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I wanted to say Thanks to Mark and LaFountain Designs for the hard work and awesome website he designed and did for me. We had a nice site for the last 4 years through someone else and wanted a change. Figured it was a good opportunity to work with Mark and since SSA and his other sites are so nice I knew I wanted to go this route. If anyone has a business and wants a new look definitely give LaFountain Designs a shot. Here is my site http://zoom-moving.com/

The advantage you have by coming to the SSA forums is; ~ massive amount of experience in practical and impractical applications ~ talking directly to industry or industry related professionals that actually have more experience then pointing to a picture in a Chinese catalog ~ scholastic and professional usage and understanding on a very precise level ~ almost distorted level of actual topical and applicable knowledge over other forums I could go on, but I would embarrass other sites more then I already am. Essentially when you have someone like Sean (///M5 an engineer with a background in acoustics and physics BTW), Mike (95Honda who has built just about everything you can imagine and then some over 2 decades), Brad (Impious who has has a far more elevated understanding of the science and design that goes into a speaker then just about anyone), shizzon (very well traveled SPL competitor/enclosure designer), Ricksi (talented enclosure designer and builder), bassaholic (Drew, a young but accomplished SPL competitor), etc, etc. etc. could keep going, ALL in the same topic trying to help out, I think it might be worth a moment to listen. Don't mind me, I just co-own a sub woofer brand.

Good amount isn't very much then... You need a reading comprehension class. It definitely was NOT about woofer size. If you understood that either you read it wrong or you are reading what the idiots type. There are a ton of people on here who would holler loud if that is what was typed. My guess is that you were probably reading something on another site where idiots run rampant.

I'm sorry, but what you've known to be true is actually wrong. Aside from slight T/S changes from say a 15" model driver to the 18" model, SQ / FR with appropriate enclosure volume should be similar aside from output.

I'm sure you did read it on a forum (though definitely NOT this one) and heard it from friends. We're just telling you that info is flat out wrong. It's an old wives tale.

We were not trying to force you to run 18"s, simply saying that they can/do sound just as good as any other speaker. Based upon your measurements, you can much more easily fit 15"s, since you only have 36" wide. I would highly recommend SSA speakers though, they have exceptional build quality, power handling, and response. And thank you for the compliment Aaron.

If you could sit in NEM's 4Runner, it would change your POV.

Because it's not a matter of opinion, it's a matter of fact. Our "opinion" is based on the physics involved. Your friends "opinion" is based on the nothing but misconceptions and untruths. That's what makes our statements (which are not opinions) different from the opinions you've heard, and what makes our statements (not opinions) more qualified than your friends and yes, more accurate as well. If you understood the physics involved you would understand why your friends "opinion" and the information you were given by them is flat out wrong. And yes, apparently our statements are significantly different than the people you've talked to as our statements are based on physics and facts and theirs simply are based on nothing but misguided and ill-informed opinions. Take any subjective experience you've had with 18" subwoofers and throw them out the window as they don't mean a thing. Seriously.

Tens of thousands of subs have been shipped like that...there's absolutely nothing wrong with it. Every now and then one will take a dive off of a belt or something and end up getting broken, in 6 years we've had less than 15 claims.

I didn't "bash" anyone-only pointed out false information that anyone with a relatively intermediate understanding of speakers would laugh their ass off at. Now if you want to hear bashing: I find it incredibly amusing that one might think of themselves as knowledgeable in the car audio realm, yet don't know what either a Low Pass Filter and Sub Sonic Filter / High Pass Filter are, or how to set them. I don't have any credentials, so you can choose to take what I say with a grain of salt. In fact I believe you shouldn't just listen to my bashing, but instead research for yourself. Maybe read a book on the fundamentals of speakers and enclosure design?

Brand new N3 12inch Dual 2 ohm with cooling option. condition 9.75 out of 10 (scuff on bottom of back plate) never installed in an enclosure (see mounting hole close up) only clamped onto an tested by Klippel analyzer $675 shipped in the lower 48. I paid 799.94 with shipping

No, he's against it in THIS SCENARIO, not all scenarios. It's very unlikely anyone would need to use a SSF and a sealed enclosure unless the user was dumping massive amounts of power into the driver.

Probably used to hearing distortion which sounds loud. In that driver in that scenario you aren't hearing the muddy confusion.

Loud is relative to the person and the install. There are a number of factors at play here that effect the output. How much sound is allowed to pass through from the rear into the cabin, what kind of sound deadening you have done, where your gains are set, enclosure integrity, strength of signal the amplifier is receiving, current supply on hand, head unit settings, cross-over settings, etc. etc.

What vehicle is it installed in? Where is the driver positioned, and facing? What amp?

I find that hard to believe.... Maybe your gains aren't set properly? I had a 12" Icon on 500 watts and it was crazy loud sealed.... But your vehicle is different so maybe it's reacting differently.... who knows. I currently have a 15" Xcon on my BC3500d @ 2ohms ... And it is plenty loud but I will eventually port it for a but more push!

