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From the trip: Looks like today I will have time to upload a good chunk of pics

I'm very surprised no one mentioned the power handling differences. The SA uses a 2.5" coil, while the GCON uses a 3" coil. That alone should seal up any doubts as to which sub you want.

First hair trick with the sp4's. My wife could care less about audio and I finally talked her into hearing what I have been working on. lol Voltage is on the low side and when I get the other batteries in I can turn her up some but the SP4's are very impressive and much louder than my Q 18's.

Ported enclosures have the misconception that they are "Boomy", but when designed properly they can have the same sound of a sealed*** enclosure white being up to 2x louder. Sorry, edited to "sealed" from "ported"

Thanks for being a great member and supporter of SSA!

happy birthday

Your dimensions are not logical. You say ex height is 16.75" but internal height is 15"... that's impossible for 34" wood. Depth- first you say 24" deep but your port only goes back 13.75" "to the L". For one, if there is an L, we need the REST of the port length.. 2nd, that's also impossible as well.. If the port is 6" wide, then internal depth is 22.5" that means port length by itself would be 16.5" or 17.25" if you count the baffle. So, your dimensions are void of calculation.

Selling one used 18" SSA Icon D2 Never abused. Basket has some paint chips like all the new fi/ssa drivers. Asking $190 + shipping.

Great person to sell to!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Indeed.

Easy way to weed out the idiots. Whoops, your dead.

Crap, that was fast.

The power is not divided between the speakers (i.e. 35 & 35). Basically if you're delivering 70 watts of power on 20 to 20,000hz for example, the mid will see that 70 watts on frequencies up to the low pass crossover point. The tweeter will see 70 watts from the high pass crossover point on up. That's a really basic explanation, but I believe it answers your question.

Who ties your shoes? Seriously. Measure the depth to make sure the motor won't hit the window (when down). Adjust baffle depth accordingly, and cut to shape. If you can't figure that out, or don't have the tools, then pay a shop to do it. The end. Yes, I'm an asshole.

We are always pranking one another. Sometimes I bring in my air cannons and mount them just right under their desks. You would not believe how fast people can move when those things go off!

Happy Birthday Neal! Time to scare the co-workers--no one can get mad!

Why do you think you need an isolator? The only reason you would need one is if you listen to your stereo with the ignition off/car not running.

You don't have to make them as elaborately as I did. A few minutes with a jigsaw can produce baffles adequate for what you're needing. If you can build boxes you can do baffles easy, they have 5 less sides! lol

Time for the monster mash! HBD

Happy Birthday.

Happy happy birthday!

WOOO happy birthday! Uncle neal!

yes i am. 2.3 cubes and jl recommends 1.5 cubes. it sounds really go though so i aint to worried lol. no smelly coils yet The coil will not fail, the suspension will fail. Watch your excursion; recones from JL are VERY expensive.

Happy Birthday ! ! !

Happy SPOOKY Berfday!!

Well?

Will the center console remain tan? Maybe get some black trash bags and put them over the seats, might give you an idea of how it will look.

JVCs new line is pretty nice. I have used a new one recently. Check them out. You can get a double din for under $200.

Off to find some copper tubing to install my boost gauge. Overkill

Got back from the camping / hiking trip a day early. It was very cold and where we camped last year the wind was crazy. First time I was almost knocked over by wind gusts. All in all a cool trip. We even visited an old castle on the way to the camping site.

900 is plenty of power, I'm sure that you will be happy with the ICON.

I think if you do the seats, floor mats, and some other small pieces in black you would be ok.

Damn military guys not caring about being comfortable. You need to be pampered occasionally.

lets throw some animals in there,.

Use the Torres Box Calculator. It is my favorite, hands down, and super easy to understand and use. The port length will be what determines your tuning frequency, and the height and width will determine you port area, generally speaking. http://www.mediafire.com/?w40an4l5ygh56g8 Lemme know if that link works. I got it off SMD's forum. Or you can google it.

Okay man you have my dream truck time to give it back hahaha but no seriously this thing is the boo bees. i love the rims and everything about that truck. The sound system is killer. diggin the stuff up front thoes rockfords are sick. but the build overall looks absolutely amazing and im extremely jealous. What kind of job do you have to afford all of this stuff? hahahahaha! but Happy Bumping keep it coming

You base your sub selection on what kind of help complete strangers are gonna give you on a public web site, Jesus dude lighten up and quit being a little whiny bitch. SSA subs are some of the best you can buy period! If you want opinions from the SSA staff then email SSA and ask them, this is a public forum and 99% of the people on h ere are enthusiasts just like you.

A lot of what type of sound you hear isn't based on the subs or the box, but A LOT of it has to do with the vehicle. And what it will reproduce. Especially with an SUV, the rear hatch and roof will determine what you can play.

New cap from Duran:

Maybe you expect too much out of a single sealed 12" ? Some ideas ; Try a ported box. Use aeroports too save space if the trunk is small. Change box position : fire the sub through the rear. more power work on the electrical part of your install to feed the amplifier (!) Good luck, and tell us what you did.

Loud is relative to the person and the install. There are a number of factors at play here that effect the output. How much sound is allowed to pass through from the rear into the cabin, what kind of sound deadening you have done, where your gains are set, enclosure integrity, strength of signal the amplifier is receiving, current supply on hand, head unit settings, cross-over settings, etc. etc.

You are just not in our territory for sundown. But I'm pretty sure we can ship our Gcon to you.

Consdiering a 20 dollar hunk of neo previously is now 114 dollars..I wouldn't be bitching if I were you. It's still cheaper then anybody else on the market, you can go pay 1800 dollars for a Z series woofer if you would like...that's known as raping the consumer. The price is only adjusted to the cost of materials going up..which EVERYTHING has gone up. We ate it for quite some time while I was there and the reason was waiting until the SP4 and Team versions of the subs were available, or near available. If you don't like it..it's as simple as not buying it. Go pay 1800 dollars for the Z series woofer or 1000-1200 dollars for the DC neo woofer. (and no, i don't work there any longer)