ssh

I love Eel handrolls and Caterpillar rolls.

Oh damn, actually had some show cars to see, sweet. All the meca events I've attended were pretty boring.

Fuck any bitches?

Unless you can space out the exodus and mount it on the sheet metal, I don't see it happening in the doors, so heavy What ever happened to your other door pods you built, those were sick.

Aaron, Umm, chrome baskets are way smoother, helps get the dBs out the box, dontcha know? Didn't need to clutter up the news section with my bs haha

No bling bling for the gaudy folks?

Sounds great, might snag one later to go along with everything else I'm doing. I was actually surprised when I first heard of the icon being redesigned with the current version not being out for very long. Huh? The Icon is 4 years old. We move at ID and JL pace, haha. The Icon had minor tweaks to it over the last couple of years, but this is the first overhaul. I got the latest edition when it first came out about 1.5years ago? It looked different then the version before, assumed it was completely different. The cones, suspension, leads and optional coils were the tweaks, but this an all new motor, trick cooling similar to the Zcon, and a solid pole etc. etc. Sounds stellar!

No one's being hostile, welcome to the forum. Use the search function for common questions, 9 times out of 10 someone else has already asked it and been answered.

Looks sexy.

Sounds great, might snag one later to go along with everything else I'm doing. I was actually surprised when I first heard of the icon being redesigned with the current version not being out for very long. Huh? The Icon is 4 years old. We move at ID and JL pace, haha. The Icon had minor tweaks to it over the last couple of years, but this is the first overhaul. I got the latest edition when it first came out about 1.5years ago? It looked different then the version before, assumed it was completely different.

I tried making each side near identical, then when I put them under the dash they would rub and be way too close to the pedals, so I ended up deleting some of the edges. Have to fill in the lower left section, fill in the dimples, and do a bunch more sanding. I'm thinking about painting them the OEM color of my car to match (dark purple). Passenger side:

Sounds great, might snag one later to go along with everything else I'm doing. I was actually surprised when I first heard of the icon being redesigned with the current version not being out for very long.

Thanks guys. Got some filler on there, I need to fill in the lower left corner, fill in dimples, and sand a bunch more. Wrapping them in vinyl would be a trick since it goes all the way to the door and running board, thinking about getting some oem volvo paint and matching the pods with the outside:

Holy kick pod!

I'm not sure why your set on power usage, doesn't make a whole lot of sense. I've personally heard some of the HAT Legatia series drivers and I really liked how they sounded, but after doing some research, and finding reviews, I found that a lot of people said they were extremely overpriced and could get very similar sound for half the price. I specifically remember one guy testing the L3 mid, he did a direct drop in, then switched it for a ~$100 driver and said he couldn't tell the difference... Just something to think about, see if you can find some reviews. If your still set on them, I believe there is a guy on smd trying to sell his pair (can't remember L3 or L1)

That makes a lot of sense, I just never really thought of it much. Thanks for clearing that up for me for you! I just thought of it as a bottle neck situation. If you cut that wire strand, the electricity isn't able to go anywhere at the end of it, so it would have to jump to another and slow down the transfer of electrons, creating heat or resistance or something. Just an example: 10 feet of 4awg can handle 120a. 2 feet of 4awg can handle 250a. Imagine how much current could flow through one foot, 6", an inch... Obvisiouly there is a point to where it's so small that this isn't the case, but generally, the shorter the run, the more current it can handle. Which in a essence shows that losing some on the ends of your wire isn't going to make a whole lot of a difference. Or notice some of the xs batteries without terminal posts, that use bolts, like the xs 1200 you have, it has a tiny bolt (yes it does have a larger contact on the battery), but just that small bolt can handle some massive current because it is so small.

I found some extra wire I could use for temp running everything, tried some different aiming points. Figured I'm the only person in the car 90% of the time, mine as well just set them up optimally for myself. Gotta get some more supplies in the morning but should finish the driver side tomorrow, with the exception of the grille. IHOP = my partial build log, for no reason.

Good.

We're clogging this thread. I'm sorry, Mark. If you want to continue this conversation I think we should start a new thread, or you should send me a PM, please. This is my last reply on this issue. It's all personal preferences on my part. I want things to work perfectly. 1/0 terminals with 1/0 wire. When my wire is too big for my lugs it's stupid having to work around it, but I understand that I'm mixing welding terminals and CA wire so it's my fault. That's why I bought welding cable this time around As far as the wire not being able to handle as many amps after being trimmed, i've always thought that was the case. But now thinking about it I could have been wrong this whole time! Losing some strands on the ends when trimming isn't going to hinder performance, or add resistance, or lower the amperage capacity.

Don't expect a company to just randomly throw a sale, especially because you just happen to want to buy now. If you can't afford new, but won't buy used, that's your problem.

How about you add some helpful input or shut the fuck up. I apologize for coming across as a prick, but all T5wagon does is spew out crap about skar, no matter what it is, it's the best. ---- OP, it's very hard to gauge one's idea of SQ and loudness, as it's all relative, so many variables even aside from the equipment being used. Are you able to build your own enclosure, or are you having a shop do it? I would try a new box for your alpine, you may just find that they actually do sound really good with significantly more output. If it still isn't enough, then pull out the alpine and try another driver. Or save a few extra bucks and pick up some Fi ssds, or higher end used drivers is always a possibility. But firstly I would try a new enclosure (one that could also work with new drivers in case you decide the alpines aren't enough.) Just my two cents.

I've never heard a Skar driver, so I can't comment on how it sounds, but I despise the company itself so their products are automatically out in my book. But each to their own.

I just got some of those mids. But I will knock your subwoofer choice.

This thread needs to be closed... Don't take it personal Calvin, but it's like going to a truck show and saying "Which is better Chevy, Ford, or Dodge." And even so, your comparing apples to oranges. I suggest doing more research about each individual driver and what their each geared for. You'll then make a better decision, otherwise your going to wind up with people saying "xxx is better, its loud in my car, etc."