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///M5
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altoncustomtech
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Cj the newbie
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Thumpper
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/21/2016 in all areas
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The understanding you need to run active you should also have if you install your own system. There are very few adjustments you need to make in a 2 way, but it isn't trivial. Taking the time to learn and plan and understand is huge, but the end result will destroy a comp set for even less budget. Component sets are almost always a rip off. There are lots on here to help...3 points
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2 pointsHere's some examples of baffles. Both examples exceeded the depth behind the door card which required modifying it.
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2 pointsto the origional poster...... you have choosen one of the best component sets period , now do some research and work on those doors , there are a few decent build logs around that you can look at to get an Idea what to do to properly deaden the doors and mount a baffle I had 2 sets of these puppies in my last system ...... and as soon as the $$ allows they will be in my current install2 points
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Cooling in a mid can be more important than a sub. Can is only because everyone has a tendency to drive them closer to their thermal limit. Subs have tons of heat soak capability, not all mids do.2 points
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It isn't about being easy in your case, but close minded. You are asking questions expecting us to agree and when we don't you ignore the advice. The rears are a waste, cut them out!2 points
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2 pointsYes you can make it work. .10 isn't hard to overcome I just did it recently myself. My JL C2 61/2's where just a little to big for the depth so I used a gasket to bring it out a little and it worked fine. As long as your just the least bit handy you can make that work.2 points
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1 pointHello once again! I've had my eyes drooling (yes this makes no sense but roll with it) over a component set of JBL 670 GTi's. Though I ran into a problem. With my knowledge only beginning to spark in the car audio field I've been using Crutchfield as almost a cheat sheet in finding if something fits my vehicle, and they said this set would not, as well did the JBL site. Though their reasoning was only that the depth of the speaker was slightly off (refer to picture). Is this an easy to fix problem?? Or has the pooch been screwed?? Thank you to anyone who replies!
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1 pointOr if you really want killer response building an enclosure will really do the trick. This is a .5cuft ported enclosure tuned to 65hz.
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1 pointI might end up sharing that opinion, though this is my first time rehauling my sound system so I figure I might try to do all the bells and whistles and see if it is worth it in my opinion which is half the fun of learning!1 point
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That's great to hear, ask any questions you need? What vehicle is this, will you get an active capable headunit such as a Pioneer 80PRS, or a processor such as a mini-dsp or jbl ms-8, what locations for speakers do you intend to use, any fabrication skills involved such as glassing doors/pillars, budget for mids and tweeters? Just a few questions to get you started.1 point
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I'm seeking to learn the knowledge you keep bringing up but I have no one personal to learn from, and forums can be generic and/or they are too focused on one thing to learn enough from. I want to learn how to do a proper set up. From location, wiring, baffles, speakers, deadening, etc. etc. Just trying to find something to get me there1 point
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Its not to hard especially if you have an active capable head unit1 point
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1 pointYou should be making a baffle for the mids anyway so that would bring it out so you should be fine with them1 point
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Mms (moving mass) decreases so parameters change slightly, Fs will increase a little, efficiency will go up a little, Qts will change, etc. As Sean said the Sd (cone area) is slightly less, so Vas will go down a little and peak output potential will go down a little. Also the behavior of the cone will be a little different. The dust cap stiffens the cone slightly and changes the resonance behavior of the cone itself. And the obvious...it's easier to get shit in the voice coil gap which could ruin the speaker.1 point
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1 pointOne component set will be fine, best way to see what you like is to visit stores and listen to what they have. Or you could buy raw drivers, meaning purchasing your mids seperate from your tweeters which will come without crossovers. You will need an active capable headunit or processor/mini dsp to set up your crossover settings etc. Madisound.com Partsexpress.com Usspeaker.com1 point
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1 pointTake a step back. No rears, no dash speakers. Unplug that shit. Will just make it sound like crap. Front speakers will be whatever impedance you buy. No matter at all what the stock are since you have an aftermarket h/u.1 point
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Go to you tube and watch tutorials and read what experienced installers are doing not just people trying to sell you 20 year old designs with a new name put on it. Heck go to the JL site they go over this stuff in detail in there how to's so does crutchfield. Some really good info in there it won me some throphy's and that and first hand experience is how I learned.0 points
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Everybody on here swears by the active set but I'm just gonna run components in front and coaxial's in the back it's easier for me but that just me. It's what I have always done and it sounds fine to me. I guess it just depends on what kind of system your going for.0 points
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-1 pointsLooks pretty good to me but I'm not there in person. If it looks good from 10 foot away I call it good. My new car and build has a couple of flaws but from 10 feet away it looks perfect. It's hard to keep a daily driver perfect. I met my woman at a store one day in my work car and she was driving our show car and sure enough a guy in a huge full size suv backs right into the show car setting 3 feet from the hooptie work car and just drives off. I was so pissed I was like he could have totaled the work car and I wouldn't have cared but he nails the one that cost piles of money then speeds away. We watched the stores cameras but he had a plastic cover over his plate so you couldn't read it. Bastard he was.-1 points
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-1 pointsStarting to think these guys are just messing with everyone. Yes you can buy baffles all day long, just go to sonic electronics they will send you all you want in two days plus the spacers, gaskets, or what ever M5 wants to call them. I litterely just did the same thing last night using a baffle, second skin, foam gaskets and a spacer from sonic, sounds superb no vibration no nothing just crystal clear mid range.-1 points
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-1 pointsYour ignorance reeks of troll. Either it is intentional or you really need to actually try something for once before you comment. The bigger the baffle the better, the more mass the better, the more solid you can make your door the better. Give me a $100 budget for speakers and a $100 processor and a good install and it will DESTROY a $5,000 component set bolted in the stock mount. Seriously, like not even in the same ballpark. More than half your front stage budget should be in the install. Deadener, CCF, MLV, Baffle, Clay or other mass, and of course doing whatever you need to help the aiming so that it is appropriate for what drivers you bought.-1 points
