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Please stop. That is not a good idea for the OP, not even close. Read the thread before responding. Also surprised you came to that conclusion after your thread regarding the ultracaps which really highlight they don't make sense for you either.

I usually don't tell people what I run. If they are interested I will give them a demo and the reaction is always the same, "what the hell do you have in there!?" Then it's, "Wow, SSA never heard of them." And my favorite is a week later when I get a text saying, "What was the name of that company again?" lol I came across SSA by accident and decided to give them a try. The GCON was in the price point i had set and seemed to fit my goals. Then from the first note it surpassed all of my goals and I was sold. The forum and SSA's customer service were, and continue to be, the icing on the cake and have kept me loyal. P.S.For those who feel price is a little high i say shop around, SSA drivers are priced competitively, but you can't put a price on customer service

Or just help him out and tell him since this is a car audio forum. The Big 3 is upgrading your wire under the hood and leaving factory wire intact: (Add a 1/0 wire or #2 wire like you have now). 1. Wire from positive battery post to positive alternator post. 2. Wire from negative battery post to bolt on the engine block. 3. Wire from negative battery post to bolt on the frame or strut tower, whichever is easier. . This wire should be as close to the alternator as possible if not on the actual casing if there is a bolt for ground. This wire is used in conjunction with the upgraded power wire to battery from alt to properly supply power to the front battery without voltage drop.

Thanks guys, it's great to see the reviews of all of our hard work and dedication to this forum summed up in one thread. Really gives me motivation to do more. One a side note, selling woofers to people in person has been the easiest job of my life. Simply put a driver in someone's hand, and then let them listen to it. The driver does all the work for you. Quality shines through, always.

Wanted to build a stereo. After feeling like I was taking advantage of from a local shop. I decided to search the web and came across SSA that way. Everyone has been super friendly with me and the knowledge on this forum has been a great help. I would recommend SSA to anyone. Everyone here has helped in one way or another with my decisions. I was finally last weekend able to get my setup working and am absolutely blown away by the subwoofers I purchased. I am looking for reasons to drive my car just to listen to them. Thanks again everyone from SSA

No one I know has a clue about anything that isn't Kicker, JL, Rockford, Alpine, etc. They'll say- How'd you end up with that brand? My answer is always that I set out on a search for something better than the everyday setup from best buy... Then I give them a Demo. Most are like "HOLY SH*T!". Nuff Said. Edited due to- i type like a newborn monkey.ugh.

Or just help him out and tell him since this is a car audio forum. The Big 3 is upgrading your wire under the hood and leaving factory wire intact: (Add a 1/0 wire or #2 wire like you have now). 1. Wire from positive battery post to positive alternator post. 2. Wire from negative battery post to bolt on the engine block. 3. Wire from negative battery post to bolt on the frame or strut tower, whichever is easier. .

What is this packaging problem ? I've ordered several SSA subs (3 Xcon 15" and 1 Icon 15"). No problem at all, and they were not sent in those "hard wood packaging". My subs took the plane to Europe, from Las Vegas, then back to the Caribbeans in very good shape I tried USPS, Fedex, UPS,...with no issue. Customer service is amazing. They answer all my emails so fast, I wonder if they sleep or take some week-ends off ! I was talking about that with a friend last friday, while having a demo from his car (4 btl n2 15" on 2 Crescendo 3k5 : breath taking). I won't buy Fi subs anymore, because of their customer service, but my next sub will be an SSA Zcon without a doubt. This caraudio forum is the best I've found so far.

American made quality sub thats gets the job done with force ... if you don't buy one your Taliban / al qaeda and that's a fact

instead of asking why ssa? ask why not ssa

No he hasn't. HE's just been taking nude photos of himself next to his full size George Michael cutout singing "Hungy like a Wolf" at the top of his lungs. THAT is WHY.

If you're experiencing a voltage drop a capacitor will not fix your issue; at least not a practical amount of them. You would likely need 100's if not 1000's. This is just one of those things where if anyone has one or is telling you to get one they are either flat out wrong or just trying to get you to buy their product. A larger/second battery MAY fix your issue. How everything is grounded and the general conductivity of your electrical system may also be a factor.

Honesty, Integrity, and Customer Service. Also keep in mind that I have been in car audio since 1987 and have never met a group of guys more committed to the cause of doing the right things reguarless of profit.

