. with less than 14.4V), it wasn't meant to indicate what level of distortion was audible, etc. But when you had some amps rated at 12.5V @ 1% THD and other amps rated at 17V @ 5% THD, or listing "max" power figures only, it was more difficult and confusing for customers to make an informed decision because all they would look at was the wattage amount and not how that wattage was determined. The CEA-2006 standard provided a standard basis of comparison by identifying a specific set of test conditions by which compliant amplifiers are measured and rated. The only reason 14.4V was chosen was because that was the only way headunit manufacturer's would agree to use the standard. Is it perfect? No. But it might be better than no testing standard at all. Is it going to be precisely indicative of the performance in your car? Well no, but non-CEA-2006 rating methods don't necessarily provide that information either. Is it possible to cheat? Sure, but who says the non-CEA-2006 guys aren't lying and/or cheating too? Is it "marketing hype"? Not really, it provides and equal basis for comparing two amplifiers which is something the industry didn't have previously. Logically speaking it has nothing to do with marketing as it's simply a test methodology that provides an equal basis for comparison. At some point we could call all amplifier ratings "marketing hype" in some manor. That said I do understand why some manufacturer's chose not to participate. But I think most consumers don't actually understand the intent of the standard. It was never about marketing or the performance itself, it was about providing a level playing field by standardizing testing methods. Like I said, it's not perfect (really, what standards are?) and I do understand the issues with it, but atleast understand what it's intentions were and were not.

Haha. Thanks guys. I went to the interview ans got the job! Ill be working at Sunoco full service gas station. Ill ne pumping gas, checking oil, and tire pressure. And ill ne making $350/week after taxes! Not too shabby for me. my build will come alot sooner now. Vids of the DCON tomorrow! Im gonna wait to carpet it. Until I get it playing how I want it. Im VERY impressed by the DCON.

This is a transmission line enclosure for a RF T0 10" subwoofer. The line is tuned to 40hz, and poly-fill will be added to drop the tuning and tame resonances if needed. Dimensions: 32"x12"x12" Tuning: 40hz

CEA compliant is marketing hype.

For what it's worth..that has to deal with the inductive heating of the cheap ass amps that have no filtering on the output stage of the operating frequency of the fets... It does inductively heat the tinsel leads..and it does make them glow. hence: rev limiter analogy, not exactly dipshitesque.

I need a blow job.

Before anyone recommends anything it'd be good to know what you don't like about what you currently have or what could be improved. Otherwise you are just going to either get subjective responses of what people have or people e-gurgitating things they've read. From a bunch of weasels with internet boners. Far from a good solution for this guys needs from what he has told us. I'd rather have the D3.

Haha I thought the same thing when I read the title. Then I saw the author and thought "Of course you do!!"

hmmmmm..... i say buy a vip membership at the local salvage yard if you do... the repetitive purchasing of interior parts and pieces will become salty, lets not start talking windshield issue...lol will plans of a reinforced rood be within these goals? reinforced rood will never work... ****ROOF***** lmao

let me welcome a thought i have. 2 amps independent vs strapping. Assuming they put out the same power either way.... Strapping has as interesting feature that many people don't think about. Current. The more current that is requested, the larger the wire needs to be... The more current that a speaker accepts, the closer the thermal threshold is... At some point, it could melt the tinsel leads, coils, etc.. Look at what happens when comparing independent vs strapping- Let's say we have 2 1000w amps. 1000w@1ohm or 2000w strapped at 2ohm. Right off the bat.. Why is the minimum load when strapped change to 2ohm? Because most amps, when strapped, are done in SERIES. What happens when you series batteries? The ONLY thing that happens is a doubling of voltage.. All current characteristics stay the same. So how does this translate to amps? Let me show you- each 1000w independently does 33v, 33a = 999w. So if you had 1 sub, 2 amps, one on each coil, it would accept 66A to achieve 2000w! YIKES! That's not safe! What if we strapped them? Strapping would double voltage, but maintain same current output(theoretically, current will go up slightly, but not much!) IE- 2000w @2ohm = 66v, 33A.. What?!!?!?!? Yes, the same current in, but double the power! This is my take on strapping is better, ONLY AND I MEAN ONLY if it helps reduce innefficiency from thermal threshold and longevity playback(anything but burps)

Haha, do it! I wanna see high 50s

lol. yeah a girl cant tell if its 3 or 4 inches to the pussy so..........