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I don't know how this works I they are huge I apologize, these are straight from the iPhone

hope the boys find it!

Great write-up, thanks.

It is not an SPL woofer, just so we're clear. Max wattage? Whatever you put on it. Half an ohm? I'm sorry, the subwoofer doesn't care what resistance the amplifier is seeing. Break in time? Doesn't matter, not one bit.

Senchez made it here safely.... He will probably be waking up about the time I get off work, can't wait for some zcon demos! I got tomorrow off, I m thinking we will be doing a lot of catching up, any one around feel free to swing through.... Ssa subs demo all day long!!!!

it's over 2gb of custom mp3 music and largest collection of tonessweeps out there.

Thanks, all screw holes will be filled, I wanted the smooth side in. The birch is so smooth I may not resin the inside. I think it would be hard to get back to the smoothness it is now. Started working on the port but my wife shut me down, I guess a saw at 11:00 at night is frowned upon in this neighborhood. Haha

Cars on the trailer gonna drop it off at my teams shop tomorrow, see if they can work out the bugs. I'm leaving for Indy after work.

Sales figures Yes. We did discuss the twin turbo GDI system. They got away from their troublesome MAF sensors. On the twin turbo system they use 3 IAT/MAP sensors. Yeah, that makes sense. One on the inlet pipe (before the compressor) one after the intercooler in the pressure pipe, and one in the intake manifold. It allows them to determine if there are leaks in the system. SO now they have reverted to an old speed density system, but I believe I get the "why". It really limits what can be done in the aftermarket with regards to performance mods. They use a VVT system on the intake camshaft. They do suffer the carbon fouling we see on all the others (aside from Toyota, who uses port fuel injectors that spray on the intake valves and help keep them clean), but the camshafts are not getting galled like the VW/Audi. Most of the other manufacturers are using roller lifters instead of solid lifters. This wouldn't be a big issue if motor oil still had the zinc in it that they should have. Yeah, but we are not diesel or common rail mechanics. To us, high pressure systems are the 72PSI multiport injection on the GM Vortecs. A big issue is that while I go to every school I possibly can to stay on the top of my field, most guys won't spend an hour in a classroom in a year. As sad as that is, it is the truth. 95% of mechanics are getting left behind by the technologies that are being developed today. They are nuts and bolts guys, and nuts and bolts are fading away. These guys are going to jump in and start tearing a valve cover off without knowing what they are getting into, and they will get hurt.

Like when I tell the girl I want some damn eggs

I like the calculator, but where is the blood? It is October you know and I think you are teasing me about the blood!

Best of luck to everyone that attends this event !!!

Hey Mods, could we pin this? There have been a lot of people asking where to find box calculators and this one came from one of own. Stefan, thanks!

Where have you been?

Perhaps I should add an excerpt on vent mach. For now I'll just say that vent mach / port speed is the speed at which air is being excited in the port. If it's too high it causes port noise, and port compression. The more port area you have, the lower the port speed will be--generally (I say generally because changing the tuning frequency also effects this speed). What affects vent mach? port area, tuning, and a driver's ability to displace air. It's calculated from a driver's t/s specs, power, tuning, and port area. So port area isn't dependent on enclosure volume, sorry 12-16 rule.

Show me the money!

Yeah We are working on getting the coupons out to Tru for Friday night

Honestly it looks like a bucking magnet for shielding to me, which wouldn't be necessary in a vehicle. I would be a little more worried about the rear vent no longer being sealed......it looks like the plate on the rear side of the bucking magnet was creating a small sealed chambered.

To deaden the cabin your going to want mass, and Don's MLV is perfect for that.

Here is something to get you started, direct from Don " I'd need > > some more detailed measurements from which to create an estimate and > > describe how I would treat your Explorer: > > > > 1) Height and width of front door exterior sheet metal. > > 2) Height and width of front door interior trim panels. > > 3) Height and width of rear door exterior sheet metal. > > 4) Height and width of rear door interior trim panels. > > > > 5) Height and width of the kick panel/front foot well outer sides. > > 6) Width of the floor (include the sides and top of the center tunnel if > > there is one and the height of each outer sill). > > 7) Distance from as far up the firewall as you can reach to the front > > edge of the front seats. > > 8) Distance from the front edge of the front seats to the front of the > > base of the platform for back seat. > > 9) Height and width of the vertical riser running from the floor to > > platform the back seat sits on. > > 10) Length and width of the back seat platform. > > > > 11) Height and width of the wall behind the back seat if there is one. > > > > 12) Length and width of the roof. > > 13) Length and width of the sun roof (if any). > > > > 14) Length and width of the cargo area floor. > > 15) Depth and diameter (depth, length and width, if not circular) of > > spare tire well. > > 16) Height and width of the rear quarter panels. > > > > 17) Height and width of cargo door exterior sheet metal. > > 18) Height and width of cargo door interior trim panel. > > > > Thank you. "

Simple solution. Contact Don @ Sounddeadenershowdown.com Tell him exactly what you are looking to do, your vehicle, what the goals are for the deadening. He'll email you back requesting a list of measurements from the vehicle if he doesn't already have them on record. Once he has the vehicle measurements he will email you with an extremely detailed plan for deadening the vehicle based on your goals. That includes a break-down of exactly how much of what products he recommends for you vehicle and how or what method to apply them based on your goals and proper sound deadening techniques and performance along with a break down of cost. From there you can decide if you wish to proceed with his recommendations (which I'd recommend), or if not which products you do and don't want to use if there are budgetary or time constraints. He's sometimes bombarded with emails, and his responses are time consuming as they are very detailed, so do allow him a little bit of time. If you don't hear back in a couple days, shoot him another email or PM him on one of the forums and just ask him to check your first email. Not only is he one of the most knowledgeable in the industry when it comes to sound deadening, but he also has the most detailed and thorough method of laying out a deadening plan for the vehicle as well as some of the highest quality products on the market. There really isn't a better option. You won't have to guess at how much deadener or take suggestions on how much of your money to spend on deadening from some random person on an internet forum who may or may not know what they're doing. You'll get a detailed analysis from the most knowledgeable guy in the industry

From TeamSSA, we have Zach Metts and Steve Mead so far I believe. The rest of the Florida guys are staying and going remotely.

Build looks good, as others said I would change your Lugs and get some cheap wire hammer crimpers and a sledge hammer, even if you had to shed alittle wire to get them in it will not have any current affect at all. Works like a champ. Also be careful on having the mids crossed so low. They even say from 80hz+ on the specs. A good loud sub 60 note may just smoke one. I have mine crossed at 80 but thats just me Great build and look forward to seeing your progress.