I thought that only happened to me. That is the funniest thing ive heard all day

My answer was always 'why not? A friend owns the company, the product kicks ass, and the cost is reasonable.' J

Name me one manufacture that does not import a single piece of material for their speaker line.Fi,ssa,aa are about the closest they come, as they machine their own parts. Please don't take the defensive, I'm just clarifying. I agree with you about 90 percent, but that domestic machining that SSA performs is a major plus towards the Made in USA stamp and I think it gets overlooked.Not defensive at all. I agree with you completely.Perhaps I thought you were talking about the assembly of the driver here in the states vs. In China. All I was stating in my first post it that just because its put together here does not make it better quality. Ssa is definitely an industry leader when you think of "made in America"

we are actually working on a "WHY SSA" page as I type. Aaron has been word-smithing this for a little while now.

you sound bored, build a new box, .. a better design and tune lower. it will be like a whole new stereo

Well- went to install the IA...and it is just a scosh larger in outside diameter- and I cut my top baffle to JUST fit the Xcon. ugh. Gonna have to figure out the solution,,,maybe I can find a rabbit bit to enlarge the outer baffle hole. But til then- everyone likes sub comparison pics right? pre '13 IA Death Row 18 vs SSA Xcon 18 If you look above the DR- you can see where my tweeter dangling from my Coaxial mounted in the roof.LOL Death Row leads Xcon leads IA's booty shot...I like the cast in flutes on the basket... Xcon Booty shot IA Coil shot...couldn't get the Xcons due to lighting Well that's all I got for right now- Singer said my alternator is on schedule. I am working over this hitch, so I won't be off til the 20th, then back to work on the 23rd....hopefully I'll have my alt by then, and I'll get the box squared, and I'll me done.LOL Then on to the BURB!

Yay- the trimming worked! IA's are permanently(unless I go be and sound deaden, highly likely), and the door panels are installed without further issue. Now just to find a 2.5mm allen wrench to wire the amp. left mine in the amp box at home. Looking forward to the drive home tomorrow(5hrs) and tuning in the new mids and tweets. The finished product. Before installing the door panel. If I pull it apart to do the sound deadening- I'll use wood rings to mount them....didn't have the ability to do this at work.

Been a minute since I updated this. My IA 6.5 components arrived 2 weeks ago. So, Last weekend at home my son and I ran the wires into the front doors. This was a huge PITA. The factory wiring enters the cab real high- so without pulling the dash- it can’t be accessed. So we just ran it thru the opening to the kick panel cover. Once we got that done we went to install the mids, and realized the IA's are much bigger than the undersized 6.5's in the Zuks doors.ugh. Just stuck the factory speak back in for the drive to work. Forward to today, It is a slow day here at work. So I decided to try to finish running the wires to the amp, and see what I can do with the 6.5's. Got the wires finished (except for connected them to the amp- but they are there). So I pulled the door panels, pulled the factory mids and the mounting parts. Got to looking and figure that if I flipped the factory mount and done some trimming, I might could make it work...these pics are what ensued. Redneck wiring- but it doesn't show any sign of being pinched. Factory front speaker, you can see the tweeter mounted too. Factory speaker bucket modified for the IA Mid Before and after without the speaker before/after A little blurry- phone wouldn't focus for some reason. Once I got to this point the door panels wouldn't fit, of course.LOL Had to trim the excess from around the mid, and I trimmed some from the back of the door panel, but didn't get to retry due to I stripped the screws I was using to mount the bucket to the door. Will try to work on it some more tomorrow.

Well got the power and ground ran for the 85.4.- but think I am going to do some slight adjustment to make it a little cleaner looking when I get home. Didn't ru a remote wire due to I have KNu Bassic RCA's headed to my house, and I will run a new remote wire then. Also found out today that my left rear speaker is DOA...gotta figure that out. Going to run the IA 6.5's off the 85.4 active, and the rears off the HU for rear fill, mostly so I don't have to turn it up for my kids to hear in the back seat. I did get some more listening time today, and Drakes 'No New Friends' came on(run my 5gb of music on random from my jump drive). Holy Cow! Talk about slammed. Blurred my vision, My mirror vibrated off. I love this sub. Tirn the bass knob all the way down- and it sounds clear and light, them turm the knob up and shake the truck apart. It truly does it all well. Oh Yeah - pics from today....

I didn't do a rear facing port due to the fact that is practically right up against the rear door. But it sounds GREAT. It really likes the lower stuff...but plays up to the x-over point of 80 very well. The Skar amp is rated for ~1600 watts; You can tell I am not even stressing the woofer at all. Clean all the way to the top of my volume range. Personally I'd like to see what ~ 2200-2500 would do, to have a lil overhead. It has me rethinking my amp choices I planned for the suburban. Made my first SSA store purchase today. Some IA 6.5 components. yay!

Okay- got the bass control hooked up. Pics from today.

