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Well one audible difference that I have experienced first hand is less trunk rattle. That box is big enough in the opening that you likely wouldn't gain any output "to the ear", but it sounds a whole lot better to me sealed off because of the lack of trunk rattle.

Showing off the Mustang, must of given 80+ demos for about 4 hours straight no issues! Sound Solutions Audio Inc. and NW Audio For the win! It was like this for 4 hours! Videos to come!

Nice shirt, and the first girl's expression is great.

Tire Rack usually has good deals but that price range is really low for new wheels. Finding some used wheels in good condition is your best bet.

We do have something in common believe it or not ... as far as I can tell, You love your music just as much as I do !!! Like I said earlier ... If I had acess to better listening environments, maybe I'd feel a little different. But my everyday life revolves around a Car Audio environment. Here lately it's been finding good hiding places for drivers in Street Rods and producing a decent sound ... LOL As far as "subjectively comparing things is blind A/B testing" goes, we get out try sitting and listening to vehicles like Scott Buwalda's G35 or Todd Crowder's Camaro (more than one or a few people I might add) and then sitting and listening to vehicles like my truck and being really suprised that my truck is actually "Not that Far off" so to speak ... Is that considered rediculous ??? And I agree with you 100 percent about the majority of Car Audio events ... Most want to see how loud they get and reach the highset SPL number they can in their class ... No pride in their system's installations, no care for true sound, no care in vehicle appearance ... Geez this list goes on and on !!! WE NEED MORE PEOPLE LIKE YOU TO HELP US OUT IN THE SOUND QUALITY WORLD TO MAKE OUR SPORT BETTER !!! If people like us just "give up" on true audiophile sound reproduction, the meanings get lost and twisted so nobody actually knows the true meanings of the words ... Yes, I said Audiophile ... The search for perfect Audio reproduction ... So instead of spamming up my thread about how bad it is in using the term Audiophile, Please Teach us the true meaning and how we can learn "What it is", whare we can find it, and know what it is when we've reached our goals ... And I would like this in simple terms please. I sold my set of encylopedias since my wife thinks she knows everything ... - I am trying my best to understand what you are saying here ... Without using millions of dollars test equipment, Can you PLEASE tell us a better way of doing this in a "Car Audio Environment" ??? I am VERY open to suggestion here !!!Me and Clint (Dangrebel) spent over an hour in my truck that night on Daytona beach listgening to music ... The First time he's ever got to hear real "stage and image" and was hooked !!! Now he has an idea of what he wants out of his front stage and is working towards that now ... No, I'm not convinceing him to go with my chosen product, but a general idea of driver positioning and installation methods that will help him make his system better ... Getting out at these events and meeting up is the only way to make things like this happen ... FOR THE LOVE OF MUSIC I'm personally inviting you to come out to the Unified World Finals event in Huntsville, Alabama to meet up with us !!! I know of about 20 or so people with vehicles that would GLADLY open up their doors and let you give us your honnest opinions about the Sound Quality setups ... I also know of a few BAD ASS SPL machines that would let you jump in for a demo or two !!! Hopefully I will get to see you soon my brother !!!

Sounds like she's coming along nicely. J

Small update ... No pics at this time, Sorry. Got her brakes fixed, got stock wheels with decent tires mounted, and loaded up on the trailer and brought her home !!! I got her completely changed (engine only, lets get real here ...) over to a 12 volt system. Just got to install an Alternator so it will charge normal. Going to install a complete wiring harness as soon as possible. But for now, just have the key switch set up so it will start up and shut down the car normally ... I just googled and found a Dakota Digital dash cluster set for this car ... DAMN THEY ARE EXPENSIVE !!! ... Maybe later I will start looking up air conditioner setups later too ... I have to get out and find a suitable fuel tank so we can driver her around the block a few times in the near future ... In all actuality ... I do not see any reason why we couldn't plan out the dash and kick pannel drivers and start a little audio fabrication soon ...

Tomorrow I have an interview with the Guard Unit up at Whiteman AFB, MO for a full time guard position.. Hopefully I can get it. It will be a very well paying position.. wish me luck!

