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Not a manufacturing issue..a speaker is an input device, if you do something wrong it smokes and stops working. It only does what you tell it to do in the environment in which you place it in. It's no different than buying a brand new car..taking it 100mph in 1st gear on the interstate and the engine flies apart..that's not because it is a bad car, or the car had issues. It's because you did not shift to the 4 other gears that the car has. Again, it only does what you tell it to do in the environment in which you place it in.

no, the incident happened years ago. i mentioned it about a year ago on here when somebody was saying something about a dui iircIt was closer to a month ago than a year ago.

Hmm....I doubt it.Came out of Randal's mouth not, mine. "I'll have to talk to Ray about it". Just to put Randal's comments on phase compensation in perspective. The class in Physics you take after Classical Mechanics is Waves. Both follow exactly the same set of rules. Describing things in waves is obviously over the head of 99.9% of the public, so I'll move to a more simple and straightforward analogy from Classical Mechanics which I alluded to above. Gravity. Most people know it exists and at least have a rudimentary understanding of what it does. There are situations you can create to avoid gravity. Just google how they train astronauts. So the preface of not always having gravity 100% of the time is feasible. The same can be said about phase compensation. At a single frequency for a single point in space it isn't so hard. Change space or frequency and it becomes even more difficult than gravity correction. By Randal typing his truck is phase compensated it is exactly akin to saying I am able to defy gravity at ALL TIMES in ALL PLACES with my truck. Reality of the situation is that there is no place it will ever defy gravity. Same wih the phase. It will never be compensated at all points in space (flat out impossible) and at all frequencies (no processor available to my knowledge has that power). Of course, then by saying he'll have to bring it up with Ray I can assume the source. You can doubt what you want, but I guess we could clear this up by asking fo r the source although I don't care as either way it is flat out wrong, impossible and shouldn't be cited. Wherever it came from, whomever it came from is either an idiot or a manipulative ass that is trying to make $$ by confusing those that don't know. And please, ask ALL the frequency related questions you like. It is rather right up my alley. If something is unclear I'd be glad to explain it to you. Just because it might sound subjectively good now, doesn't mean it couldn't sound better I've got some other issues with the install. But I'm sure Randall is happy so I figured it wasn't worth the argument.... I know what you are saying. Several years ago when my supra was doing 440hp at the wheels it was pretty fast. I gave several people a ride and they couldn't believe how fast it was. Fastest car they have ever been in. That summer at a supra event my buddy in GA just finished his. Was doing 620hp on the dyno. I went for a ride and it was a different world. Got back in mine and it felt broke lol. Needless to say I upgraded mine soon after. That was around 2006. I think I'm on upgrade #4 and now its in pieces in the garage again. Exactly. And not unlike Impious I left out a ton of other obvious things that can help, but if my recommendation were followed it would benefit things GREATLY. And for those with the "just listen to it" comments. That is seriously laughable. I have listened to pretty much every driver in the Madisound, PE, Solen, and ... catalogs. Including tons that have never made it to market. All in environments way nicer than a car. So yes, not only do I understand scientifically what will happen but my ears have experienced it as well. Exactly why I will not be attending some simple car audio event. Compared to sitting in Ray Kimber's, Dave Wilson's, Jim Winey's, Orfield Lab's and other listening rooms I've been in there is not anything in car audio that will impress me. What baffles me is EVERYDAY I want to learn more, but the attitude of some of you that come on here with the high and holy this product is the shiznit is absurd. Install is everything and all Imp & I are doing is trying to help. Stop taking it personally and open your ears.

Starting a build log for my 1995 Cadillac Eldorado. Will use Pioneer Head Unit, Blues speakers, and Linear Power amps. Working on it as I have time, will update as often as possible.

