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Well Travis is getting a new amp.....that way no mistake can be made, no middle problems if something were to happen in a re-boarding process. It will be an A stock brand new amp, that has been on our bench for a few weeks running every speaker setup under the rainbow, currently a single tower running bridged at 2 ohms both channels. Using all HPF combos, and bandpass too,,,,,we replaced the amp with travis' 1100.4 JUST the same way. After about 3 hours of play time, its gotten fairly warm, as it definitely should be running at 1 ohm a channel, and its working as it should. So we've tried to find the problem, multiple times, the only thing we've seen could be a possible cause was a good sized dent on the heatsink as if it was dropped before. Other then that, hopefully the new 1100.4 recieved works as should, otherwise must be an install problem Thanks for the understanding.

it's tea time somewhere...

Because I was in a rush and didn't really care about the final product I didn't take much time to make these look nice. I just wanted to test the waters of working with resin really. I only put about 2 layers on everything, but I'm fairly happy with them. If I took another day or so on them I think they would have been even better. Don't like the wavey edges, but those are on the bottom so you can't see them while sitting in the car anyways.

Thanx brother! I'm glad the ball is rolling on this thing again. I'm really looking forward to showing it off at some of the later shows this year. I think anyone that listens to it is going to completely flip when they find it's only a single 10. On that note, wire runs are completed and it's time to start building the amp rack. Here's the power wires coming out of their respective holes and grommets. The angle on that part of the sheet metal will make it much easier to get the wires and carpet to lay down as they should. Here's the wires coming up to the fuse holders. Yes, there's a bit of excess there, but that's only so I have the give/play for inserting the fuse. Both wires go down in between the fender well and AC lines and follow the frame back to the point where they come up through the sheet metal. These trucks really make that part much easier than I would have imagined. Here's the wires all tucked away under the carpet there. Worked out pretty good. Here's the wire bundle making it's way to the back. I went right up on the wall/rear fender well of the truck so it will all hide nicely under that part of the interior. Finally, I chose this mounting location for the remote gain knob for two reasons. One, it keeps it hidden so that strange fingers aren't tempted to play with it. Two, that little LED is brighter than hell and I couldn't find a good location anywhere else that it wouldn't be shining right up at me. It should work out pretty good there tho. AND MY PARTNER IN CRIME!!! My son Austin, who some may remember, recognize from the pictures of the build of the enclosure for the van. He's got a great deal of interest in all this stuff and the older he gets, the more he's interested and understanding everything I explain to him as we're doing this. I had him taking the dash apart to get to the wires on the HU to run the RCA's and remote power wire, had him helping me with the remote gain knob, and he helped run the power wires up to the engine compartment. He's a hell of helper to have!

I am starting a build for a friend of mine. His goals are a decent amount of bass in a removable package. This will be installed in late model 4-runner. After talking with Brian (BKOLFO4) about some different single driver solutions that would have good output he suggested a single Mayhem 15, and well, kind of going to take his word for it. As for power, I bought a single Cresendo 3500, should be plenty of power. The 4-runner has a decent factory stereo (Nav and all that crap) so we wanted to keep what we could. I picked up one of the new Audio Control LC2i: http://www.audiocont...ol----LC2i.html because I am sick of PAC Trunk LOCs. They are POS's that are nothing but a headache. I only say this because I have installed about 10 of them. The LC2i also has a cool ciruit that defeats the factory compression of bass at higher levels... And remote turn on triggered by signal sense... Way cool. He also bought a 250 amp alt and plenty of 1/0 and a stout battery. So good there... Now, as for the box. This presents a few problems. It has to be small enough to fit behind the rear seat and we want to keep it below the window line. Brian suggested around 4ft3, I am going to go with that. A 30Hz tuning should work pretty good. Woofer and vent will fire back. 1.5" MDF construction, heavily braced. Inside will be heavily coated with Cascade Quiet Coat (I have 5 gallons left over) and outside will be proffesionally Line-X'd. Grill be solid PA style, steel with perforated holes and powder coated black. Will cover the entire back of the enclosure, flush with the cabinet. Now, if there is one thing I hate, it is mounted electronics to the enclosure. But with this install, everything needed to be removable. So the amp and LC2i will be mounted to the front of the enclosure (against the back seat) with these isolation devices: http://www.zorotools...e_Shopping_Feed I am going to countersink them into the cabinet about 3/8" of an inch, so they won't be very visible. I did a little research, these should help alot in the range of vibrations the enclosure will try and transfer to the amp. Since the amp is mounted verticle, I made sure the shear rating was adequate, didn't want them sagging over time. I'll use 6 on the amp and 4 on the LC2i. They will be attached to the cabinet with T-nuts from the inside via studs with LocTite. As for making everything removable quick via electrical connection, I am going with a single 5 pin Neutrik XLR: http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=092-328 for signal and 1/0 breakaways for power: http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=263-112 Nice thing is, for signal, I will use some 18/4 architechual cable with a nice braided jacket placed over it. It will look good and be simple and clean. There will only be the single break-away power connector and the single signal connector going to the box. 2 connections and your done... Anyway, just waiting on the Mayhem right now, I'll probably start the box in a week or so. I'll post pics as the build progresses. -Mike

I'm in the process of completely changing the crx's build so I decided to start a new build log. The old one can be found here: http://www.soundsolu...1-honda-crx-si/ The last thing I did in the build was add the new second amp rack with the LEDs under both amps (which I have yet to get a decent photo of, Sefugi). From there I was just so used to everything and was starting to compete in some comps and with a local in town. First thing that needed to be done was a new front stage, again. Pre ordered the Sundown Audio Neo Pro 6.5" mids with some infinity tweets. Found a great deal on an Alpine 9887 and grabbed that up quick. Before: After: Before: After:

I am really curious as to who likes this chick. Not my cup of tea at all....

