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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/27/2016 in all areas

  1. That was all installation, would have been real close with a BTL in similar optimal conditions. That install obviously also sounded like crap... Power is not the way to output, nor is some driver. It is all install. No matter what Speakerboy does replacing a driver with one that is close to 1/3 the Sd is not going to end up in comparable output across the frequency range. If he wants a fart cannon, er one note wonder, to replace it then we could discuss but something musical no way.
  2. all you need now is a lift and to do an epoxy resin floor coating!
  3. 2 points
    Your posts give me the giggles buddy. I literally don't have an insult for you that I think you'd be able to make sense of Speakers are pretty simple, they do what they are told to do. That being said, I know I've blackened a few coils thinking I was still putting out clean power, but I'm a little hard on my equipment, I know this. I would say for sure get it reconed, and try it out on a different 2k, and see how it sounds. You most likely have, but have you tried different box orientations? Forward sounds cleanest in my truck, up is loudest, and back is the quietest, but the easiest to blend with the mids. If you have the space, try it out. The surround being gnarled is a bummer, I can't even imagine what happened, I can't say I've seen that in person.
  4. I decided it was time to build a garage to work on Aaron's cars and build box's for SSA sub-woofers. At some point I will have an APM2 to meter cars. Without further to do here are the pictures of my progress,
  5. I have about $16k in this building.
  6. congrats on the new shop. will be nice to work in comfort.
  7. It looks great Neal. Lots of space!
  8. Compared to an 18" BTL those are baby woofers. Will be a HUGE step down. It is really hard to replace all that cone area, nearly 3x in fact. That and the BTL in general is a better choice for his application than the DD anyways.
  9. How about we start over and focus on what you are trying to do and what parts we can help with.
  10. Might I add that Arthur Clinton will be my right hand mechanic.
  11. Stone tamped and vapor barrier down.
  12. I have 46 ton of 2B stone in the base of this building.
  13. 1 point
    I've had no problem with any of the SSA or Fi subs I had. Me and my friends have ran a few of them, and we are more and more happy ! I try to not abuse my equipments, but I can't speak for my friends !!!
  14. A little Sunday fun day. Church, then Traeger vs BGE brisket.
  15. Haha yeah ok No need to admit your accolades and stop saying pro's and please stop getting in your feelings. Either take the answers and use them or move on, its that simple. But resorting to name calling just shows your maturity.
  16. Might have to do a new build log for my building.
  17. 18" BTL will not be replaced by a 12"
  18. Adding the 3.5's and the 6x9's do nothing with helping the system "keep up", they do completely fuck up the sound stage though. You CANNOT run the same amp in parallel to the 3 1/2" and the 6 1/2" speakers. That will really sound like shit. Seems like everything you've read elsewhere has you very confused on what to do. You should re-evaluate what you thought you knew before spending/wasting any more money. The JL 6x9's and 3 1/2's are garbage btw...
  19. He is using his COMPLETELY differently You just need to hear any car that stages right and sounds good and you'll be enlightened.
  20. It isn't what I consider, but what it is. Rear fill would be with some logical band pass and filtering such that the rears don't destroy the front stage. As for the four corner question, no it is a terrible idea. If you had music that was specifically recorded in four channel you could make the argument it could make sense although it is much more logical to not use the rears at all. See the picture of the soundstage up earlier in this thread. I have an Escalade. It is HUGE compared to your car. The rears are not at all connected to the stereo. No rear passenger ever complains either. Adding the rears doesn't make it louder, just makes it sound worse. There are no compelling reasons to run rears playing the same source as the fronts. Complete waste of money. Add to that the market for 6x9's is teeny so all the choices are garbage. You really don't want rears. You will have the same problem if you add dash speakers to your components. Will just screw things up. If instead you ran a bandpassed midbass in the doors and a full range driver in the dash perhaps, but bouncing tweeter frequencies off the window is really hard to get to sound good so then you'd need a 3 way which is rather complicated. Just bridge your amp to the front components you have and when it is missing something ask how to improve it. Everything else you propose to do is a waste of cash.
  21. How is the install? Normally when you think it sounds better with rears it means the front install is jacked. Interested in pictures of the baffle, deadening, mlv....sure we can help fix it so you can sell off those rears happily.
  22. Do NOT run a 6.5 and a 3.5 in parallel on an amp. That would be idiotic.
  23. You are missing the point completely. Comparing a crap install with or without the rears will tell you nothing. Fix what you have first!! And as for your other question. Yes pretty much all car components are lame. I havent run a comp set in my car since the late 80's
  24. Raw drivers chosen for their environment, aiming and frequency response with a processor to run the crossover and eq.
  25. Hell no especially not from you, haha thanks for the laugh this morning. But yes if I were in your shoes with all these knowledgeable people giving me advice I would but again me and you are different people.
  26. Perhaps you could see this from a different light. You were very decided on what exactly you wanted to do and asked for verification it was the right thing. When it wasn't agreed that your method was the right choice you took everything as an attack when we are just trying to show you that you are making decisions without understanding the best path for success. It has nothing at all to do with being a champ and everything with wanting to learn. If you don't want to learn, why bother asking a question?
  27. Or perhaps you need to go to a region that is competitive. I competed in the late 80's and 90's and NEVER ran components then either. 3 15's, a single midbass, single midrange and tweeter per side. Times haven't changed, just some installations were always better than others. Anyone who competes in SQ with just a set of components, fails....although they will beat the guy with two sets.
  28. Umm, no. Buying a single driver that works good in a location is not a "component set". A component set can indeed include raw drivers. Good example is the Alpine F1 status set. It consists of a Scan Speak Revelator mid and a Scan Speak D2904 tweeter. Retail on the mid is $200, retail on the tweeter about the same. Alpine then slapped together some shitty ass crossover to mate with them and sold them for $5,000 as a component set. A set includes the drivers and the crossover. I will never buy another compromised crap ass car audio crossover ever in my life. Last time I did was in the 80's. I see no reason in it. Of course, it is easier to not.
  29. Gasket is pointless. Build a baffle, fix your install. You say you like having a rear stage as well, what I read is you don't like your front stage. Stop talking about the rears and liking them and instead fix the front so you don't. It is really easy and will be a monster revelation to you once done. The rears add nothing and make the front stage worse. No ifs ands or buts.
  30. Just look at the numbers it will give you some idea of how loud and what it might sound like. Vas, BL all that stuff.

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