Hmm....I doubt it. Came out of Randal's mouth not, mine. "I'll have to talk to Ray about it".Just to put Randal's comments on phase compensation in perspective. The class in Physics you take after Classical Mechanics is Waves. Both follow exactly the same set of rules. Describing things in waves is obviously over the head of 99.9% of the public, so I'll move to a more simple and straightforward analogy from Classical Mechanics which I alluded to above. Gravity. Most people know it exists and at least have a rudimentary understanding of what it does. There are situations you can create to avoid gravity. Just google how they train astronauts. So the preface of not always having gravity 100% of the time is feasible. The same can be said about phase compensation. At a single frequency for a single point in space it isn't so hard. Change space or frequency and it becomes even more difficult than gravity correction. By Randal typing his truck is phase compensated it is exactly akin to saying I am able to defy gravity at ALL TIMES in ALL PLACES with my truck. Reality of the situation is that there is no place it will ever defy gravity. Same wih the phase. It will never be compensated at all points in space (flat out impossible) and at all frequencies (no processor available to my knowledge has that power). Of course, then by saying he'll have to bring it up with Ray I can assume the source. You can doubt what you want, but I guess we could clear this up by asking fo r the source although I don't care as either way it is flat out wrong, impossible and shouldn't be cited. Wherever it came from, whomever it came from is either an idiot or a manipulative ass that is trying to make $$ by confusing those that don't know. And please, ask ALL the frequency related questions you like. It is rather right up my alley. If something is unclear I'd be glad to explain it to you. Just because it might sound subjectively good now, doesn't mean it couldn't sound better I've got some other issues with the install. But I'm sure Randall is happy so I figured it wasn't worth the argument.... I know what you are saying.Several years ago when my supra was doing 440hp at the wheels it was pretty fast. I gave several people a ride and they couldn't believe how fast it was. Fastest car they have ever been in. That summer at a supra event my buddy in GA just finished his. Was doing 620hp on the dyno. I went for a ride and it was a different world. Got back in mine and it felt broke lol. Needless to say I upgraded mine soon after. That was around 2006. I think I'm on upgrade #4 and now its in pieces in the garage again. Exactly. And not unlike Impious I left out a ton of other obvious things that can help, but if my recommendation were followed it would benefit things GREATLY.And for those with the "just listen to it" comments. That is seriously laughable. I have listened to pretty much every driver in the Madisound, PE, Solen, and ... catalogs. Including tons that have never made it to market. All in environments way nicer than a car. So yes, not only do I understand scientifically what will happen but my ears have experienced it as well. Exactly why I will not be attending some simple car audio event. Compared to sitting in Ray Kimber's, Dave Wilson's, Jim Winey's, Orfield Lab's and other listening rooms I've been in there is not anything in car audio that will impress me. What baffles me is EVERYDAY I want to learn more, but the attitude of some of you that come on here with the high and holy this product is the shiznit is absurd. Install is everything and all Imp & I are doing is trying to help. Stop taking it personally and open your ears. The underlined above statement is the most important thing said in the last few pages.

I wouldn't put anything up top. If this is what you have, I'd personally probably build a sub into one of the couch bottoms. If you are taking the couches out for standing room then you'll have to go vertical. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpxNWewrJ3k

love my oem backup camera. i use it all the time.

digging the red in the port!!

**Censored**

It was not many years ago. It was one year ago or so. Maybe less. Maybe your a new man, and the past is behind ya, but don't bullshit the bullshiters.

Little more progress today. Sure would be nice to have something evil to put in it...

Just because it might sound subjectively good now, doesn't mean it couldn't sound better I've got some other issues with the install. But I'm sure Randall is happy so I figured it wasn't worth the argument....

i can't say it enough, i fucking hate drunk drivers!!! i drink a lot, but i would never hop in my vehicle or anybody elses if there was a person who had more than 1 12oz beer behind the wheel. that does piss me off, the guy was working to try to help somebody else and some drunk kills him.Correct me if wrong but wasn't it you who was bragging about downing 2 pitchers before leaving one night and not blowing above the legal limit??? J

I'm sure it sounds good. I've never sat in it so I would be able to say otherwise. However the diameter of a driver determines its cutoff frequencies. There is no way around that. I will go on to say though that Corey Himmel used a 6.5 in the kicks, a 5" in the pillar/dash area and a 5.25 center channel (ran F1status). With a kicker 8 or 10 in the dash.

Little more progress

You could play them in fast forward. Hahaha... Nah man, it's just slowed music, that is what makes the bass so low in some of them. You slow a 50hz tone to half speed and it's now a 25hz tone, roughly. Some are the same song but with more bass or sine waves added it seems like, just depends on the song. It's not so much that they will hit *harder* than other music with bass but that there is usually a lot more of it or longer tones, so it's a bit more impact. I just like it more because most of the other stuff I have doesn't have much in terms of under 40hz minus a few random songs. If you already have a collection full of low heavy music, it might not seem all that impressive.