Thiele Small parameters describe the low frequency behavior of a loudspeaker. Cms is the compliance of the suspension of the loudspeaker. Compliance is the inverse of stiffness. So Cms tells you how compliant the suspension of the speaker is....or, by extension, how stiff the suspension is (a higher compliance means lower stiffness, lower compliance means higher stiffness). When a subwoofer "breaks in", the only physical parameter that changes is the compliance of the suspension (Cms). Cms increases (the suspension becomes more compliant) because the suspensions loosens up and becomes softer and less stiff. Since Cms changes, it changes most of the other relevant T/S parameters that predict how a loudspeaker behaves in the low frequency realm. Fs is the resonant frequency of the driver. This is your basic mass on a spring stuff. The mass of the moving parts (cone, coil and former, & suspension) and the "spring" is the suspension, and at some frequency these parts will naturally resonant just the same as any other mass on a spring. That's Fs. And since the compliance of the spring changes, the resonant frequency changes. Fs will go down because there's slightly less "spring" with the same amount of mass, so it resonates at a lower frequency. Q was short hand for Qms, Qes and Qts. Q stands for Quality factor. Basically if a system is resonating, Q describes the amount of "loss" in the system or the amount of damping the system is providing....it tells you how long that system will resonate for. A higher Q means there is less loss (and less damping) so the system will be more resonant and will take longer to stop oscillating. Back to our mass on a spring, Q factor will determine how long it takes for the system to stop oscillating. Qms describes the damping provided by the suspension (surround and spider). Qes describes the damping provided by the motor. And Qts is the combined damping of the Qms and Qes, or the total damping of the driver. Generally speaking the motor provides the most control over the driver at and above resonance, so Qts is always much close to Qes than it is to Qms. There is also Vas, which is more or less a different expression of the compliance of the loudspeaker. It's expressed in terms of air volume, liters or cubic feet. A larger Vas for a given cone diameter means a more compliant (less stiff) suspension. Vas has a lot to do with enclosure volume. Generally speaking, a larger Vas means a larger enclosure volume is needed for a given alignment. Fs, Qts and Vas are the main parameters the describe what the shape of the response curve of a speaker will look like in a given enclosure. Now, Cms is really the only physical parameter that changes when a speaker breaks in. But since Cms changes, Fs and Vas will both change (Fs goes down, Vas goes up). And since Fs changes, Qes and Qms will both change (they go down since Fs goes down) which therefore changes Qts (goes down as well since both Qes and Qms go down). Looking at the math helps understand that part of it. But, more importantly, because Cms is the only physical parameter that changes that means Fs, Vas and Qts will all change in proportion to each other leaving their relative ratios pretty much the same. Which means the shape of the response in a given enclosure remains pretty much the same. There are small changes to the response, but they are are well below the threshold of audibility...less than 1db. It might, *MIGHT* matter to a guy who does SPL where .1db can be the difference between 1st and 2nd place. But audibly....no difference.

It's slightly overkill but as long as the wire fits all of the connectors it is fine. In most cases 14ga or 16ga will work just fine and could save you a little money. But as with power wire, speaker wire gauge depends on the amount of current being passed through the wire. BCAE has a good calculator you can use to determine appropriate wire gauge: http://bcae1.com/wire.htm

Haha no problem man. That's always the first thing to check is the wiring like that and also the ground as well when things Aren't working. Its easy to make mistakes like that. everyones done it lol Glad they're working now.

I think they should still play but could be out of phase. That's what I would check first.

Sounds like the wiring of the subs is messed up somewhere. Check again to make sure. I know you probably think they are wired right, but sometimes you skip over it. Happens all the time. The wiring inside of the box I mean.

Fiona is home and doing better. She is enjoying her new memory foam bed. Riley is happy she is back too.

Fuck that. If people are too lazy to ask a good question and share information diplomacy is a waste of time. That's been proven over and over and over and over. That'd be the dumbest thing you've ever done.

Love it! And I also love that shirt. SSA FTW!!!

A little too low drops down to 25hz but still hairtricks

Oh, the autotune sucks. One other comment of course. With functionality you can kiss ease of setup out the window. That holds true for any headunit/processor.

From the pictures they appear to be aimed fairly off axis to the listeners, which is not uncommon as this allows the listening axis of both seats to be closer to equally off axis to both speakers which in turn helps the frequency response have less deviation between the L & R speakers at the listening position. If you look at pictures of some of the big name competitors, their mids are hardly ever aimed at the listener. They are usually aimed far off axis, many times aimed straight across the vehicle at each other. Vertical (height) ques generally begin to occur when the wavelength of the soundwave is equal to the height of your ear. Generally this will be in the 3khz - 4khz range......But if ya got big honkin' ears you may start to recognize height ques at a much lower frequency The potential problem with separating the mid from the tweeter by a great distance (a distance greater than the wavelength of the crossover frequency) is coherence and frequency response at and near the crossover point. It can be overcome, but something that needs considered. In midbass frequencies the wavelength of the sound wave is typically longer than the diameter of the cone (for the speaker sizes we typically use in car audio) so the on- and off-axis response of the driver is not going to deviate from each other. But as frequency increases and the wavelength becomes smaller than the diameter of the cone (as may happen in the midrange frequencies) the soundwaves generated by the cone will begin to destructively interfere with each other and the off-axis begin to roll off and deviate from the on axis response. Think of the speaker as an array of tiny point sources. When the wavelength of the soundwave is less than the distance between the sources, they can destructively interfere. Where this problem occurs for a driver playing midrange depends on the diameter of the driver. The effect is referred to as "beaming". This is one of the reasons I mentioned above that many competitors intentionally aim speakers off axis to both listeners. If you aim a speaker on axis to one listener, it will inherently be off axis to the other listener. Since in the midrange frequencies beaming usually begins to occur, the on and off axis response is going be different. One thing you generally want in a good stereo setup is for the frequency response at the listening position to be the same from both the left and right speakers. And if you want a stereo to sound equally as good from both the driver and passenger seats, then the frequency response at both seats also needs to be the same. So if you aim the speakers on axis to the driver, the passenger will be off axis and hence the frequency response will likely be different. If you aim the speakers at some arbitrary point between the two seats, then you will be more off axis to the near side speaker than you will be the opposing speaker which will create a difference in frequency response between the left and right speakers. But if you aim them close to equally off axis to both listeners, then the response at both listening positions and from both speakers will be closer to the same. Some competitors start by aiming the speakers either at the opposing speaker or at the back of the headunit, then make their adjustments from there. I tried to help. Sorry, I didn't read this paragraph before asking about the crossover