Leaderboard

Your have a myriad of options as to what final impedance you can wire to. You can run any impedance of similar drivers in a common enclosure. If one driver gets 25 watts and the other 3 get 725 watts, it doesn't matter. They all work together above enclosure resonance. The main problem with this is overall efficiency. You'll never match the power between subs close enough to operate at optimal efficiency. But again, you can't hurt anything by doing this. My advice would be to get rid of a pair and/or recone them to match. All else being equal, this will more than likely give you the best results.

I use a 1/2 inch steel rod and a hammer to indent the fire wall or floor. I then double check the opposite side to make sure I won't hit any wires or brake booster, ect. The indention will help the drill bit from walking also. I use a stepped drill bit to drill my holes, then insert a gromet and caulk the hole after the wire is ran. If you use split loom to cover the wire do not run it all the way through the hole into the cab because water can run between the loom and cable and go into the cab.

Kerfing 101- UNDER CONSTRUCTION What is Kerfing? “Kerf” by definition means “width of a saw cut”. This is the width of the actual saw tooth itself as opposed to the width of the blade as a saw tooth flares out and away from a blade. “Kerfing” is a term that many woodworkers have adopted to define the process of making several cuts within a piece of wood to achieve the removal of material. Often this removal of material will allow one to then bend the wood stock making a nice professional and appealing curve that can be incorporated into the project. Kerfing and Car Audio: What can Kerfing do for you in your quest of car audio domination? Well first of all it is important to note that in any ported subwoofer box hard corners are the devil. They do not allow efficient air flow which can result in less output and more port noise. Kerfing your port will allow you to maximize efficiency and create the most non-turbulent flow for the air moving in and out of the enclosure. Secondly Kerfing can be used to make an enclosure or other part of your build more appealing to the eye. You could use it for corners of an amp rack, or to make a custom arm rest more smooth. Kerfing is a process you need to learn to take your builds to the next level. What you need: This is outlined in the video but you will need the following (* means you don’t HAVE to have it but it is recommended): Circular Saw (Or table saw but the process will differ from the video) Disclaimer: My Saw blade is 1/8” wide. I recommend the same width! T-Square (Or table saw fence) MDF Wood Glue Safety Glasses Tape Measure Marker/Pencil Clamps Fiberglass Resin* Fiberglass Chop Mat* Body Filler* Sand Paper* The steps: Watch the video! Once the kerfed section is made load it up with wood glue and clamp it in place. Finish with fiberglass resin and chop mat and for that added professional touch apply body filler to the area and sand! The Math: I go through the math in the video but in case you are having a hard time understanding this should help. Please note this is used for slot porting applications so when I reference “diameter” I am NOT talking about a circular port, I am talking about the curve of the kerf if you were to look at it along its cross section. See the photo below: Step 1: Determine the diameter of your curve. Note I said “Diameter NOT radius” if you have your radius just multiply it by 2 and you now have your diameter). Step 2: Find the circumference of a circle using this diameter. The equation is: Step 3: You should now have a value for your circumference. Take this value and divide by 4 for a 90 degree turn or 2 for a 180 degree turn, this will give you the “length of kerf”. Step 4: Record your value for the length of the kerf. This is how much material along your mdf “linearly” must be used to make your curved kerfed section. This is the value you want to “mark off’ for your kerf on the mdf. (Note that this method can also be used to find the “length” of this part of your port so that you can build your port to the target tuning length. Instead of using the diameter of your kerf arc, use the diameter of the arc that is the centerline of the port). Step 5: Now that you have marked off where your kerf will be on the mdf you are going to take your “length of kerf value” and divide it by 12. This will give you your length between cuts. Now in the video I show a trick for making these divisions perfect. That way if your value is something like .6384 you don’t have to guess on a tape measure. My method is also much faster as it doesn’t require this steps math. Once you have marked out all the distances between cuts you can proceed with cutting and making your kerfs! Other notes: These are other notes that have been brought up on other forums and I feel are helpful. I made the mistake of wearing gloves in the video. Never wear gloves with rotary tools! It is not recommended to apply screws in the kerfed section of the mdf, it will likely split, instead use clamps (or heavy objects) and wood glue. If you are blade in not 1/8 you will need to do some math to determine how many cuts to make. I generally remove an inch and a half of material, so if your blade is smaller, more cuts, wider, less cuts. Note that fewer cuts will lead to a rougher curve and more a smoother curve but with less strength. Pictures: Design of an enclosure using a Kerfed Port: Box with Kerfed Port: (Picture to come) Box with kerfed port and kerfed exit of port: (Picture to come) Made this video to show how to Kerf, enjoy!

It still has to go through the frame and if cable is plentiful I'd rather see a run of negative too. See hardcore Street A and B cars...they all have both ground and positive ran directly...

Sexy time ?

It really depends on how much space you're willing to dedicate then. A 15" will typically (not always, but typically) require a larger enclosure than a 10" subwoofer. If you're looking for punchy bass, you're likely going to be best off with a sealed enclosure that's on the small side of the design parameters or a ported enclosure that has a decent output in the upper-double digits. A sealed enclosure will offer better transient response (not a big deal with rap, so don't worry about it), but going on the small side will sacrifice low-frequency output and overall output will be lacking compared to a ported enclosure. A ported enclosure will require more planning during the design process as you'll need a port large enough that it won't generate port noise and a larger port will require a larger enclosure to attain the same tuning. The downside is that increasing the size of the enclosure will increase the output at low frequencies and decrease the peak in the higher frequencies, which will reduce the "punchiness" of the system, so you'll need to find the correct balance to suit your tastes. It also depends on what subs you're comparing as you may be comparing a low Xmax 15" to a high Xmax 10", in which case the 10" may have a greater displacement than the 15".

