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More times than not, BNIB equipment for sale on the forums will be opened, just not used. If you don't want open box items, ask the seller if the item is factory sealed.

I hear you. What you need to do, if you want to do something like this again, is offer it to only supporters, previous customers, or those on your newsletter list. Provide them with a link, give them a time, offer a set amount of product, and once gone, it's gone. Pretty easy, and it keeps the loyalty, not just assholes looking for a deal.

Hello, Would like to say S.Deyoung is a great guy and process of ordering from him was very easy and would recommend to anybody. I order the speakers from him and received them in a very short manner along with some adapters from Car-Speaker-Adapters. Okay, backround information, I drive this And I work here, And this is how much it cost to fill up from E, Lol okay, onward with the install. I will start off by showing step by step pics of the door panel removal procedure and then will post a thorough procedure on ExplorerForum. Okay, again, sorry if I'm taking up too much space, but I hopefully somebody could benefit from seeing the process I took as theres really not any information out there regarding fourth gen Explorers. Ok, now forward with the speaker installation. Here is the stock, IDK I had a tweeter in there Even had its own enclosure! lol Heres a comparison from above And a view of the Kulo Big S/O to Car-Speaker-Adapters. Although I broke the other one, I was still able to use it lol. But in this image, you can see I went at it with a shaver thing-a-ma-jober lol. The basket was too big Check THAT OUT! Okay, this is the last shot. So overall, I am very pleased with the way these sound! Just really need to apply an amp for them. I see a new 50.4 is in the works which looks great so that may be an option. But so far, just off of my stock HU these sound pretty damn good. This is my first product purchase since my last system was stolen and joining the SSA family and would buy anything from them again. So with my gratitude satisfaction, I decided to do this, Tell me what you guys think!!!

I'm thinking of painting the box white and drawing some designs with a big black ink pen or making some stencils and spray painting them on. Just something out of the ordinary, a bit artsy perhaps. <--Me when I'm driving down the road.

That is great to hear. How do you like the sound (not output just sound) compared to the Xcon's? The xcons were in a large ported setup, and the icon is in a smaller sealed setup, so aside from output it's still not quite a fair comparison in terms of SQ, but any way: Listen to this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9u5egl8vt64 The icon is outstanding, at max volume it was able to nail every beat from the above without any sound of stressing. Played a bunch of Cake, Evanescence, Tool, and a few bass heavy songs. My stereo is finally complete, killer front stage, and slightly excessive bass with the utmost realistic sound. My car sounds like theirs tiny people playing instruments on my dash. I'm extremely pleased right now.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/categories/Sub-Woofers/Incriminator-Audio/Warden/ Click that link to read about, and to buy a Warden.

i figured id take this opportunity to go ahead and make a thread for all my zcon videos and updates to the system instead of making new ones every time. ill start with my unboxing video and go from there.... Enjoy! I DO APOLOGIZE FOR THE SHITTY CAMERA AND SOUND UNBOXING: OLDER: CURRENT:

Just a picture. Be glad you missed it!

