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Yup. And hell a half db, it comes down to 10ths most of the time. Tenths man. At the upper level, everyone is SOOoooo close, its like nothing. A piece of tape, here or there, temperature that day,... silly stuff you have to pay attention to, lol, may get you a ring/win or cost you one. Also depends how you meter, or what ORG your in. Sealed up, on the dash, or outlaw, something open, kick stuff, or head rest stuff. All comes into play. Now, we arent loud. So, i cant help much at all. Never have been. Our goals are different than just netting DB's. That said...... Find and use your vehicle resonance. Efficient. Big one to me. Use that to a advantage. Get your enclosure to like what the rig likes, and you will gain large. Use it, instead of fight it. If your into that. We always fight it, because we want to play lower than what the rig likes. Been that way in every build we have done. Blazers liked 44ish and peaked at 35,...and the burb likes about the same, 44, 46. But we want to peak well lower. But, if you can have the rig HELP you, (tunning fork style) instead of hurt you, be more efficient, it helps a ton. When it comes to the lil tricks, it will be hella vehicle dependant. Test your nuts off....... :shrugs:

I have my doubts that's going to do anything. A/C duct work is way under the dash. If by removing it you open up a hole in the firewall, I'm not sure it's allowed, especially in a class where everything should be sealed up. IMO all sealed up should be the benchmark. Cracking a window open or opening a door or opening the rear hatch to gain score are useless. As for the NVX versus old-school A/B and the China discussion....the new class D's take quite a bit of abuse, my plastic china shitboxes never got warm and they live in the tiniest space available under the rear seats. Using old A/B amps for nostalgia and bragging rights, ok, but if you say they are better than the new stuff, you're smoking the wrong stuff Same goes for saying you will be able to hear obvious differences in a blind test. Blind test meaning both amps are adjusted to the same measured output level. Now back on topic... Most of the gains will be in the enclosure. Huge ports, huge enclosures (screw rules of thumb, I have been using a 10 inch port for a 12 inch sub, in a 2.8cf box), orientation, bracing or lack of bracing. Heck, I retuned my port when switching up from 8 inch just by using software. It might not have been spot on but I gained an instant 0.9 dB, going from 150.0-150.1 to 150.9-151.0. Next up are car 'mods': removal of some interior panels and carpeting, bracing certain windows or doors. In my old Jeep bracing the rear-most side windows gained almost 1 dB. Seat position, sun visor position, taping up certain vents, this should be tested only after you run out of ideas or space for box improvements and after you have tested the previously mentioned car 'mods'. Most of the box ideas I found out by myself after listening to all the "oh, if you peak high you need a small box" posts on the SPL forums. I spent quite a bit trying to go over 147 dB in a 1cf box with a single 12 and a 6 inch port. Next step was a 2cf box, score went up and final iteration was 151.4 dB with the same sub / amp / power, 2.8cf box and a 10 inch port. 4.4 dB total gain by using a big box, big port, bracing rear windows, removing all side panels behind the backseat.

Interesting.....

Sean, for the most part, that's the way it is in the SPL world. Most that chase numbers will design and build for that application. Some go WAY extreme. But when it comes to a tie breaker, you look anxd will try just about anything that might work to get that half a DB over their competitors. And as for those old school amplifiers, I have one boxed up I wouldn't mind throwing in that mix !!! I think it's a class AB setup ???

Yes, I ripped it all out, added a little bit back to the bare sheet metal areas and covered the entire thing with CCF and MLV. Now that I think about it, Aaron helped me pull the vibration damper out It was all part of the process of learning how to treat a vehicle properly. Spare tire wells are probably the most over treated vehicle areas. People pull the spare out, tap on the sheet metal and hear how flimsy it is and start adding layers, not realizing that the spare itself is part of the NVH system.

Been doing this a while brother. And to think I'm mainly a Sound Quality competitor. And before you ask ... No, I've never done this to my SQ rides. LOL

Remove A/C duct work.

Flip visors down, push seats up.

To keep things simple, if I were you, using the amp & going in an escalade like you said above I would download the specs and design from the store for the dual ported enclosure. You should have more than enough space to make that happen. If you were throwing more power on them or limited on space, then you could manipulate the design with modeling another design. What's on the store as a zip file for dual ported I believe would be just what you're looking for as far as port area, gross, & net volumes. On sub & port placement, subs up and port towards the back seems to work well in most SUV's.

Perhaps I could dumb it down for you. Being you are old...take the Pepsi challenge but use amps instead of pop. That would be a blind ab test. A is Pepsi and b is coke. Neither the a or b have anything to do with topology of an amplifier except of course you can use that style of test to compare different amps or topologies blindly.

Again you can't read. I said if you do a blind ab comparison you will have a revelation. You've read me say the same thing three times and can't ever comprehend.

I haven't answered yet because my answer has always been simple. Measure in as many different variations as possible and then adjust said design. Works better than any trick. Obviously this doesn't exclude maniupulating panels, windows etc. A/C vents is new to me...and would bet not super repeatable in other vehicles. Come blind a/b my M100 with the little "crap" NVX I have and I guarantee you will be shocked.

Yes you are blind and confused. Seriously just do a blind test 1x on ANYTHING. It will shut up your idiotic brand nonsense. There are so many snake oil tricks in audio sales and you are succumbing to all of them.

Things don't just break. Well maintained equipment used with care lasts ages. I have amps older than me that still put in work the same as the day I got them. I'm not even particularly gentle. I just make sure to keep them cool, and well fed. If you're burning up amps in less than a year, perhaps you need to examine the only constant; the user.

Stop with the verbal diarrhea it is only showing your confusion. Instead of just hyping what you have perhaps open your ears for once and compare something. Nobody at all cares what you like unless you know why you like it and in order to do that you need to do open your ears instead of brainwashing yourself further. Seriously do a blind comparison, it will completely change the way you think about audio...or don't and continue to be the laughing stock of the forum.

More barf. What a surprise. I never said they were the same, that is idiotic I said you need to listen to them and you will be enlightened. Your ridiculous boneriffic statements will be squelched if you do.