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enjoy the day old man!!! hope it's a good one

see normally i would do something with a sexy girl... but your into scary shit so .. .this was the best i could find.. happy birthday buddy

Fi wanted a premium 4" coil'ed subwoofer and SSA wanted to add a premium 4" coil'ed subwoofer.

My personal opinion is that both subs sound great daily "if that's what you're looking for" and get loud and low doing it (If the enclosure is built correctly) I myself own an Sp4 and a buddy that lives extremely close to me (Sencheezy) owns an evil. I will not go on about how either of us sound better than the other because the setups are totally different. They both sound great in their designed implementations. He is running a crescendo 5500 to his Evil while I run an AQ2200 to my Sp4. He has a huge enclosure with like 180sq (hopefully he will correct me if im off) in of port while I have a small one with like 70sq in, and finally here's the final thing we share in common is that we are both tuned to right at around 31hz and both remain pretty flat on our curves. The truth is the sub is only a small fraction of how well it will sound in what environment you put it in. Just because it has a TC basket and is 18" only means you start off with similarities. The motors are different to start off with, Sp4 has an optional spider spacing and whatnot as well. Hell throw in the Crossfire XSv2 since it has a TC basket. I guess it's the same too right? No, they're all made for different reasons. You have to wear hair gel and sleeveless shirts to rock the crossfire stuff!

First of all, just because a car has a place for a speaker from the factory doesn't mean it HAS to be filled. Second, if you install a subwoofer into the trunk of your car and the trunk is sealed from the cabin of the car (i.e. no place for the pressurized air to go) the forces the sub creates will be wrought on whatever surface it comes in contact with. With 6x9 speakers mounted in the rear deck of a car it's the cones and because the sub is larger, moves more air and has a good deal more force in doing so than the speakers it will move the cones of the 6x9's. That leads to damaged and destroyed 6x9 speakers. Installation is the key in that case. If you can build the sub and it's enclosure to seal up to the cabin of the car at the back seat so that it never pressurizes the trunk then the previous point is moot. No matter what the 6x9's should still only be used for rear fill, or in other words only to play the ambient background reflections that are picked up by the microphone when the music is recorded. There's no good reason to spend money on an amplifier for them to perform that role. Use that money in other places it will be needed such as to buy better front speakers, sound deadening, etc. Capacitors don't work because they don't CREATE power, they leach it. A capacitor has to be charged by the vehicles charging system and it then stores that power inside it. When the voltage drops a little the capacitor will discharge slightly which in turn "stiffens" the voltage or doesn't let it drop but the help stops right there. That little added help lasts for an instant, a split second, that's all. It's voltage will drop with the rest of the system and then when the current demand is over the charging system has to charge the capacitor along with the batteries and everything else. Do that over, and over, and over again and all of a sudden it's no longer doing ANYTHING to help and is hurting because of the load it's creating on the charging system. IF you truly need to upgrade something in your electrical system it's NOT with a capacitor. Start with a GOOD strong starting battery, BIG 3, and clean every ground connection between the engine, frame and body that you can reach. Then if you're still having voltage problems typically it's cheaper to add a second battery than it is to upgrade to a HO alternator. The second battery will help provide additional current during the big demands, but considerably more so than the capacitor but it too is still a load on the system. If you're at the point that your current alternator is unable to keep up with the large demands, especially for prolonged periods then you'll have to look into upgrading it. This is a rough and crude explanation of how all this works but I think it's easy enough to understand. You've not mentioned what kind of power you're looking at running total. Most people are okay with up to 1,500 watts of power on the stock electrical with no extra batteries and sometimes no extra upgrades at all. It's completely dependent on the vehicle, the amps being used and the listening habits of the person. Every combination is different and has different results so it's best to throw a voltage meter on it from the start. Then monitor it and upgrade your electrical as necessary. Going active is when each and every speaker set, usually separates like components, are connected to their own amplifier and each has it's own crossover controlling the frequencies they play. An example would be a pair of tweeters on one amp, the mids on another amp and the sub on another. It takes a processor of some sort to control the crossovers for each set of speakers and a great deal of time listening, adjusting, and tweaking these setups. They're not for beginners and not what you were thinking before this. The idea is to give the user control over every aspect of each set of speakers that cover a specific range of frequencies so that they can be utilized correctly and blend together for a more harmonious response. Your speaker and sub wiring size is fine, unless you're looking to run 3kw or better to your subs, lol. Unless you're looking at running really high power there's no need to worry that much about the wiring size to the subs or speakers. In most daily listening applications those two sizes are fine for those applications. Try to find a substantial piece of steel to connect your ground to. The heavier the steel the better it can flow current. Locations like the tops of the rear shock towers are heavier steel and make a better location to ground to. When it comes to amplifiers in a car it's all about current flow. The better the current flow the better the voltage stays up and the cooler everything operates. Bad grounds and other connections have resistance, resistance leads to voltage drops which in turn increases the current flow and creates heat. Ever seen pictures where people have had a fuse holder melt? That's due to a bad connection and the resistance it causes.

Hmmm, Teric you got me thinking about horns again now, damn you!

Then we installed and put the Memphis on the seat so it could see the sub laughing at it. LOL Got a little bit of sound deadener going in for under the rear seat to trunk area and the trunk lid. And yes, sorry I like AQ/SQ. Almost forgot BIG 3!!! I didn't take any pictures of the back because everything is under the trunk floor. Will do when I rebuild one more time for mids/highs. But the rear is done in the same wire as the front, KNU 1/0 Kollosus Flex, and I have a new neg batt terminal (CE Auto Electric Supply). Here are front pics. I solder all 1/0. Now for the new amp install and actual speaker wires for box. ^^^^^^^Everything ripped out. ^^^^^U know its bad when you have to go to the parts house for audio supplies because your crappy monopoly of a audio shop doesn't know why I would need a dozen at a time. I should have took a pic of the crap they gave me and charged $6 for. Got these for $5. ^^^^^Dropping sub in and getting wires right. New amp, well to me anyway picked this up off DEMO in the for sale section. Sky High Car Audio 1/0 for the amp. Test Fitting my amp rack and the amp. The Amp Rack I fabbed up, this one actually took 15 mins LOL. BAM!!! Clean as hell. Well to me it is. Let me know what you guys think.

Oh and new wheels coming:

Bringing this back from the dead. Audio is starting. Picked this up from Alton: Stance pic: Family shot :

Ermagerd. I love Porsche too much.

1. Yea they have RCA splitters for that. 2. I wouldn't use the rear 6x9s if you're using a sub. 3. It doesn't matter if you run a 5k rms amp on a 500 rms sub lol you will be ok. 4. I don't know if I missed something but I would just run a 2 channel (unless you want to go active then 4 channel) for the front speakers and a mono for the sub. Not sure why you would need all those amps. 5. Fuck the capacitors. It's useless. Someone can explain better than me why they are. 6. Speaker size is good. 7. Same ground is fine. Just make sure it's good and not some flimsy sheet metal. 8/9. Not really sure what else would be missing. Gave advice above! Hope that helps

looks great man!!! any more updates on this? That was the plan.... Man the wait for this sub is excruciating! Especially not having a clue when it's going to show up. I thought for sure I'd have it before I went out of town this weekend on my road trip for my bday.....not looking good....