PHATBOi

Definately solid looking subs. Whats the MAP going to be, and will you have will call in Tampa so they can be picked up instead of shipped?

Yeah, my AA Chaos was a D2 but the coils where actually 1.5.

You have to find the frequency range of the amp, most decent amps start at 10-15Hz. That's the lowest it will produce. But you also have to figure in the frequency range of the sub, if it starts at say 23Hz, then that's the lowest it will produce.

Can we get an update pic with the stocked shelves? I could use a new focus point for happy time and seeing that many SSA subs in one place is enough to get anyone's rocks off, lol.

Glad you got the Z back bro! Now you can give me that review of the APSM I was askin for (and have some bass as well). I admire your patience with this build, I lack in that department. I want what I want and I want it now, lol. Gets me into the "Damn, I wish I would have just waited" jam sometimes, but I ususally come out on top regardless. Keep the pics comin bro.

Take it easy man. You work too hard, lol. Hope you get well soon.

I'm not tryin to pimp Audiopipe, just basing my suggestions off personal experience. I have had great success with these amps. By all means there are plenty of other options out there. The Cadence amps are an excellent choice, the only point I was trying to make is it would be better to run a class d for your subs as they are more efficient went it comes to big power (they take less input power from your car's electrical system than a class a/b amp to make the same amount of output power). As far as running an 800 watt amp for an 800 watt sub you are correct, this would be ideal if the amp was 100% efficient. But seeing how most amps are 80% average, it will actually help to have a few hundred watts head room so you don't have to push your amp full tilt to get the power you want out of it. Just because you have a 1000 watt amp doesn't mean you have to push 1000 watts out of it. If you set your gain accordingly, you can see your 800 watts for your 800 watt sub and not have to work your amp so hard to get it if you have the head room. This can save you from clipping the signal and damaging your subs. I will gladly step back and let some others make suggestions. Hope you find what your looking for. Good luck in whatever you choose.

Why would you want to run a 2 channel for your sub amp? Just curious. If your looking for that power range the AP10001D: http://vminnovations.com/product_5568/AUDIOPIPE_AP10001D_1000W_MONO_Power_Amplifier.html or APSM-1300: http://vminnovations.com/product_4493/Audiopipe_APSM_1300_2000W_Mono_Mini_Amplifier.html would both give you 1K @ 1 ohm (good to have some head room so you don't risk clipping the amp) and be a hell of alot cheaper and more efficient than that 2 channel. Would still leave you in the power range of not having to do any major electrical upgrades other than the big 3 which should ALWAYS be done anyways. And yes you can build a box inside the cabin without walling but imo it is not going to sound as good or get as loud.

As far as the config, idk much about pc gaming but I can tell you that is gonna be one quick pc. With 6 gigs of DDR3 and an i5, you think about doing something and that laptop will already be on it, lol. Definately should get the job done for something just to play with after work.

If you where going to go that route, then you would want to wall it. Subs and port forward. This is one a friend on another forum is just finishing up (still needs to be covered and completely seal off from the front but you can get an idea). This would be a pretty big build. Need to make sure you know what you are getting yourself into. Honestly what your looking for can be achieved with 2 good 12's in a well built enclosure and ~1-2K rms out of the trunk. Here's a suggestion: 2 of these in a D4 option $380 shipped: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Sundown-Audio-SA%252d12.html 1 of these $162.95 shipped: http://vminnovations.com/product_4093/Audiopipe_AP15001D_1500W_Mono_D_Amplifier.html and a box ~3^3 tuned to 32Hz would cost ~$60-80 to build even if you used birch. This combination would get pretty loud, low, and still sound good for a daily driver all while not breaking the bank or making you do major mods to your car. Also would leave the money to make sure your electrical is on point (the xtra batt, upgraded ground wire, Stinger volt meter, and possibly an HO alt if needed). BELIEVE me, your electrical is NOT a place where you want to cut corners or cheap out. Doesn't matter how great of equipment you buy, if you can't support it, it's all just paperweights waitin to give up the ghost. You could even get the AP18001D if you wanted, but I don't think the xtra 300 rms will be audible. This is just a suggestion of system that will get loud and sound good without breaking the bank. Anyone feel free to critique or substitute equipment if you wish. Hope this helps.

This. Windows 7 is exactly that, ease of XP with the look of Vista. Have no complaints. Linux is great, but for someone with little to no computer knowledge, I think it is just to much a pita. Just for everyday use and gaming, stick with the Windows 7. So easy to use, everything is pretty much plug&play now. No hunting for the right drivers and compatibility (a MAJOR issue when using Linux).

The first thing I would do is upgrade your ground to atleast as big a wire as your positive. After that, do your Big 3 in atleast 1/0 wire. Then chuck the crapacitor and get one of these: http://www.remybattery.com/Products/Deka-Intimidator-Battery---9A31__9A31.aspx Next I would have a properly ported box built for the AB 12's. I'm sure you could get what your looking for out of them if they where installed in a proper enclosure on good power. There are lots of people on here that can build one for you or provide you wwith a design so you can build it yourself. Lastly, grab one of those AP10001D's and wire your subs like this: Just go easy on the gain. Also, NEVER use bass boost on your head unit or amp, and NEVER use the LOUD button on the head unit if it has one. This could cause you to send a clipped signal to your subs. Hope this helps.

Lookin good bruh. Only a single layer?

BTW, the RE Box Calculator is worthless. Just ask someone here for a box design, I'm sure they'd be happy to help.

I'm confused. Which is it an SSA Icon or a Fi BL?

This would help.

AQ1200D: http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26 Wired at .86 would be your best bet. Should take it no problem. Or if you really want to save some cash and still have a solid amp with a 1 year warranty, either of these would run at .86 as welll: AP15001D: http://vminnovations.com/product_4093/Audiopipe_AP15001D_1500W_Mono_D_Amplifier.html AP10001D: http://vminnovations.com/product_5568/AUDIOPIPE_AP10001D_1000W_MONO_Power_Amplifier.html

Thank you. I own an 03 Mazda Protege ES and when I get ready to do some serious deadening (and not the single layer of fatmat I have in my doors now, lol) I now have a reference guid to work with. Thanks. I love these cars, always wanted a hatch to play with. Car looks great, can't wait to see the audio install.

Pretty much anything by DJ Solo. I would like to thank Mark LFTN for turning me on to this very talented artist and dubstep in general. I stopped listening to electronic music a few years back and back then it was all Florida Breaks or nothing. I am really digin this newer genre of music as I just can't stand to listen to the same recycled garbage on the radio anymore. So thanks Mark! http://djsoloisawesome.com/

Most of us are into to all around sound and great lows instead of just getting loud. Don't get me wrong AQ subs are tanks that take a ton of power and put up amazing numbers, but just seem to lack in the sq department. We like to get loud, but still sound good doing it.

http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=28 Fits in your budget and is perfect for a BTL.

Budget?

Try it and let us know how it works out.

Congrats and Happy B-Day SSA!