Leaderboard

Starts with Six, ends with Fifteen...

I am being told all current drivers will ship this week along with your replacement. Stuff happens but I can't micro manage these types if issues when they are being built 300 miles away from me. If I currently had all my parts with me I would have been able to have a brand new driver sent out the same day. I am also working with a local certified packaging manufacture that tells me they will be able to certify the packages per UPS's 6 foot drop test.

I wouldn't advise anyone to do a three way active setup their first go around. Active vs Passive (quick info) Passive means the crossover points and slopes are fixed for each speaker, normally in a crossover box. All the work is done by the crossover box and comes in between the speaker and amp. Just like your traditional component set. Active means the crossover points and slopes are variables for each speaker, until you find what sounds best to you. The crossover points and slopes can be adjusted or tweaked by using an active capable head unit, dsp or active capable amplifier. The head unit is the best because its at your fingertips for on the go changes. A dsp can be fun and packed with a lot of features. An amplifier can be used as well until you get more equipment, it will be harder to know exactly where you are crossed over at. Basically your turning your head unit, dsp or amplifier to a crossover box that comes with a component set if you went that route. Hopefully that makes sense this early in the morning. This way your not stuck buying over priced components and it allows you to pick drivers based off your needs and wants. Sites like madisound.com, parts-express.com and usspeaker.com are great sites to choose raw drivers from. Im no expert in choosing drivers but once you get a better handle on running active, make a topic and their are plenty of members here who will lend a hand. The silverflutes are nice budget beginner drivers but depending on your listening habits may or may not be enough output for you. Would it hurt to grab a pair for the price and practice going active, no it wouldnt. No, I only have them in the door in the factory location.

6 15" ethos! I'm guessing

Just so that its clear to "M5" I understand that my head unit will not suffice. I new this from before I even starting this thread. My thinking was I wanted to share what I currently had for comparisson reasons only, silly me. This is my thread I created and wanted to post MY units specs as well. I hope that your intellect and arrogance about audible noise is no reflection of who you are in real life just a mirage of how it comes across on the cpu screen. I inparticular came to this web site for everyones knowledge but you sir make it frustrating to learn sometimes. My 2 cents. end rant I wanted to share that I have chosen to install the peerless 8" SLS and Dayton Audio DC28F tweeter. After some discussion with a fellow IAK member on sunday he said the peerless was a proven winner and also with ALTONS advise I felt this would be a good starting point. Also after some googling and reading of reviews on the tweeter its not a superior model but has great reviews for its price point, its has rebuildable parts, & should be a good starter tweeter. This is where I will start. My current plan is to build and install my door pods then I will order the 80prs to truly move forward with this build. I will post results as I go. Thanks to all for the advise and any further advise in my crusade for a better sounding vehicle.

Sorry buddy, there aren't many bass noobs here. Might wanna try smd or cawkhoe

First off, WOW!! These Xcons sound soo smooth and clean! I just wish I had gotten into quality gear sooner. Like one stated earlier, they're giving me a boner...haaa The car is also rattling soo much less now with subs now firing into the cabin...love it!! Deadening is still coming soon too though. First I need to address my electrical needs. At idle, car is 14.4v. At full tilt with a BC2000 I'm dropping to low 11s. This is obviously no good and I'm not wanting to even crank it until I get a new alt & battery. Here's what I'm thinking: Mechman 320a alt & a XS D3100?? Good combo together? If I'm getting just 1 rear battery is the D3100 large enough? An engine bay battery is on the list eventually, but I'd like to keep running the yellow top up there for now. I really don't want more than 2 batteries, as all this equipment is already heavy enough for this car. I'm planning on either the AQ3500 or Crescendo 3500 for sub amp, and still undecided on front stage amp, Lets say 800w for front amp for now. I'm ready to buy stuff tomorrow, as I just can't wait to hear these Xcons at 14v.

after rise, I'd put money on the MMATS.