Dan208

Topeka's roads have been in bad shape for years.

12" Kenwood subs and 600 watts amp

Topeka, Ks has some pretty crappy streets. Some are decent but others are pure shit. I'm glad I only have to drive there a few times a month, but my wife has to every work day.

DO EET!!

Surely you could set some money aside for this.

Years ago, when caps became really popular, a kid in town got a complete DEI system installed in his truck. A friend of mine said that this kid had a cap, which is why it sounded better at long distances.

Thank you for that. I'm still trying to get some of my stuff sold so I can pick up one of these. I'm getting antsy and my things aren't selling.

Well, I've narrowed it down to two possible culprits. When I left for work yesterday there was still hardly any bass, and the knob wouldn't adjust it at all. I started messing around with the cable that hooks into the back of the bass knob, and BOOM, it start playing like it should. So, it seems like it's either the bass knob itself, or the bass knob cable. Figures, the one thing in my system that wasn't bought used is what's causing the problem.

The reason I got it was because I'm using my stock HU. Should I unplug it and play with the settings on the amp and see what happens?

holy, did you ever have to replace your alternator? do u look like a strobe light going down the street when bumpin your music? Still the stock one. No dimming whatsoever at full volume. Must be using "compasitors". I hope that wink means your joking. There will never be a capacitor in my car. Yes, and capacitor intentionally misspelled.

Yesterday I pushed my sub pretty hard on the way to work (about a 45 minute drive) with no problems. About halfway home this morning, it started acting up again. I started playing around with the bass knob and couldn't get it to adjust the bass at all. It was working just fine about 10 minutes before this happened. Just to be sure, I tested it out with about a dozen different fairly bass heavy songs, but still didn't notice any difference with the knob at minimum, maximum or anywhere in between.

Just checked the sub with a DMM and it's reading 3.6 ohms. Haven't had a chance to check out the ground yet.

Yeah, I was going to keep all the settings and volume way down.

Yeah, I thought maybe the ground. I had a shop do the amp install and they are pretty reputable, so I hope that's not the problem. The sub is just an old Adire Audio Shiva that's been in the closet for 5+ years. I was just trying to think of another way to test things out.

I noticed this problem starting about a week ago. My sub will lose output by about half and play like that for a while, then start pounding again. It doesn't seem to matter if the volume is high or low. I checked all the wiring going into the amp and everything is tight. Took the sub out of the box and recrimped everything. I'm running the stock HU, an MTX RFL600D and a 10" Clarion SW1051. Amp is only running at 4 ohms (rated 300 watts @ 4 ohms). Stock electrical also. Lights don't dim at all. I've got a spare sub laying around, but it's a 12" and I don't have a box for it and no means to whip up a temporary box. What's the best way to start eliminating what the problem could be? Would it be a bad idea to run the 12" free air for a few days to see if it could be the amp? Other than that I have no idea where to start.

holy, did you ever have to replace your alternator? do u look like a strobe light going down the street when bumpin your music? Still the stock one. No dimming whatsoever at full volume. Must be using "compasitors".

Still trying to get some stuff sold so I can pick up a 10". I'm actually scrounging around the house and garage looking for things to put up on Ebay and Craigslist. Pathetic I know, but I REALLY want one of these.

If they came in single 4 or dual 2 I'd get one in a heartbeat.

Fiat=Fix It Again, Tony. But seriously, it would be cool as hell to put a monster system in something like that and pull up in front of a bunch of people and just unleash.

Very nice. I really like the "stone" look. Kind of what I'm wanting to do for my next box.

How cheap? Still need testers?

W00t, we are going to raise them just slightly as the cost of the new carpet is 4 times that of the old stuff!!! Booo!! Damn good prices. You may be hearing from me this summer.

Except for those of us that never have any money. I may have to start working the streets.

It's an MTX RFL600D. I wouldn't think that it would matter since there's only one gain knob, but I want to make sure just in case.

Ok, another possibly dumb question. My amp has 2 sets of speaker terminals and one gain knob. I'm only using one terminal. Since there's only a single gain knob, do I have to test it on the terminal that I'm running the sub? Or can I use the unoccupied terminal (but still disconnect the sub at the box)? The amp is under the seat and it's a little tough to get at the screws on the terminals.