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My first guess would be a lose power wire behind the head unit. More specifically the red wire. Would clear all your presets if it was a ground or yellow wire. Possibly a loose shitty connection. Could be a poorly installed crimp connector, or a poor connection on one of the plugs themselves. The poor connection would be likely to poor wire routing, pulling or pushing on a plug. Not necessarily the plug itself. I would hope it's that simple for you, because it could turn into an electrical gremlin after that. Lol

haha

I changed the tweeters. I found a good deal on a pair of Davis Acoustics TWX DF. They sound good, I like them so far. They are titanium dome tweeters. They are so clean, and ...accurate. I don't know how to say it, but I feel they are more hifi oriented than my previous Focal set. They fit well in the stock location , on the dash. But I managed to aim them way less on the windshield. They just fit very, very tight, without any screw ! I found they were sounding better like that, rather than before (aiming at the windshield). Crossed at 3500 Hz, 24dB.

Here are pics of the piece of wire I had for the big 3 5+ alt to + batt) : I took it out. The alternator is regulated, I'll let it work ! I kept the grounds only, for the big3.

Hey, ho, that is TEENY. Alongside my annoyingly new passport. Other one was out of pages so I had to up it early.

The PRS will do sub, bandpass and high pass. Has 16 independent L AND R eq. Unless you have exotic drivers with strange anomalies or cross points (yours don't btw) it will be a ton of processing already. I would never recommend ever buying a processor with more capability unless it is capability that you know you need. Otherwise you will just confuse yourself and lengthen the learning curve instead of shortening it. More simply, with the drivers you have I couldn't even rationalize more processing than the prs unit.* *doesn't mean I wouldn't do it, but that is also different since I could care less about the non-RCA sources on the "headunit" anyways.

Won't pair up like that, but we couldn't tell if you were going to scrap the 360, use it, what settings you'd need, etc... I suppose my statement above isn't completely correct. The double din in my car would control it, but I run a full Windows PC in my car. Outside of that I don't think you'll find anything that will control it, but if you are using it for the processing it makes the double DIN search easier as you should look for a GUI you like and the functions you want.

So it used to work with the 360? Then you should be able to get it working again. Most likely a loose wire or connection.

I'd isolate it and check the leads independent. ie, check the source from the h/u and then change the source to a phone or the like and see when/what it does.

Use a different source on the input of the 360. ie, your phone. See if that works.

How could you use the crossovers if you couldn't set them??

Just get the el cheapo one with the speaker included. Like $30 and keeps the chimes by playing them through it's own speaker and not your stereo. Doesn't sound as good, but they are fucking chimes. Not where I'd spend $100 extra. ....and yes I have one of said el cheapo's

I didn't do the steering wheel controls so mine is barebones. I needed a joycinn for that since I use a carpc

I also wouldn't buy that amp. I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow. Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power. RMS or nothing. Shady as hell.

It is a disgusting lie to list max. I wouldn't do business with them. No way no how. Tons of good brands.

Perhaps a planned layout would answer your question. Everything is specific to YOUR car so generically answering if a kit is okay isn't going to help. Hopefully one of these times you read YOUR you will finally get it.

Ha. I've seen manufacturers claim 150w peak on a 10w rms amp. Shady bullshit. Either way don't buy that Crap and STOP thinking you need 100w for your speakers as that is irrelevant as well. Just buy good amp.

You will hear absolutely no difference between 65w and 110w RMS. There are a ton of good brands. Just don't buy ANY that advertise max. That is crap. And you NEVER look at the max watts. Easy enough to say that a 50w RMS amp makes 1000w peak and make it happen, but it will net you nothing positive in the sound. Power also tells you jack about the battery or wiring size, at least not without a stated efficiency. You need to stop looking at ANY numbers pretty much. Reputable products that are built well and will be serviced are the target, not some marketing bullshit numbers.

NO, DO NOT BUY AN AMP THAT DOESN'T HAVE THE RMS LISTED. NEVER EVER!! I understand you want to buy what you thought you found and were looking for re-assurance on a car audio forum, but you won't get it and if you keep asking the same question trying to force an answer that will never come people will stop reading your threads and taking you seriously. We can't help you, only you can help you and it is starting to seem like you don't want help. Please prove me wrong.

The noise floor in your car is ridonkulous compared to a dedicated listening room. You won't hear a difference between A/B or D or T, there is no real standard for testing power or reporting it at a certain voltage and companies are shady, once you've got enough power so you aren't railing the rails you'll have plenty of dynamics. So sure, when in doubt go for more power but don't buy a piece of crap. I have zero experience with new Pio amps. Had 4 that fail (circa 1994ish) quickly, but that was a long time ago and is irrelevant other than it means I still don't buy them personally.

CEA compliant testing is a joke too, still not a real standard. Better than nothing, but again stop worrying about numbers that you don't understand at all and instead focus on getting a reputable amp.

I run a carpc, does all that you ask...but isn't quite as straightforward. Currently running a 10" but there are plenty of double din sized monitors. Double DIN and active capable aren't so common...

Start by listing what it needs to do. Always want to shop to fill your goals. Easy enough from there. The more stuff you need it to do the more $$ and the more complicated. I have unique needs and will share later, but you should describe yours.

As for master, I am just a hack...but one that is good at planning.

As a noob to active having LIVE adjustments is huge. Simple and carpc does not exist...

Live on a touchscreen and a minidsp requirws an expensive touchscreen. Software needs high resolution.... Minidsp is also rather complicated compared to the 80prs