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Screw all this comparison bs... give me a few sacks of taters some wire and nails. In all reality most batteries are very much alike its a battery for shit sakes. Only so many ways to slice an apple as it is to build a battery. Mind you some are of a little higher quality but is another 150 bucks worth that .2v you might get with that xs over say a shuriken battery? Not to me the least bit id rather have a better alternator.

So, you wanna switch to woofer that are WAYYY shittier just so you "max them out"?

I am using Dayton Audio BR-1 kit Dayton Audio BR-1 kit and Dayton Audio DTA-100a amplifier. I will be using these as "computer" speakers. This is not what they are designed for but I am sure that I will be very happy with them. I feel that Dayton Audio is a value leader with all of it's products and is often overlooked. The kit comes with : Two Dayton Audio DC160-8 6-1/2" woofers Two Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" silk dome tweeters Two crossover boards Two 47 µF non-polarized capacitors Two Dayton Audio 0.1 µF by-pass capacitors Two 8 ohm 10W resistors Two 1.8 mH 18 AWG air core inductors Four Dayton Audio 6.2 µF polypropylene capacitors Two 4 ohm 5W resistors Two 10 ohm 5W resistors Two 0.5 mH 20 AWG air core inductors One 8 ft. 16 AWG speaker wire Twenty-four .205" (16-14 AWG) female disconnects Two 24" x 18" sheets of acoustic foam, 1-1/2" thick Twenty-two #6 x 3/4" Phillips pan head screws Acoustic foam Dayton Audio BR-1CAB cabinets Dayton Audio DTA-100a amplifier Driver components Crossover components Cabinets

Crossover mounted in enclosure. Acoustic foam mounted in enclosure I used the supplied butyl rubber around the 6.5" as a gasket. Drivers mounted in the enclosure My desk top was too small for these cabinets. I cut a new desk top out of 0.75" MDF I need to finish the desk top. I am probably going to paint it.

Assembly took about 4 hours. Assembly is not complicated and was designed for a beginner. The instruction manual is extremely informational and well written. There are also two videos posted on parts-express to help guide you through assembly. I found the videos to be helpful. The author also discusses how to solder for those that never have. I did not have any problems with the assembly. All pieces needed are included. The crossovers are designed to keep the cost low and to achieve an overall flat response. The manual discusses the crossover design in depth. The cabinets are made of 5/8" MDF and are 0.52^3ft tuned to 38hz. The fit and finish is very good. As a type, I have listened to these speakers for less than four hours. The imaging of this set is amazing. Treble and midrange is very good. Bass response is definitley lacking. These will sound best along with a separate subwoofer. The Dayton Audio DTA-100a is 50wx2. As computer speakers this power works well. If I was to use them as bookshelf speakers I would probably power them with a 75-100w amplifier. I do have two Exodus Anarchy 6.5 sitting around. I plan on building some sort of compact bandpass enclosure for them powered by a Dayton Audio SA240-B amplifier.

I also wouldn't necessarily recommend an MS8 for a 1st time active user either. With everything being done behind the scenes in my opinion it takes a little bit of preexisting knowledge to understand why the MS8 does what it does, especially when results are less stellar than expected. I think for someone learning the ins and outs of tuning it's better to see the numbers on the display and be in control of what is changing, that way when the sound goes from good to bad or bad to good they hopefully gain an understanding of why a certain change had the result it did. I miss my H701 for that very fact.....when something doesn't turn out exactly right with the MS8 it takes a bit of figuring out why I didn't get the result I expected, and how to fix it.

Awesome Vid

idk some one gave me a negative! why!?!?!?! i dont care just wana know why.

Hahah o well I really hate that show! And I get what your saying cheezy makes scene.

weird cuz i dont think i post or say anything ignorant lately unless im drunk... what was the windex thing about? i dont get it.

Why did I get a neg1 on my post ??? I do not run those batteries ... I just thought it was fun to see the smoke ...

who's retarded brothers are tim and eric? for you know dont know what that is its a show on adult swim that takes up time between GOOD SHOWS. i hate them soooooo bad i would pay to have them fucked with aids infested horses then alot of other fucjed up shit!....here is a clip...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9sJFdzg_AY

I currently have a passive front component set of Focal's on a Linear Power 1502 with TIPS mods. I'm looking at going active and louder up front. I currently have a BTL N2 15 and another on the way. I can start to drown out the fronts now so adding another sub will definitely drown them out. I have not set my mind up on what tweeters and mids to use. I have door pods already for 6.5 mids and tweeters. I have a small SUV...Mercury Mariner so adding more front speakers is not an option. This is a daily driver and I will rewire the fronts with larger wire when I redo and go active. I'm looking into the Zed amp 100x4 and wondering if anyone has any experience with it. If anyone has any other suggestions for amps or speakers let me know as well.

Only so they would die a slow painful death knowing they hve been fucked by a horse

How experienced in audio setup and installation are you? Reason I ask is because the MiniDSP isn't as plug-n-play as a car audio specific processor. Last I knew there are some specific considerations to installing a MiniDSP in a car environment, such as it not being properly isolated so without the correct installation there was a high risk of noise and such. If this is your first go-round with active and you are less experienced with electronics in general, it's probably not a great first processor. The initial cost of the MiniDSP appears low, but by the time you factor everything in cost wise (casing, isolation, etc) it ends up being pretty equivalent in cost to a lot of used car audio specific processors. Also, I'm not sure if there is a time delay for the audio to route through the MiniDSP's processing. If there is, then in order to run a 2-way active front stage + subwoofer you would need atleast 5 channels of processing so that all of the audio system was running through the processor, which means you would need either two 4-channels or the 8-channel. So, long story short.....depending on your experience and skill level, you very well may be better off to look at car audio specific products.

Both batteries were brand new out of the boxes and we place on an intelicharger and charged together for 24 hours then let sit for an hour before placed on the load tester. I only had the phone to record so I did not have a timer but did it with the recording timer on the phone the XS batt goes for 30seconds and I forgot to time the juicebox so its almost 50seconds on the load test! Please check out our FORUM http://www.audioaddicts.net/forum/index.php?/forum/29-juicebox-battery/