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I should Neg. you for this but I'm not.You would if he was bigjon

View that Matt and I have for lunch

So here are sizes of the amps to give you a idea of the footprint of the units. FL1 2k is 12in wide x 2 in tall x 15.5 long FL2 3.8k is 12in wide x 2in tall x 26 in long BA1 5k is 13in wide x 3 in tall x 24 in long El Nino 6.5k 13in wide x 3 in tall x 28 in long BA2 7k 13in wide x 3 in tall x 34 in long BA3 8.5k 13in wide x 3in tall x36 long El Jefe 10k model 13 wide x 3 in tall x 38 long

Fail Robin, typical BHE fashion. More pics and less words

I like pics but all I see are two and the post reapeat itself three times?

Is this the same logic you used for the first part of your statement? I'd be willing to accept the argument of severe over-driving (to one side of the suspension) if the OP was running an NS1 or a Brazilian smoke machine. Granted I don't know for a fact that the OP wasn't running a bigger amp, but assuming he was running a Sundown 3k on a 3k rated woofer, shouldn't Severe over-driving of the suspension be the least of his worries? If you burn any speaker up...regardless if it is a walmart or craiglist special it is because the loose nut behind the controls applied too much power to it in one form or another, or there was something else going on with the inductive heating. The Korean amps ramp the switching frequency of the mosfets up sky high so they can save 4 parts on the board and they do not filter any of this high frequency noise out. That noise goes into the tinsel leads on the speaker and causes them to glow. The vast majority of the time the speakers are wired in series or parallel which will always yield 1 tinsel lead frying on one side of the sub..unless it holds on long enough to bang the other tinsel lead on the other side, which occasionally does happen. If people can run in excess of 8000 watts to that exact same tinsel lead setup all day every day with zero problems there is something wrong somewhere else. Watts is heat energy, if things are set up properly a 3000 watt amplifier should NEVER be able to produce the heat that 8000 watts worth of mulitple amplifiers does.

Severe over driving and inductive heating. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the tinsel leads or the sub period. If there was something wrong with it every single one would have failed. There are thousands of them out there with no issues. Speakers are stupid..they do what you tell them to do in the environment you place them in. They do not spontaneously combust.

Here are a few vid links to some of our competitors that are running out amps we have Mark Jenkins who has our FL1 which is our 2k, Robin Butler who has 2 of ourBA3s which is our 8.5k, Zaim nayor who has 2 of ourBA2s which is our 7k. We also have Hank Veach who has 3 7ks going on 4 lol hopefully we will have some vids of his F350 soon and MR Trippi Congo with the infamous Hummer with 6 of our BA3. Chris Peters has 2 of our El Nino's which is our 6.5k.

Lol I knew Jon would be in here.

I am on that Jager right now... $225 plus shipping!!!

oh sweet mother of god

For the price, i'd go 4/0

whoa

For sitting on my ass 95% of the time it's obscene.

Is this for competing or just daily and demoing?

We do have a team of guys right now and as far as shipping is concerned we will be drop shipping for a while until we see how well things go. I have shipped every model of our amps to most parts of the US the most i have had to charge for shipping has been 50 for our BA3 our 8.5k model. As far as being on team Flatline we dont just have anyone one on the team we are very selective about chosing team members.

When a customer needs warranty service on their amp, how does that work? Does customer ship to you guys or directly to a repair center... And which repair center repairs your amps?

Is this the same logic you used for the first part of your statement? I'd be willing to accept the argument of severe over-driving (to one side of the suspension) if the OP was running an NS1 or a Brazilian smoke machine. Granted I don't know for a fact that the OP wasn't running a bigger amp, but assuming he was running a Sundown 3k on a 3k rated woofer, shouldn't Severe over-driving of the suspension be the least of his worries?