It entirely depends on what drivers you are actually considering. If you are able to find a 15" driver within your budget that meets your performance, space and build quality objectives, I would choose the higher displacement potential of the 15" driver 100% of the time. Also, there's nothing more "punchy" about a 10" driver.

4x AQ 18" HDC's in a 4th order BP with adjustable port. Each sub is seeing 2.75ft^3 sealed and 5ft^3 ported. The port is removable and can easily be rebuilt for other tunings and port sizes if desired. This would make it easy to have a higher spl tuning for burps and a smaller, lower tuned port for some ferocious low-end output. The box is picture with a 46hz port.

x series 15 is only 139 bucks https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154ef9e4834daad/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0045_X/product_overview.shopscript

I agree with the comments above. Your money is better spent on a good quality sub right off the bat. Also, just because there's 1200 watts on tap doesn't mean you need to use that much power to get great output. You can pick up an SSA DCON 10 for $115 with a single 4 ohm coil and it will do you very well on output while sounding great. Plus it will be easier on the amp and your electrical system. A 10" Fi SSD would be a great choice as well except for the fact that when shipping gets added it will be a little over your $200 budget but well worth every penny.

Stupid is as stupid does, and your analogy is useless and pointless, if the user is silly enough to over power the speakers then he gets exactly what he deserves. Undistorted music is a far superior route to go than to have distortion and blowing equipment cause your pushing a H/U or amplifier more then it should be to achieve the same output as a more powerful amplifier, the DD 1 tells you at what point you can push your equipment to reach distortion and what you as the user do with it is your choice.

Wow. If that happened now I would buy as many as I could afford to! I believe this was the email he sent out in 05. COMPANY MODEL PWR/CH 4ohm PWR/CH 2ohm QTY PRICE LANZAR 2200 100W X 2 200W X 2 1 $89.00 USED COMPANY MODEL PWR/CH 4ohm PWR/CH 2ohm QTY PRICE CRUNCH CR50HC 200w x 2* 340w x 2 14 $149.00 680w x 1 bridged into 4 ohm These CRUNCH amps have been modified to be non high current types and now they are equal to the CRUNCH 400 which used the same printed circuit card *Actual power under test is 241 watts/channel at 4 ohm at 12v Great for sub amp BUT requires an external crossover THESE BOSS AMPLIFIERS WERE MADE IN THE USA AND ARE ALL BRAND NEW. THE POWER SUPPLIES AND AMPLIFIERS ARE THE SAME AS THE USACOUSTICS. SINCE ZED AUDIO DESIGNED AND BUILT THEM THEY ARE OF THE SAME QUALITY AS THE USACOUSTICS. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE PREAMPLIFIER FEATURES AND OF COURSE THE CHASSIS. BOSS C455 85w x 2 85w x 2 1 $42 BOSS C555 110w x 2 110w x 2 1 $49 BOSS C705 150w x 2 170w x 2 1 $52 BOSS C655 85w x 4 85w x 4 7 $62 SILVER BOSS C805 150w x 4 210w x 4 1 $77 BOSS C1055 175w x 4 175w x 4 6 $82 SILVER BOSS C1055 175w x 4 175w x 4 21 $82 WHITE BOSS C755 210w x 4 210w x 4 2 $72 WHITE BOSS H265 60w x 2 60w x 2 1 $45 BOSS H565 110w x 2 110w x 2 1 $55 BOSS H665 85w x 4 95w x 4 79 $59 BOSS H965 150w x 4 250w x 4 12 $67 BOSS REV1200 180w x 4 255w x 4 1 $71 BOSS CLR40 100w x 2 100w x 2 1 $35 BOSS CLR50 125w x 2 125w x 2 1 $39 BOSS CLR70 150w x 2 150w x 2 2 $45 BOSS CLR90 75w x 4+150w x1 1 $85 ON ALL THE BOSS AMPS (CHAOS, HAVOC AND CLR SERIES) THE RATINGS SHOWN ABOVE IS WHAT IS PRINTED IN THE MANUALS. SINCE I DESIGNED THESE AMPS I KNOW THAT THE ACTUAL CONTINUOUS POWER RATINGS ARE APPROXIMATELY 50% OF THE ABOVE FIGURES. USACOUSTICS THSE AMPS HAVE BEEN REFURBISHED BY ZED AUDIO. WE ARE THE ORIGINAL MANUFACTURERS OF THESE AMPLIFIERS. COMPANY MODEL PWR/CH 4ohm PWR/CH 2ohm QTY PRICE USA 2300 300w x 2 450w x 2 19 $139 Grey Planet Audio Planet P1002 100w x 2 150w x 2 1 $150.00 ESX ESX 10” speaker in a bandpass box with DVC 4 ohm unit installed $75.00 AMPLIFIER INFORMATION SECTION * BOSS “CLR” 2 CHANNEL AMP HAVE LOW PASS X/OVER AND BASS + TREBLE CONTROLS * BOSS “CLR” 4 CHANNEL AMPS HAVE THE SAME AS 2 CH BUT ON EACH PAIR OF CHANNELS * BOSS 2 CH “CHAOS” AMPS HAVE LOW PASS X/OVER AND BASS BOOST AT 40Hz * BOSS 4 CH “CHAOS” AMPS HAVE LOW PASS X/OVER * BOSS 2 CH “HAVOC” AMPS HIGH AND LOW PASS X/OVERS, BASS + TREBLE * BOSS 4 CH “HAVOC” AMPS HIGH AND LOW PASS X/OVERS, BASS USA 2300 HAS LOW PASS X/OVER AND BASS BOOST

ZED Audio makes a fantastic amplifier, US made too.

They don't want to build amps if they can't be built in the US, as of right now its impossible.