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I guess i must be a genius then... I run 500w per 8" driver of the pro audio series and they are only rated for 200wrms. IF you do not know how to handle the power you have, then failure will occur.

Well, with as broad of a question as this, i'm assuming you know nothing about troubleshooting so i'll go down the list of things to check. 1st, Is their subs in your vehicle? Do you have at least 1 battery in the car? Does the car start up everyday? Do you have speaker wire going to the subs? Is the wire connected to the box? Push down on your subs evenly and listen to rubbing, is it rubbing metal anywhere? Pull the subs out and see if they are connected to the subs still Do you have an amp? Does the wire go to the amp? Does the amp come on? Is the protection light on the amp? Is the fuse(s) blown on the amp or on the power wire? Does your head unit work? is there rcas going into the amp? If so, unplug them with stereo off and plug up another source to your amp like a cell phone and see if that works. Once you go through al that, then we can begin troubleshooting.

The perception of "fast" is all in your alignment...

Subbass is inherently slow and muddy. There's no such thing as "fast" sub bass. If you want that quick punch and snap, you are focusing on the wrong thing. What you are looking for is called midbass. Focus on your midbass drivers.

If this is a extended or crew cab truck then do subs forward port up. That will give you best overall sound/spl IMO. Although the loudest truck around here runs subs up port to the driverside and is doing damn near 60's with 2 18's. This was my box from my truck with two 18's. It was 14.5cu ft with 207sqin of port tuned at 30hz. It was a ground pounder for sure. Box is huge. If it would fit your build you could save all the headache and buy it.

Welcome. Sb3 just changed this year allowing 3 15s. Last year that would have been sb4. Same class for me now.

All drivers have power compression. That doesn't neglect the efficiency rating.

You are forgetting acoustics my friend.The post wasn't meant to be entirely technical. But touche. 1w SPL means nothing, though, since all subs react differently to varying amounts of power. Umm, wrong. It means exactly what it is, efficiency is related to output per watt. Doesn't mean manufacturers measure it appropriately for the task at hand. Todd, the answer is really rather simple. Box size & cheap power. PA drivers need a ton of space and while they run with less power, power is cheap so why waste all the space. I have an awesome car audio errr pro audio driver in my basement. The first "beast" subs were pro audio subs that were slightly massaged for car audio applications, but this is when a 1000w amp was rare so you just dealt with the needed box size since it was the best choice. Actually, different loudspeakers react differently to different power levels. I'm sure you've heard of power compression. The efficiency rating is nothing more than the output at 1w/1m. It does not always tell how the loudspeaker will perform with more power. Nice way to try to spin that lol. Ignore it all you like. I am very aware of power compression.

You are forgetting acoustics my friend. The post wasn't meant to be entirely technical. But touche. 1w SPL means nothing, though, since all subs react differently to varying amounts of power. Umm, wrong. It means exactly what it is, efficiency is related to output per watt. Doesn't mean manufacturers measure it appropriately for the task at hand.Todd, the answer is really rather simple. Box size & cheap power. PA drivers need a ton of space and while they run with less power, power is cheap so why waste all the space. I have an awesome car audio errr pro audio driver in my basement. The first "beast" subs were pro audio subs that were slightly massaged for car audio applications, but this is when a 1000w amp was rare so you just dealt with the needed box size since it was the best choice. Actually, different loudspeakers react differently to different power levels. I'm sure you've heard of power compression. The efficiency rating is nothing more than the output at 1w/1m. It does not always tell how the loudspeaker will perform with more power.

It is 90% install, 10% beer.

Waiting on 1 last battery. Put an amp up without the bottom rack just to see what it will look like

If the parameters are accurate, they can be useful. However they often aren't accurate, and even if they are accurate, will change significantly as the suspension loosens up. Personally I'm more concerned with SPL at this point in my life. At my listening levels, it's impossible to discern small imperfections in sound. I can understand your side of the argument, but it simply doesn't apply so much to my listening habits as it does your own. why would any reputable company publish inaccurate specs? I was going to post something showing how you're constructing a straw man argument to defend your position but I think that would be lost on you. The fact of the matter is, assuming the T/S specs were measured correctly, we can predict how a woofer will behave. Its physics. You would be surprised. Side note, most of these "reputable companies" nowadays pay a buildhouse to do everything... There are very few companies doing a lot on their own. Do you trust Chinese specs? Because I don't. Personally, my subs have a fat "Made in the USA" sticker on the motor. we're on SSA so its pretty obvious what subs i'm talking about when i say reputable.

If the parameters are accurate, they can be useful. However they often aren't accurate, and even if they are accurate, will change significantly as the suspension loosens up. Personally I'm more concerned with SPL at this point in my life. At my listening levels, it's impossible to discern small imperfections in sound. I can understand your side of the argument, but it simply doesn't apply so much to my listening habits as it does your own. why would any reputable company publish inaccurate specs? I was going to post something showing how you're constructing a straw man argument to defend your position but I think that would be lost on you. The fact of the matter is, assuming the T/S specs were measured correctly, we can predict how a woofer will behave. Its physics.

If the parameters are accurate, they can be useful. However they often aren't accurate, and even if they are accurate, will change significantly as the suspension loosens up. Personally I'm more concerned with SPL at this point in my life. At my listening levels, it's impossible to discern small imperfections in sound. I can understand your side of the argument, but it simply doesn't apply so much to my listening habits as it does your own.

Actually sensitivity and efficiency are well defined and easily calculated with TS parameters independent of manufacturer sensitivity ratings. A manufacturer can try to fudge their sensitivity spec, but as long as you have the TS parameters it is very easy to accurately calculate: Sensitivity (SPL) = 112 + 10*Log(9.64 * 10^(-10) * Fs^3 * Vas / Qes) *Vas in liters That's assuming the TS parameters are accurate. It's a sad but true fact that a bunch of the popular mass produced Chinese subs can stray pretty far from their published specs... Which is why I tend to avoid said brands.

Power compression ranged from ~1 to 7dB in a test done by JBL.

If the parameters are accurate, they can be useful. However they often aren't accurate, and even if they are accurate, will change significantly as the suspension loosens up. Personally I'm more concerned with SPL at this point in my life. At my listening levels, it's impossible to discern small imperfections in sound. I can understand your side of the argument, but it simply doesn't apply so much to my listening habits as it does your own. why would any reputable company publish inaccurate specs? I was going to post something showing how you're constructing a straw man argument to defend your position but I think that would be lost on you. The fact of the matter is, assuming the T/S specs were measured correctly, we can predict how a woofer will behave. Its physics. You would be surprised. Side note, most of these "reputable companies" nowadays pay a buildhouse to do everything... There are very few companies doing a lot on their own. Do you trust Chinese specs? Because I don't. Personally, my subs have a fat "Made in the USA" sticker on the motor.

I'm jealous.