joe79- After hearing mine for the first time tonight- you will not be disappointed. Smashedz28- I know right...The magnet it about as big as 1 on my GS 10" woofers....then you have the reast of the sub.LOL UPDATE: Man- the past couple days have been something else. Yesterday - Got it fit into the Zuk. Tight fit- but it was supposed to be. I can honestly say I made the most of the space available. Wired up the amp backwards in a hurry...I just wasn't thinking at all. Went to hook up the power lead, and ofcourse it arc'ed. I was like WTF? and realized what I done. Fixed it. Hooking the power leads of again and where it arc'ed on the lug, the nut seized up. Tryed working it back and forth, stripped out the bolt on the lead lug....destroyed the lug working the bolt out- as I had to get on the road to work. Once I got it out I was able to break the bolt and tape up the leads for the drive to work. On the upside- got to work, and my SK 85.4 was sitting in my quarters waiting on me. I ordered Distribution blocks and wire to hook it up today. Will get it mounted on the box tomorrow. Today- after I got off- I when to AutoZone and bought some 2 and 4 gauge 3/8" terminals, and utilized a terminal with a post. Cut the + battery terminal off(stock and already was cracked), and found that the 1/0 terminals I had fit the factory wires perfect. The trip to AZ was for nothing.LOL Crimped, taped, installed along with the Audio wires. Finally. BOOM. Took a lil ride to dial it in some....All I can say- 1 xcon 18 = DAMN!!!! First system I ever had that you felt the pressure....not just vibration...but like it is squeezing you for being in it's space. Not even dialed in, and it is incredible. loud and clear. I'll never go back to mainstream subs.LOL Now to decide what mid/highs to run. People seem to like the IA's. Thinking components for the fronts and coaxials in the rear. Here are the pics from yesterday- Nevermind the box- will pull it back out to cover it. The black paint does make it 'disappear' behing my tinted windows. Will get some installed pics tomorrow after work. Makes the 10" GS's look pathetic.LOL The router depth lock failed on the round over for the port- will clean it up next hitch home. Had to hear it, couldn't wait. Flush first time using the bolt method This was waiting on me in my quarters- Cool thing is that now I have a bass knob for my 1500.LOL

Well a little update- Sub arrived today- easily the most impressive piece of audio equipment I have ever owned. Pics don't do these Subs justice. The box looked HUGE sitting on out table until I set the sub on it. DANNNG! Got the holes cut for the box and the top baffle done and on. the last pic is the sub and tool box are provide some press weight. Some pics- I guess tomorrow- We'll see if I resist the urge to throw it in the Zuk, for the ride to work this week uncarpeted.LOL

Do your friends seriously question you when you make an audio recommendation? Mine wouldn't, ask for some help explaining it to the wife though. To pitch through a demo is so related to the install the value is dubious although of course to any noob that is the only value. Always makes me laugh. That being said I get a lot of questions about what sub is in my boat.

uhhh.... duh....

here's a few I made up, some are classic, some are smart ass... I'm open to any ideas that will stir things up out there and get us some traffic. so post up ideas, i'll keep posting them as I make them. 2011 SIGNATURES --------------------------------------------------- [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/2011/sigs_ssa_dcon.png][/url] [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/2011/sigs_ssa_xcon.png][/url] [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/2011/sigs_ssa_zcon.png][/url] 2010 SIGNATURES --------------------------------------------------- [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/got_power_animated.gif][/url] [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/icon/"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/08sigs/1.png][/url] [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/08sigs/2.png][/url] [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/icon/"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/08sigs/3.png][/url] [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/"][img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/08sigs/4.png][/url] [url="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/"][img=http://soundsolutionsaudio.com/pics/signatures/2010sigs/chrome-ssa-signature.jpg][/url] Just copy and paste the BB code below the sig you want to use, and paste it in the sig. section on what ever forum you're in. Done. P.S. Some of the animated banners won't work on CA.com due to the size of them.

Just had to get back in a old truck. Traded my 60 Biscayne for this well done 71 C10. It's a mild 355cu and a TH400 trans. All new interior, paint is only a couple years old. I was alittle unsure of the wheels but after having it a couple days and the reaction this truck gets I think I will just lower it more and leave it alone. I really like this 70's muscle look. Out with the old In with the new Needs some sounds although the cam sounds killer in this truck. Looks like a head unit, 4 channel and components are in order.

Looking for suggestions on which sub would be better suited for my situation. I have right at 6 cubes after all displacements, figuring on 82 square inches of port tuned to 33hz. Power will not be an issue with either sub, current plan is one or two PPI Black Ice 1800s. Electrical will consist of 270A alt and 2 D3100s. Going into a very well deadened 99 Ram Quad Cab. The reason for the limited space is I'm attempting to keep a small seat area on either side and run the enclosure centered on the back seat, seat bottom to ceiling. With that setup the only wat I can realistically pull it off is to have both sub and port forward. I figure I'll center the sub between the front seats and have the port at the top parallel to the ceiling. Not sure if that will work well or not - this will be the first time I've installed anything in a truck. I'm assuming with the cabin area I have and the excursion of these subs it should be pretty nasty - that's the goal anyway, loud, low, and move a lot of air. Any ideas or suggestions wil be greatly appreciated.

look into a bank of ultracaps. here is a picture of a few bans together of ultracaps that was used at finals this year https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=646642788689895&set=a.619698871384287.1073741826.492850837402425&type=1&ref=nf

Seriously not a single response in over 24hrs on the manufacturers own supposed forum? This place has gone downhill I guess...

Due the last thread having serious loading issues and bogging down the server, we started this continuation of the original. Carry on....