A little more work completed. Passenger side door ready for the 6.5 and made up some cables to replace the factory grounds. I've installed them in the car, just don't have any pictures yet. Will get them up soon.

Was able to get a little work done today. Hopefully get the passenger side completed tomorrow.

Couldn't see it

On every page or a specific page ^^Will help them figure out the problem

I have a 02 Laredo, and am running 7.5 Cubes atm, but I could easily fit 8 Cubes without losing my backseat/window visibility

Not really the way it works..... AT ALL. You would never hear a difference between 1500 and 2000 watts. Subs don't need a certain power to "come alive" like most people think. This, Go ahead and look at Sencheezys thread of him putting 600 Watts, to a SSA Evil.

Crescendo makes quality amplifiers, and leaving room for upgrades it never a bad thought.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/57993-how-to-go-about-picking-a-fuse-size/

Thanks Neal... sometimes wish I went to school for auto mechanics .... I hate paying arsehos to do work on my car only to have them tell me something else is causing it after they suggested the original repair to fix the described issue... WTF with these money hungry arsehos... I'm willing to pay but fix the fcking problem.... SMH at this shyt bro... Too bad you aren't closer, Id have no problem helping you replace your suspension. $900 Seems steep to replace a rear suspension, especially in a shop environment with a lift/ air tools etc... I'd definitely take it to a few more mechanics and shop around for a better price

Depends how bad of shape his suspension really is in I guess, not really good to put bandaids on a suspension can make for a bad accident

Right now I'm running a HFI 1500D. I'm planning on going with a Crescendo or Sundown amp, but I want my electrical to be set before dishing out money on a new amp and possibly causing harm to it.

As of right now just a 2000, the BIGGEST I would go is a 3500

I ordered a 270 Amp alternator from Singer a little over a week ago, and he said it should be ready for shipment by the end of this week. I'm looking to upgrade my battery under the hood now, and in a few weeks throw another one in the back if needed. there's a ton of batteries to choose from...and from what I've read around on this forum you want a AGM/Deep Cycle batteries but if thats all your looking at there's a LOT of options. So my question is what specifications from batteries should you look at when related to car audio, right now I'm looking at a DieHard Platinum. What specs should I look at when comparing this battery to say, a Yellow Top Optima? Is this a good choice on a battery or can I get a better bang for my buck? (I've tried searching up information on the topic, and its really hard to find anything useful. I basically see a whole bunch of either go with XS Power/Yellow Top...Which I'm not saying is a bad thing but no one explains why to go with these batteries and just a lot of claims you should.)

You don't have like a bicycle patch or anything? I googled it and all I'm seeing is patch it, then put a metal clamp on both sides of the patch

Good to hear you made it safe.

I'm sure if you do enough searching you can find an already designed box for a BL, and the type/size of wood you would want to use is 3/4 MDF. Would help a bit if you told us what kind of vehicle its going into, whats your max dimensions for a box, and what size BL you're getting.

I have a 02 Laredo, from what I know we have around the same cargo area size, so you should be around 40" wide, 30" depth, and 19 inches high (Its just good to know) The box in the cut sheets will work fine for you, just take your time and do a bit of browsing around this forum there's a lot of tips on how to make a box. Also what kind of electrical are you running? I know 'm using a HFI 1500D and when wired at 1 Ohm, on stock electrical I suffered from extreme light dimming/voltage drop. Considering 2001-2004 Grand Cherokees have little difference's if you're running stock power you might run into a few problems.

I have a 02 Laredo, from what I know we have around the same cargo area size, so you should be around 40" wide, 30" depth, and 19 inches high (Its just good to know) The box in the cut sheets will work fine for you, just take your time and do a bit of browsing around this forum there's a lot of tips on how to make a box. Also what kind of electrical are you running? I know I'm using a HFI 1500D and when wired at 1 Ohm, on stock electrical I suffered from extreme light dimming/voltage drop. Considering 2001-2004 Grand Cherokees have little difference's if you're running stock power you might run into a few problems.

at the very least I would disconnect the harness's going to the amplifier, but weather you remove it or not is up to you. Leaving it there without being connected to anything won't hurt anything.

I'm not 100% sure but I'd imagine it would draw power, maybe not a lot, but I would think it would draw something. Someone else here might be able to better answer that one. Just personally if I was going to leave it and not use it I'd disconnect it.

nvm

I was gonna recommend AMDs new APU Series, not sure if your still looking though.