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Bigjon has reached photobucket ninja master, level III.

What's the point of this thread??

okay cool! thank you. i'll look into the kits from lowes or home depot. also, are there any decent priced routers you would recommend? i just figured out the one i was looking at isnt compatible with the jasper jig Spend the extra money and get a 3/4 horse porta cable. Night and day difference than big box level routers. It'll last your lifetime. You might have to change out the motor brushes every 10 years or so with daily use but they are only a few bucks

Purchase a round over set from lowes. Should have everything you need. For 3/4" wood use a 3/8" round over to get the half circle look. You will likely want to sand it just a bit as well just to make sure it is nice and smooth. For the 90 degree bends and on the port opening we use the 3/8" or a 3/4" depending on the design and look wanted.

I am very similar, low levels it must sound good. Then the urge to make people shit their pants kicks in. Almost like building Haunt props suttle and unsure at first, then BAM coming at you to scare the shit out of you!

I love sq but sometimes I get in these modes where I am just craving spl. I was going to port the xcons for sure but you are making me seriously consider running them sealed Neal

Love your build man, glad to hear you've got your evil doing what it was meant to do...punishing people!

I will have to wait until I get the sealed box built to answer that. You are the only person that will ever seal an evil Not saying that it isn't a good fit for it, but it probably isn't what most people would do with the Evil. I am definitely tuned in for the results, and love the fact that you are trying it out! I seal every woofer I own. I am not a fan of vented enclosures. For home audio, absolutely, but not in-car. Yet, if you pop the trunk in my car you'll see a W7 in a vented enclosure.

I will have to wait until I get the sealed box built to answer that. You are the only person that will ever seal an evil Not saying that it isn't a good fit for it, but it probably isn't what most people would do with the Evil. I am definitely tuned in for the results, and love the fact that you are trying it out!

No he was selling those, he has TONS of other subs to use, just wanted to see what he could do with these, they took double the RMS rating all day at that show. I never smelled coil. $50-60 a piece.

this is sweet!!! so im guessing this chick cheated on this dude.. well he got back at he by making an account on PB and posting nudes of her lol http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/revengeissweet2/profile/ NSFW

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NauzKqmJ6y8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

try social media

WOW Chop, they look awesome! I can't wait to see this and hangout with you in July.

welcome you picked the best forum for good info and not much b.s like the rest of the forums

Find better grounds for h/u and amp it will solve your feedback issue, I highly doubt it would be a bad rca ground in the amp itself, lights dimming are you sure the sub/subs are wired correctly? Get ahold of a volt meter and check voltage drop at amp as everyone else has suggested, we can't quite help if you don't do things that are suggested for more help, replacing batt up front will do lots of good things if it is a few years old, also set your gains with a dmm you should NOT need bass boost at all How to properly set your amplifier gains using a DMM Step 1: Determine the RMS output of one channel of your amplifier and the rated RMS input of your speakers/subwoofers you will be using on that channel. Select the lower of the two for using this chart http://db.tt/ZiZA5Yyq Step 2: Match the impedance (ohms) you have on one channel of your amplifier to the column on the chart. Step 3: Turn your amplifier gain all the way down. Step 4: Disconnect all speakers/subwoofers from the amplifier Step 5: Insert the leads of the multimeter in to the channel you are setting (if bridging an amplifier use the terminals you would be using) Step 6: Set the multimeter to ac volts Step 7: Turn on the head unit, zero out all EQ settings, turn off all filters (low pass/high pass), and make sure loudness is off. Step 8: Play a 50hz or 60hz test tone Step 9: Set the volume to 75%-80% of the maximum volume on your head unit. Step 10: Start playing the appropriate test tone for subwoofers, 1000hz for mids/highs Step 11: Slowly turn the gain until you obtain the voltage from the chart Step 12: Turn off the head unit, unhook the multimeter, hook up your speakers/subwoofers Step 13: Adjust EQ to desired settings without distortion/clipping its that simple

Very nice!......diggin the sticker shot

Hi I'm Sean. I joined because SSA has good products and I want to see what else is coming since the Evil release. I want to get some xcons or maybe something better when I get the coin.

I think you should take everything out and restart your build... DIY its cheaper... Take the sub out check the surround first because that is the most common place it becomes un-glued.... car audio is all about trial and error eventually you will figure it out

Take the sub out and show us EXACTLY to a T how the sub is wired! from the DRIVER to the AMP! and be very detailed if you would like the best knowledge from some experienced members on the forum.

I know a guy who runs a shop like that and you know what they do when people like you come in? They fuck your shit up in hopes you will buy what they are selling.

8 X 4 = 32 10 x 2 = 20 8" wins the cone area fight. If you can stretch your budget a little more, I have seen 2 sundown 8" do a 146 on music.

page FO FOTTA FO

Your explanation was useless, it only works in this scenario. As Shizzon has said, 2 10's with your explanation should have more cone area then 1 18, eventhough that is far from the truth. I don't understand what you get out of calling people math nerds. Some very good advice for you would be to stop typing, untill you know how to talk to people. (it's not because this is the internet that you shouldn't behave properly.)