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Most people buying a woofer like an SA want a ported box sound. They work well sealed in 10s, 12s, and 15s in an objective sense but I rarely recommend it as most people will end up wanting more output.

He isn't happy unless he goes stupid over the top with any and everything he does/build. I say he needs to find a buddy that is a mechanic to do the brake work though......he's gettin graped!

Have you ever gone to a restaurant, and when the waiter asked for your order, you said: "I want food."

Short and intense workout today, only did dips, bent over rows and leg raises. And 30 minutes total mashing the bike to and from the gym. Freaking beat !

Yep, you missed it. Seems like somebody forgot to put chlorine in the gene pool and retards are out of control..

Otherwise, FIVE HOUR ENERGY! I have buzz saw and burn instead.

Nice man! I am doing 3 15's in a 02 tahoe. The Sa's should be a nice upgrade from the Cvr's.

hey Stefan, just ChiLL bro. i understand what your saying completelly. i just want to kick back and give you a little bit of what i'm feeling ATM. it's doesn't even need comments, if you don't like it just chill and pass it by. i just want to live life with a smile

I'm thirsty.

I was all about making one last loud build, but once I sealed them up I was very suprised at how musical they were. Been back inforth about going smaller, but I love how they sound. what size box? *please don't make me look Big real Big! Right around 12 cubes. With pollyfill. 150oz I think. As in 6 each? That would definitely wake up the bottom end the natural way. Yes.

An amp is an amp if it isn't a piece of shit.

I was all about making one last loud build, but once I sealed them up I was very suprised at how musical they were. Been back inforth about going smaller, but I love how they sound.

You even liked the comment!

I would introduce you, but she's camping out under my balls.

I love how mine sound sealed in the right sized box.

That is the 18" Xcon Sealed in 3.5cuft.

They'll go boom like so.....?

red, red, red, i choose red!! or maybe it's pink?????

lmao agreed... you need to explain more on what u want op...

You haven't been to a Walmart in Marana or South Tucson Last time I was at the one in cortaro farms really late, these gang-bangers ran into each other like old buds, did their "cool" handshakes, and called the bitches over to meet n greet. One had one more tear drop tat then the other.

Frustrating as usual.

Hard to believe I have been married for 16 years, makes me wonder what is the next phase of life to bring. My son is starting college and my daughter turns 16 in Feb. So I have about 2 years to figure out what I want to do when I grow up.

New month muhahah new maxes Military press: 195lbs Deadlift: 465lbs Bench press: 315lbs Squats: 405lbs

DubStep + The Weeknd + Ellie Groulding = WIN http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVAE2MiuTAw&feature=autoplay&list=PL249737181867AA1E&playnext=1&shuffle=12341

I haven't looked at the website, but a Qtc of .55 is not "very low". A Qtc of .577 is a standard Bessel alignment, Qtc of .5 is critically damped and has optimal transient performance. Meaning, many people throughout the world aim for a Qtc around those values. Given we are in an automobile, we don't need a Qtc of .7 as we don't need the lowest possible F3 since we have cabin gain to help fill in the bottom end. So, just from your post it doesn't appear there is anything wrong with either the TSP or the suggested enclosure volumes. The suggested enclosure volumes from any manufacturer are exactly that: suggestions. It doesn't mean you can't use the driver in a different alignment if you so choose.

A cap in series isn't a linkwitz transform. It is a highpass filter that slightly moves the response curve to the left and gives a 5th-6th order roll-off. Infinity used to do it alot in many of their speakers in the 80's and 90's. Also, did you mean 1.2uf (microfarad) or did you mean 1.2mf? (milifarad) 1.2 microfarad will roll sub of around 5Kz, 1.2 milifarad around 20Hz. Don't put a 1.2uf(!) cap in series with the woofer.... And if you are talking about a 1.5milifarad cap, good luck finding one! You'll have to put a few huge electrolytics together (but they may not handle the power) or an ass load of film caps, that will be some serious$$... A linkwitz transform will be an Eq circuit that is the inverse of the roll-off below resonance. So if you are down say 12db at 20 Hz, it introduces 12db of gain at 20Hz and so on and so on. This is normally used in a sealed alignment that operates entirely under resonance. It takes an ass-load of power to get loud low with it also... It is an active circuit before the amplifier. I used a linkwitz transform with one of my XXX 18s in a .5ft3 sealed alignment with 2.5 KW. It worked OK, but you loose alot of output compared to a more efficient, larger alignment...

I'll make it bigger for you too to make sure that you can see it.. Consdiering a 20 dollar hunk of neo previously is now 114 dollars..I wouldn't be bitching if I were you. It's still cheaper then anybody else on the market, you can go pay 1800 dollars for a Z series woofer if you would like...that's known as raping the consumer. The price is only adjusted to the cost of materials going up..which EVERYTHING has gone up. We ate it for quite some time while I was there and the reason was waiting until the SP4 and Team versions of the subs were available, or near available. If you don't like it..it's as simple as not buying it. Go pay 1800 dollars for the Z series woofer or 1000-1200 dollars for the DC neo woofer. Also, To the "You need to sell at OEM prices" argument. Absolutely not. OEM work does not involve anywhere near as much work as the Fi product line does. OEM clients buy hundreds of speakers at a time and they are all the same which makes it easy to build and do. Margins are VERY VERY VERY slim doing OEM work in the USA so you have to sell hundreds and hundreds of them in order to make a dollar.. I don't know about you, but I don't think you would like to bust your ass for 10 hours a day and walk home with 50 bucks in your pocket. That doesn't exactly pay the bills and earn you a living. (and no, i don't work there any longer) troll on.

I answered you..go read. If you do not like the answer, i suggest you ask the yard gnomes...they have all the answers. The staff can give you a vacation if you would like to continue trolling as I gave you the answer to your question...if you're unable to comprehend it..that's not my fault.

looks like your life is going to be boring from here on out because any person with some sense would know there is nothing left to contribute to your trolling.. yet you wait.. lol, can't do it here.. the forum as a whole isn't gullible to your childish games. Any person with common sense would contact the company directly if they truly wanted to know something rather than beat around the bush. That's why many companies frown upon customers who blow things out of proportion when something may not be right with their product once it's delivered by posting extremist comments on forums before the company even knows what's going on. From what i gathered of this thread is.. I'll steer clear of your name in threads as I get more positive information from the username Google on here. Might want to take this as a wake-up call because if you keep acting childish in places other than this forum, your car audio hobby will be all to yourself and no one will want any part of it if you're involved.

Best way is to fly first class to LV. Then go to the shop.

This is why I never come to this forum, you bash peoples post and yet yours doesn't include one shot at a solution. His subs likely are doing around a 140, yet he has stock speakers on a sub par deck? An amp and speakers wouldn't be a bad investment. And since decks can "handle" max volume, go turn up your bass, treble, mid and all of the other settings on max, turn it up all the way on stock HU power and get back to me how it sounds. Go play in traffic OP either go do some of the suggestions on this thread or talk to the shop.

Because if it turns off only on the "high" bass songs at high volumes it could mean on that "extra" bass it's clipping thus creating heat, and turning itself off... I know Kenwoods have heat problems.. How about you make a post helping the kid rather than trolling me on my reasoning. i should note that i usually only listen to rap and most of my music is all lows, and quite bassy. i listen to wayne jeezy gorilla zoe, etc etc. i also have felt my deck get pretty warm so i can see where hes comin from on that but at the same time its done it with bass at 0 and no boost on eq or on the deck and -5 treb and - 5 mid, with no low setting. Try it even lower and get back to us