Yesterday afternoon, we came back to this build. Don took some quick photo's / short video, that I hope he has some time to post up later. We 'deadened' the roof with only 12 CLD tiles, and added one layer of Thinsulate between the head liner and the CLD. It was a little tricky getting the single piece headliner out, and I broke one seat belt mounting cover, but over all, it went much smoother then I expected. The major obstacle that we ran into was the stock recycled foam that was adhered to the underside of the roof with liberal amounts of adhesive. Luckily Don had some mineral spirits and a few plastic blades, and with some determination we were able to get 95% of it off. Overall, as I said to Don, it is tricky to focus on something that is not there anymore, as in the noise that has either been dampened or isolated out. This project was a decent amount of work to treat the whole car, and quite a learning process along the way, but wow it was worth it. I really got to know my little car quite well and there were lots of little things that made me like it even more. From the best I can remember, the difference between the work we did on this little economy go-cart compared to the stock dampening on my old 2-door Panzer, the sound isolation is VERY close and dampening is equal. That is really surprising when it comes to the rolling vault I used to drive. Now, if you sit in the car, engine off, and shut the door, the thud is very solid and reassuring along with once you are sitting still, you can hear the friction of the air as you breathe. That is how well the isolation is now from the outside. The Thinsulate was much easier to work with then I had imagined, and it compressed very nicely into the space provided, with the headliner fitting back up pretty nicely (outside of me steering the rear a tiny bit off). Not to mention, the cabin warmed up quite quickly today compared to normal. What is quite surprising, is that there is no visual clue to all the work done to the car, outside of a tiny bit of CLD tile I need to trim from under the rear hatch cover that is peaking out. Quite remarkable really when you think about how much material was added and how much of the car was effected. CLD/CCF/MLV over the entire floor, firewall, doors and hatch, with CLD and Thinsulate on the roof, leaving only the front quarter panels and the hood untouched. Total collective weight is not much considering the amount of surface covered and treated. I owe a massive thank you to Don of Sound Deadener Showdown for his time and assistance in this build, I really learned a great deal, and I feel I have a much better grasp on the basic functions and ideals behind the madness. Yes, I know I had an advantage of being able to scoot right over to the source, but there are not many other audio people in my area. So I can speak first hand on this system/method that SDS provides, as I know from actual experience that we transformed a thinly skinned, very light weight car, into matching (and in some spots surpassing) the dampening/deadening/isolation performance of a very solid, heavy gauge steel German luxury 2-door. This is with out a doubt, the quietest Mazda P5 in existence.

I don't think you'll notice any issues with the 3" aero, but bump it up to 1.5ft^3 and a full length 4" aero to get a 34hz tuning and you'll notice a difference in output.

Its not the leads, I haven't had a problem with any of the 5 other amps tested. It also goes haywire when the sub is connected, I can tell by the way the sub is moving. Don't want to jack the mans threads though, it was more of an example of other amps having the same problem of not being able to measure the outputs.

No. Honest. I don't know why people think high output capable systems have to disregard basic audio principles. I won't deny that the craftsmanship side of the install looks excellent. System design and layout could be significantly improved. And then less knowledgeable members see these types of high quality craftsmanship installs and try to emulate them, if not in quality then in design, when the application of acoustic principles within the system is lacking.

NSFW? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKfl94x3ptg&hd=1

Is this a chat or a build log ?

One word: Loud. About it.

30: Side impact beam before the Extruded Butyl Rope (EBR): 31: Side impact beam after little pieces of Extruded Butyl Rope pushed down between the beam and the outer door skin (this little amount made a very noticeable change in the door resonance, very smart application): 32: Small strips of plastic to cover the EBR as it stays sticky forever and will pick up dirt and grime: 33,34,35: Making templates of MLV for the door's: 36: Little blue Mazda inside the SDS Headquarters install bay: 37: Cut door skin MLV templates:

22,23: Start of front floor area (as you can see, much less CLD then expected): 24: Test fitting spare tire in well: 25: Continuation of front floor area: 26: Bad-ass spare tire sub woofer enclosure: 27: More up front, showing some of the obstacles we were dealing with: 28: Front passenger door pre-tear down: 29: Torn down inner door:

8: Application of CLD tiles on hatch floor: 9,10,11: Forming, shaping, cutting, planning of MLV on hatch floor: 12: Formed and removable hatch floor MLV: 13: CCF underneath MLV layer: 14,15: Me cutting MLV moving forward on the floor: 16,17,18,19,20,21: Completed hatch floor (this was the single most time consuming part of the install:

No. Honest. I don't know why people think high output capable systems have to disregard basic audio principles. I won't deny that the craftsmanship side of the install looks excellent. System design and layout could be significantly improved. And then less knowledgeable members see these types of high quality craftsmanship installs and try to emulate them, if not in quality then in design, when the application of acoustic principles within the system is lacking. I totally agree..

DUH! the KW SPECIAL!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! It worked for his style but not mine!

Crescendo=THE shit best amp for the money SHITS on AQ because it is the same amp of aq just Hella cheaper!