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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Without seeing the traces on the other side or measuring you can't. It is also critical to know the actual impedance of the drivers it is for otherwise you also cannot. I would also add it is probably not so relevant either. Reverse engineering a sub-optimal crossover isn't an exercise in using time well. As for the how, if the circuit path is known you can easily model it either by hand or in software to tell you the cross points. The requirements are knowing the impedance of the driver/s, the values of the Inductors, Resistors, and Capacitors and then it is easy enough. The easiest way to know is to connect the drivers and then sweep frequencies while recording them all and find the 3dB point. If you can't sweep an acquire you can play sine tones and keep indexing the sine tone until you find a 3dB point.
  2. All right first, don't let the octave thing confuse you. One octave up or down is simply a double or half the frequency. So an octave below 100Hz would be 50Hz and one above would be 200Hz... then 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12,800. The number doesnt actually matter, it's simply half or double. 1/3 octave is the point the human ear will pick up a change in pitch/tone. For our purposes today we will use the scale that will appear on your crossover and your Eq. I believe that head unit lets you select 1/3 octaves. Starting at the bottom 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 500..... 1250, 1600, 2000, 2500, 3150, 4000, 5000, 6300, 8000, 10,000, 12,500..... you'll see the span between numbers gets larger the higher you go, but there is no more "information" in that large span then in the small span. There are basically three notes in each octave. So on to how this pertains to speaker selection. The tweeter being the most finicky so will start there. A tweeter with an FS of 1250Hz, Will not like to be crossed lower than 2500Hz. One with an FS of 1500Hz, won't like being crossed lower than 3.15K. One with an Fs of 1000Hz, Will dig low and play comfortably at 2000Hz. Now a true mid range speaker will have no problem playing up to either of those points, (and beyond) and still sound good . A speaker that is considered more of a midbass will also play up to those points, but will sound poopy. So if you were looking at a speaker that is more of a true midbass, you all want a tweeter that can dig low. Same with a subwoofer, it may be play up to 500Hz, but will some poopy anywhere after 80Hz. Now on the personal preferences and what I think you would like. Let's start at the subwoofer, I will assume Jay has his crossed at 80Hz, and five has his crossed and 50Hz. And I know I have mine crossed and 63Hz. The reason Jay has his crossed high is he is mating to mid range speaker, and wants the most "weight" he can from the subwoofer. There is less detail in chopped and screwed and rap music. The reason five would cross his at 50Hz is he is after more clarity and smoothness than weight, as jazz is very smooth and detailed. Next I will assume Jay has his mids crossed it 100Hz, and five has his crossed at 63Hz. Jays mid range speaker will be more head cracking, if it's not trying to play low notes that are covered by the subwoofer. We will Assume five has a mid that is considered both a midbass and mid range. One that plays smooth across the whole frequency band, and is not peaky in the mid range. Fives midbass/midrange will sound smoother than than subwoofer, and not play head cracking in the mid range. On to the tweeter. I will assume Jay has his crossed that 3.15K, and fives are crossed at 2K. Jay already has his mid range covered, and is more after ear blistering highs. Jay most likely cares less about soundstage and more about loudness. Again five probably cares more about clarity, detail and soundstage. Just like between the subwoofer and mid, fives tweeter will play more detailed and clear then the mid at the same frequencys. Also the tweeter is the part of the equation that can be moved around the car, to achieve a better soundstage. I would personally think you are probably leaning more towards Jay's camp. Five has ridiculously discerning ears, listens at a more moderate level than most and he hates rap. I fall in the middle because I listen to just about everything, from too short and easy-e, reba McEntire to Randy Travis, Otis redding to Elton John and slayer to lamb of god. One other Added note, a speaker will handle double power each octave higher it is crossed. Jays speakers will play lower, but handle more power to get loud crossed higher. Hope that helps. Let use know what you think.
  3. Hey, I don't hate rap but I do hate bad rap. One other warning. You were discussing a 3 way before and the 80prs will only do a 2 way. Means without adding more processing you cannot do a midbass, midrange and tweeter. Btw, I also don't expect you want to be in my camp...but I came from yours but am just old now. I would never recommend you do what I do but don't want you to have the growing pains I did either.
  4. Ah, up in sacktown. I would stick to the game plan of just the doors with LLP. I mostly pointed all that out so that you would understand your car is reasonably quiet compared to alot of cars out there. As far as the rods in body, they are called crash bars. I guarantee you will find one running horizontally inside of the door. Pack the buytl rope behind that. If the roof supports are not glued to the exterior panel I would also put some there. Basically places like that, as it is cheap sound deadener. The spray in foam is also very cheap sound deadener. It serves two functions, first it applies pressure to the panels so they cannot move and vibrate, secondly it will stop any noise that is traveling through the body cavities. I will point out the car above was done to that extreme to keep the bass in, not to keep sound out. I had 12 inch mid basses in the door any 15 inch BTL sub. I wanted it knock my head around and be violent. Which it was!!
  5. I come on this site because I want honest information about all things car audio. I am NOT interested in manufacturers pimping their wares, making outrageous claims, and saying anything just to sell more products. I'm sure the owners of BOSS audio tell their customers that their amps CAN do 5000 watts. Thank you M5, no thank you Second Skin.
  6. Last car we optimized we pulled out more than 30lbs of deadening which was almost half the stock package and still managed to pull out 8dB of panel noise from the car. The previous package that we optimized was developed with a combination of FEA, classic modal analysis with accelerometers, and sysnoise. They wanted to cut cost (imagine that) so they hired us to optimize the placement post design. Huge difference and saves the manufacturer over $100k/mo.

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