I understand it is a low frequency high pass filter. Why wouldn't you use one? Because of the rolloff? Frequencies below a ported enclosure's tuning frequency cause a big increase in excursion. Enough that it's possible to exceed the suspension of the driver, and tear everything apart. So a sub sonic filter (hpf) can be used to attenuate the signal where frequencies are below the enclosure tuning, so excursion will be reduced. Example: Ported enclosure tuned to 30hz. Sine wave of 35hz with an rms amplitude of 500watts causes the cone to move 15mm. Sine wave of 20hz with an rms amplitude of 500watts causes the cone to move 25mm, and the driver's rated limit is only 20mm. Set SSF to 28hz, and the 20hz sine wave is now attenuated by 24dB , 10log(x/500)=-24dB x = 45w, and the rms amplitude would be 45watts. Now that 28hz sine wave has way less power to it, and the excursion will be reduced enough to where it's well within the driver's mechanical limits. A sealed enclosure doesn't have a port, so there isn't any point where the excursion shoots through the roof. If you were to model excursion vs frequency in a program, you would see that in a sealed box the excursion is relatively linear with less change.

1w

SSA is awesome!

Are you serious?

Between tonight and tomorrow I "get" to: -write a paper (without data by the way) to present at the International FE Software Congress (ok, that's not the name, but NAFEMS wouldn't mean anything to you guys) -write a 200 word company overview for the same -write a 150 word bio for NAFEMS, Automotive Body Congress and the Automotive Testing Expo -write a presentation outline for the ABC and ATE -write my resume And yep, I decided I needed to get drunk. I can't say nice things about myself without alcohol. I come up with nothing. Hopefully tonight I come up with a lot, lol.

Quite the contrary; assuming one has the necessary space, the largest diameter driver that can fit within a given space is generally the best choice. It provides the most peak output capabilities, generally provides better low frequency extension and with it's increased cone area provides the same output as a smaller diameter driver with less distortion.

WRONG

By who? The only way I believe that is if you couldn't fit the 18's properly.

You didn't hear that from anyone who has used 18"s in their proper enclosures designed and built properly, I can promise that much. Here ya go, SSA ZCON 18". 1750 RMS, oodles or motor force. and sexy to boot. http://store.soundso...-subwoofer.html

Chinese scam website: pics are hot-links(looks like it stole Amazon's content). Verisign/other authentication are just images and not links Checkout is not secure/encrypted. Sections of texts are copied from other sites (stole the above from another site...i was lazy) http://www.scamadvis...p.com-safe.html http://www.scaminfor...ved-c75831.html

I have 18"s, and I'm tuned to 40hz. I wish they sounded good and I could play into the upper 20Hz range...... oh wait....... They do and I can WTF......

I wish somebody would have told me 18's sound like crap.

Tore up on some woodford double oaked. I love me some good bourbon.

Possibly your Pcm is limiting your voltage and not allowing you to charge higher, an ext. regulated alt might fix your problem --its did for me. You also might need a smaller pulley if possible. But you may have to get a smaller belt size

Well, what can I say, today I take a step towards a simpler life. Out are the ways of extravagant multi-way setups and complex mix of passive and active crossover networks. In, a simple, 2-way active front stage setup. How can this be, you say. Simple, my home setup is a simple 2 way setup and is just a treat to listen to. On top of that I'm taking in some of the pointers I got while at the Heatwave show. First the tweeters, and what a better way to step things up than with budget oriented tweeters. With a little help from my jasper jig, a hole saw and a drill I came up with these. A little wood filler, sanding and a little patients, this. A little mock-up action. Dang it, this would have been a perfect chance to do that Star-Trek hand gesture. Oh well, next time. Here is the little puck mounted on the a-pillar panel. Hard wiring tweeters for the win! Hope this doesn't come back to haunt me. O_o I wasn't sure how much wire I was going to need, so I used alot. The tweeter pucks are in. A shot from the 2nd row. From the passengers seat looking at the passenger side tweeter. From the passengers seat looking at the drivers side tweeter. From the drivers seat looking at the drivers side tweeter. From the drivers seat looking at the passenger side tweeter. The ppi components and kick panels are gone now. The tweeters are powered off the US Acoustics USB-2080, and are high passed at 1500Hz 24db/oct. For mids I'm using the Mpyre Audio 6-1/2's in the doors from 1500Hz down to 63Hz. The subs take over from 63Hz down to 25hz. The sound is good. I'm surprised the tweeters are okay playing this low. Granted they don't get ear piercing loud, but they do get loud enough. I'll be honest the subs overpower everything, but at moderate listening levels everything blends in well. The staging is now up high eye level. Before the highest the staging would get would be level with the radio. The centering is still questionable. Some times it sounds centered other times it pans towards the drivers side. Not much control over that with the MS-8. I'm not sure I want to go for the center channel dance. I might have to though. The mid-bass is a little lacking. I had to do quite a bit of eq to get it back, a ridiculous amount to be honest. For now it works. I think the next step is sealing up the doors and adding some deadener.