ulrisa

How difficult are you finding it to do audio stuff in your volvo? Lol. I'm not sure how far you have gotten into it, but atleast with my car (Volvo S40) it is always a ridiculous challenge.

It's been a while! My computer decided to die a while ago, so I've been on my laptop. I finally figured out what was wrong with it and sent out the part for a warranty replacement. I did end up deadening the roof that day, I'll get some pics up later. Unfortunately I did not take into account that there is a sun roof tray, so I didn't get to deaden as much as I wanted. Also, the headliner will not come out in one piece in my car (yay Volvo! lol) unless you take out the back window. Space was tight and I couldn't get the stuff where I wanted. It did help though, it got rid of some annoying squeaks and rattles, so I am satisfied for now. The only thing I'm worried about is for when I get the 15's, roof flex might kill my sunroof/roof. I'm probably going to have to figure out some bracing, but I'm not ready for that yet. Still saving up to get the SAZ-3500D before the sale ends. Hopefully I'll have enough. Unfortunately that won't be that interesting for you guys until I get my speakers with my next paycheck 3 weeks from now lol. Just thought I'd give a quick update and explanation for my sudden disappearance lol. I'll post the pics up in a bit.

Just remember to be careful with the volume knob and know the woofer's limitations and it should be fine. Good luck! I've had a great experience with mine.

I would definitely recommend it. If you want to take it a step further, you can get mass loaded vinyl and make a sound barrier for the door. I wanted to do this, but MLV is kind of pricey. I forgot to mention it before, but I had NO midbass before. It was depressing how crappy it was lol. After doing this, my current speakers sound 5 times better. I am blown away by how different the sound is. It just makes me more excited for when I get the AA Carbon fiber mids

Thanks! I'm hoping to do the roof today. Too bad it looks like it's going to rain

Hi! I am rebuilding my whole system this summer. This build is going to be slow because I will be getting things as I get the money for them. My goals are: Loud, great sounding bass and mids/highs. Basically I want to have the ability to get loud when I want it, but I want it to sound good so when I'm just on my way to work the sound quality is still amazing. Trunk space doesn't really matter, but backseats do. I also want to upgrade my electrical system at some point. What kind of electrical engineer student would I be without a strong electrical lol. The plan so far is: AA Carbon Fiber Mids w/ Havoc ST010 tweeters (2 way active) 2 Xcon 15"'s or Death Penalty 15"'s Sundown SAZ-3500D and Rockford T-400-4 Redo Big 3 with Knukonceptz Fleks, HO alt (still not sure from who), possibly XS Power batteries Alright so it's time for some pictures! Sorry this is going to be a long first post, but I already got the doors deadened/sealed. This is what I got in the mail today! CLD tiles and extruded butyl rope from Don at SDS. Great stuff, I wouldn't buy anything else. Here is the door panel in question. Yes that is the speaker wire that is outside of the rubber boot. I tried to run it through the boot, but Volvo's seem to be specifically designed to make any audio modifications impossible lol. This doesn't look as good, but it's still safe. Door panel is off. I proceeded to take off the vapor barrier (plastic stuff), and clean the surfaces with brake pad cleaner. Very powerful stuff, but if your not careful I can take the paint! haha. Just showing the inner CLD tiles off. The beauty of these tiles is that you don't need to completely cover the surface for them to be effective. This is the finished door. I sealed off all possible holes. Here is the driver side before and after. That does it for now! Stay tuned. I'm going to deaden the roof next. I'm saving the butyl rope for later when I get my new speakers so I can properly seal them. Let me know if the pictures are too big! I just realized it and it's a little late now haha.

I think we need a video! lol I really like this came out!! Nice man!

OMG! You just made my day! I can't wait to pick up my 3500D!!

Actually the KMLX is the copper clad aluminum wire. It's fine as long as you aren't running over 200 amps I believe. But if you are doing the big three, it's better to just get the Fleks so that if you upgrade you already have the better wire installed. Fleks is pure OFC, so it can handle higher currents.

I am kind of in the same boat as you. So far, for my car at least (2000 Volvo S40), only Ohio Generator and Irragi carry alternators that fit my car. Have you contacted them yet? They seem to have quite an expansive collection of alternators. I am yet to call DC power, but they are worth a try as well.

My Zune HD has excellent sq in my car. As far as I know, Cowon is known for sq. It won't be bad, but get some type of docking station. My Zune sucked to control while driving until I got one.

Wow! That is awesome, this is something I want to do in the future.

Potentiometer, a variable resistor.

You should check out the Dell outlet. Sometimes you can get great deals. I got the perfect laptop for me for $500 shipped two months ago. It was awesome.

Is this something you will always be offering? I might pick some up in the future if you still are. Thanks.

Bracing helps, but with heavy subs (especially with a lot of motor force) really need a double baffle to support the weight and reduce flexing of the front baffle. The subs are mounted to the baffle so if you think about the force behind a powerful subwoofer pushing and pulling the baffle it might make more sense. Obviously you can get away with a single baffle with many subs, but with the stronger ones I see it as a requirement. I'm assuming your talking about the Xcon from your other threads, and I would definitely do a double baffle for that sub. Also, I don't really think flush mounting, or "recessing" the sub counts as a double baffle, you would have three pieces in that case. Hope this isn't confusing and makes sense lol.

Wow man, that sucks. It sounds like you have the same luck as me lol. My luck is so bad that my friends find it funny to make up hypothetical situations in which everything goes wrong for me, because it usually does lol. Just try to stay positive, at some point you'll get everything the way you want it. That's how I've been looking at things.

I'll get some pics up tomorrow

Nice! I really like the way this is turning out. Great job!

Yes thats correct, but if you don't have enough wire for the negitive run then dont bother and just ground it...plus you need two inline fuses, one located near the starter battery and one located near the HC600 Inline fuse connected to the positive wire, correct? Yes, one near the front battery, and one near the HC600.

Just wanted to say I'm excited to see how this turns out If it goes well maybe I'll get one some time.

Sundown FTW!

Do you have any other amps you could test it with? It would really narrow it down if it worked with a different amp but same wires and sub. If not, you could hook up a different speaker to the amp and see if it still happens, though I kind of doubt its the speaker that would be causing this (unless it is the wiring, which you are checking/already checked). It's too bad you don't have a circuit breaker, must suck having to keep replacing the fuses .

The recommended specs are here Incriminator Audio: No Chrome, No Carbon Fiber, No BS! Period

Well I looked it up but I couldn't really find any information. I did see that the sd card adapter was limited to 4 gb, which might mean that 4 gb is the limitation of the usb port. One possible solution (kind of) would to get multiple flash drives/sd cards. Hope this helps.