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Power needed to move the cone to xmax in a particular alignment is RMS power rating. The following is an example. Subwoofer A uses a 8 layer 80mm long coil that weighs 400 grams (total MMs). This sub takes 6,500 watts to hit 35mm in a 5 cubic foot box tuned to 32 hertz. Subwoofer B has the same T/S parameters but uses a 4 layer 80mm long coil that weighs 200 grams (total Mms). Due to the lighter weight this sub only needs 3,200 watts to hit xmax in a 5 cubic foot box tuned to 32 hertz. Couple this with the fact inductance will double with subwoofer A than sub B above 35-40 hertz. Sub B is not only as loud as sub A with 3,000 less watts it will be 2-4 DB louder above 40 hertz due to inductance. This means Sub A would actually need 12,000 watts to be as loud as Sub B on 3,200.

You need to find out what happened to the battery. What exactly did they say was wrong with it? I would call Kinetic, get the warranty work started and get a standard wet cell battery and go from there.

Awesometown... I had a 2007 Jeep Liberty with the turbo diesel motor come in yesterday. It has been to 5 shops, and nobody could get it to run. Nobody could get any communication between any computer on the car with the ECM, TCM, ABS, and SRS brains. I got to it today, just too busy. It literally took me less time to get it running then it did to push it into the shop. One blown fuse, a bad battery, and a SKIM key error. Installed the fuse, found a shorted cell in the battery, and programmed the SKIM in under 15 minutes. 5 fucking shops couldn't find simple shit like that? I guess I could see the SKIM being tough, but IMO it was as simple as seeing the red security LED lit in the dash. He has had 2 ECMs, an ignition switch, an ABS module, a clockspring, both the driver's and passenger's door modules, a crank sensor, all 4 glow plugs, a MAF sensor, a cooling fan assembly, a high pressure AC switch, and an AC compressor clutch installed. I can't fathom the amount of money this guy has into this piece of shit. He wanted a guarantee that we could fix the car. I told him to give me 2 hours and I should have something, but it could go beyond that with all the communication issues (they can be a real motherfucker to figure out sometimes, and I am not a diesel mechanic). He insisted on a guarantee, so I guaranteed that I would have an answer for him for 5 hours of labor, or I would not charge him anything. He knew if it took me 5 minutes he would get charged 5 hours... I let him off easy, I did it for 3 after all was said and done, plus .2 hr for battery install and the cost of the battery and fuse. He nearly shit his pants when we called him to pick up his Jeep about an hour and a half after I got approval. Winning!!!

I just bought 4 of the 12 inch X series subs and will run them off of 2 Rockford Fosgate 2500bdcp amps in a 11 cube net enclosure tuned to 31hz!!

Almost but no. It has nothing to do with the crossover you apply electronically, but the mechanical crossover that occurs because of the box design. The 4th order boxes will have a 24dB/oct slope with NO electronic crossover (of course outside of an SSF it is not so logical to put a HP). This is irregardless of whether it is a normal bass reflex (ported) box or a bandpass. The bandpass has an additional mechanical filter which is a Low Pass that will roll off the higher frequencies as well. Personally I'd much rather apply this filter electronically instead of mechanically as it will allow you to change both the slope and F3 point of the filter. Wouldn't that be an IRREDUNDANCY?

I can rate something at a million watts if you want to buy it

Says who?

do you even own a evil? i find it funny you requesting something bigger .... when you have yet to own the biggest in the series....... come to think of it.. i dont even remember you running a Zcon. you can dislike this now.