So every amp should be the same price going by your logic. They are pricey compared to what? Actually that's not even close to what I said. Compared to other amplifiers, they are more expensive. And yes, all amplifiers with similar features should be priced fairly close. That's like saying 600 horsepower cars should be in all price ranges. Well hell yes I'd love that. But someone paying big money for the same power would probably be disappointed in their purchase. I was asking what made the amplifier's price higher than comparable models as there could be difference to make it worth the price. I wasn't being rude, nor was I trying to stir the pot, I'm gathering information. Thanks for adding a high level of maturity to the topic. The problem with such is that there isn't any good way for the average person to empirically determine which is better. You can test drive vehicles, see which handles better, feels more comfortable, and which feels faster. With amps that's much harder to do, and especially in a car environment where it's unlikely you could hear a difference between one and another for SQ, or output (unless the power difference is huge, talking about nearly double the difference in power). So the only thing left is the manufacturer and their reputation. Who do you believe has the resources to design a better amp? At least that's my opinion.

So every amp should be the same price going by your logic. They are pricey compared to what?

How exactly were the amplifiers verified to exceed factory specifications? The clamp tests posted in the other thread aren't a valid test result. I assume you used some other verifiable, reliable measuring system in order to make that statement?

nice!

Keep in mind that while BL increases, Re also doubles which means less current through the motor. Using the standard BL2/Re to express the motor force factor, the D1 SSD15 would have a force factor of ~123 while the D2 SSD15 would have a force factor of ~125. As you can see, they are virtually identical.

I think one thing that people forget in car audio is that the lower the impedance, the worse everything performs.

I agree. A more agressive tire does really set off the look of these trucks. I really like the Goodyear Duratrac's and would recommend them to anyone. While technically an all terrain tire, they're plenty aggressive when it comes to mud, snow, etc but behave very well in the rest of the conditions, ride really good and have to be the quietest damn tires with that much tread I've ever experienced. They also wear fairly well too. I put 55,000 miles on the first set I put on my '07 Chevy 2500HD work truck. I like them so much I put another set on it and put a set on the Jimmy. Sadly I'll never get to see how many miles I would get out of the second set, they replaced that truck this year with a '13 Ford F-250 Super Duty that has 17" rims, so I can't even transfer them to this truck. It doesn't matter though, I know exactly what's going on it as soon as the factory tires wear out. The truck is looking good so far Mark. I'm certain the build will be beastly, in an Evil way.

I'm still trying to understand how the OP overpowering/clipping the sub only smoked the spider/tinsel lead, but oh well. The sad part is I'm still dying to run these subs.

Your information is incorrect.No, your information is incorrect. He gave the sub too much power and we all know that. For that reason its a customer abuse issue, not warranty.We all know why he blew it up but your explanation is still incorrect. If you would go through the topic, from the link you posted, you would see that one person had it correct when he said "I frequently load music files in adobe audition which monitors db levels of the signal. MOST songs I have looked at reach 0db at some point, and some exceed that (clip) frequently, although the average dB level of the entire song is often -10db or less." It doesn't really matter where the "average" is at. This is calculated per the sub's RMS power. Sub is rated at 3000 watts RMS and he pushed it past that. I'm going to agree to disagree with you.

All amplifiers will run @ 12v I guess I should have been clearer the amps operate from 10v to 16v or from 10v to 18v In that case it would be helpful if you listed what voltage was used per output reading. All those are @ 14v

There's a difference between members, mods, super mods and "tech team" I wouldn't stick around for the shit...

I have sat here and had to deal with a ton of BS for no reason and I was as professional as I could ever be with the people here was I given the same courtesy hell no and if we leave the forum is it isn't retreating by any means so basically its cool for someone to spit in your face as long as they do it in a way that is suppose to be helpful LMAO what the hell.

Your information is incorrect.No, your information is incorrect. He gave the sub too much power and we all know that. For that reason its a customer abuse issue, not warranty.We all know why he blew it up but your explanation is still incorrect. If you would go through the topic, from the link you posted, you would see that one person had it correct when he said "I frequently load music files in adobe audition which monitors db levels of the signal. MOST songs I have looked at reach 0db at some point, and some exceed that (clip) frequently, although the average dB level of the entire song is often -10db or less."

It was by over driving the sub. He said that he used a -6db test tone with a scope to set his gains which means that he just applied too much power to the sub and it smoked.