And she is drinking. I'm in love.

I am running 2 SA-12's of an SAX-1200D in a 2001 Ford Expedition. My back hatch and doors were rattling pretty bad. Got a hold of Don for 40 CLD tiles. From ordering to getting it to my house took about 5 days. I did the back hatch and two front doors, did 25% coverage and the difference is really noticable. Great product and easy guy to deal with. I will definitely buy from him again!!!! I used only 14 of the tiles and my truck sounds a lot better, I will do the other two doors next weekend.

I'm pretty disappointed in AT. Feel free to post that everywhere.

I liked both posts, but want to see it again. Third times the charm?

I also made a $40 order to Fastenal. All hardware will be black oxide, including the washers. I ordered specific fasters for each application so it will look real nice when finished... I am heading to San Diego for work next week, will get more done when I get back...

Can I get All My fellow IAK Members to click on the Link below and Like it? Thanks Guys - Mike (Team IAK) http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=256270531149875&set=a.256116361165292.51088.223379984438930&type=1&theater

Brad, the classifieds section only works when it wants to. We've been letting people post in OT if they can not get the correct system to work. This has been brough up many times and nothing's been done about it, so they really have no other option.

After getting this all installed I lost a channel on the 100.4 so I'm only able to run 1 tweet with the other one broken anyways. Started having some real alt belt slip issues. The 3 ribbed belt wasn't cutting it at all. Did some research and found out that some new civics had 4 ribs on their belts. Found a D16y8 crankshaft pulley for sale and ordered that. As soon as that was put on my problems have gone out the window. I've had to tighten the alt once since then, but it was well worth the money to upgrade. Along with all of this i now have about 1/4" to 1/2" of play on my adjustment bracket, which I didn't have before somehow. Win-win.

The tweeters that I got. Already blew one up from playing with xover points too low. Lessoned learned. Replaced the wire in the sub box as well. I wanted longer runs to be able to zip tie them to the bracing to prevent it all from dangling around in there. Got some home theater cable I found. Axiom. It's really nice, kinda' spendy, but then again it's OFC so I'm happy with it. I was one of the first people to order Gcons. Took a little over a month to get them, but the wait was well worth it! Fiday X 12s hanging out waiting for the Gcons to arrive

Was never happy with the "pods" that I made a year or so ago. Finally decided to make some real ones real quick just to see how hard it is to do. It's really not, just takes some time. Mats from local auto shop. Along with this stuff I just used some cut up speaker grill cloth as my "glass". Stretched nicely and was held a lot of resin. Starting a base layer Making the skeleton How it looking in the car (making sure it fit and was aimed correctly)

The Dampeners. You can see where I found the larger ones... I needed to find some with a 10-24 or 10-32 thread... Jegs was the only place I found that I didn't have to order a shit-ton from... I will use 6 of them for the amp...

Be prepared - sub needs a little time to stretch out before it starts sounding really good. Notice how stiff that cone is???? Brian

Thanks man! AND You aren't kiddin', would love to see your rides and meet you and your family as well. I'm hoping to make it sometime soon. I know for a fact I'll be in Indy on Oct. 5th, maybe some sort of plans can be made for that trip? Thanx! I wouldn't have if I really had much of a choice and weren't being lazy. However, keeping them evenly spaced away from each other like I have them should pose no issues. Also, forgot one picture of the wire runs. Here's the last of the run as it comes out from the installed interior panel. Also, finally got my banner on the truck as well. Woohoo, SSA!!!!

Interesting info, this same topic was posted on ROE, Coleman shows up and while I was at the gym, some other moderator deleted the topic. Hum, definition of shady. Wow.

I would just throw it away!

That's the scary part.

It's a shame to see ANY 'sound deadener' product fail simply for the fact that someone spent the time, money, and effort to install and now clean up the mess. Whether it was installation error, bad batch, whatever, it's a shame. And I am amazed at some of the comments and things that people have said in regards to Kyle's pictures... it's amazing how heated these sound deadening threads get.

You should post this in one of the AT sub forums and see what is said. I know I will not buy this after seeing the pictures. And not using a roller will not cause this!

Two things... One, why did you not like the wire? It's pretty hard to mess up wire so curious as to what you do not like about it.. And 2, bassahaulic, some things are sold cheaper than anyone else and still perform well.. Crescendo and Audiopipe.. We may not be comparing utmost superior parts being used in some AP amps but with how the majority of users use high powered amps just for xtreme bass and burps, if it works, it works.. Proper installation will allow anyone's product to last a long time.

shit happens I guess lol anyone want to buy the rest of it I have some ofc 0g AT wire as well garbage

So you removed perfectly good product just to test another one? I could see if it were drivers or amplifiers, but who wants to do deadening more than once anyways?