Everything posted by ssh
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D1400 Question
I'm not hating It just sounded like you just thought you could run a 14v battery on a 12v electrical charging system If mechman doesn't get back to you, talk to DC power and be sure to post videos when done, I'm a pic/vid whore.
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review of DC Powers customer service
DC's customer service has definitely improved for me ever since they joined the SSA forum. There a very busy company and sometimes takes them a while to answer emails, and catching them on the phone I've read is hit or miss. First time I called, Kyle answered and I ordered my alt in 5 minutes. Later when I received my invoice, I noticed my address was incorrect, I sent Kyle a PM on here and literally a minute later I had a response with a new invoice and address correction. So far in my CS experience I've been very happy! Once I receive my alt and it's installed I'll have a nice review on their product!
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Calculating Volume Of not a Square Object.
What type of fiberglass enclosure are you going to do? like design or look wise. Depending on shape you could still use basic geometry to get a pretty good estimate of volume. Or you could always try the packing peanut idea, it should be close enough.
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My first home made bass track
I agree with frostedflakejake, song is like a 20second loop But it does sound good If I have time I'll make a video
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my bass track
Sounds like an old bass track from the 90s
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D1400 Question
If your going to run 16000watts then you should already know what your doing... You cant just run 12v and 14v batteries like that. You could use stepdowns so you could still charge 12v batteries on a 16v setup, but thats expensive. Run two alts, one for stock, other for stereo electrical. Let me ask this, Do you have a High Output Alt? or planning on getting one?
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Top 10 Speakers
Yeah you can but the real question is that difference worth the $1800 price tag difference. Go to your local shops and listen to the low end hertz or morel and then compare to the high end products. Trust me you will notice a difference, it may be minor but some want that extra acoustical performance from there speakers over what average users use. But at the end of the day it will still come down to the install. Yeah. I recently installed some coaxial focal 6x9s and hertz 5 1/4s for my fathers truck, think we spent around ~500 and they sound so crisp and loud. And these were just coaxials nothing fancy
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Top 10 Speakers
I wonder if I could actually tell the difference between a $400 component set vs a $2200 one...
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finally got my loud daily driver up and running
nice equipment and nice score! Wish I could hear it
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Which Sub fellas?
ok gotcha that makes more sense haha i like how it looks now. perty sickk I think ssa is still waiting on the flat style dustcaps for the 10" drivers, so you could get the regular dustcap type now or wait until the new ones are in stock. I think.
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Which Sub fellas?
you did say you could do 1.2cubes enclosure. So it would fit well and perform well in your space restraints. example, The smallest enclosure recommended for two 12" icons is 3.8cubes. An optimal enclosure 5cubes, I had mine in 3.5cubes... and they sounded awesome. Just my two cents.
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Just purchased some CLD Tiles
You'll be a very happy man when your product arrives! I just added some more cld tiles, ccf, and mlv to my jeep and my music listening experience is much more enjoyable now!
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Which Sub fellas?
Yea that's another option, and it's specs are very similar to the fi q hmm... but when it says it can be put in a 1cu.ft. and then a 1.35 cu. ft. opt. it just means that's the measurement it performs best in? It'll perform fine in 1cube but it'll sound more linear (less peaky) and have more output with 1.35cubes. will the .35cube difference be noticeable to the ear? All I know is you can't go wrong with an icon.
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I just dont understand
If I was to take a guess I would say, With the speakers connected there using power and in turn lowering the voltage reading. Example: check battery voltage at idle with stereo off vs stereo at full tilt (voltage drop). But this is just a guess
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Which Sub fellas?
an SSA icon! I had the chance to run them for a few months and they sounded awesome. Ported: 1.35 cu.ft. for a 10" It would match up nicely with your amp
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Avalanche 18 LLT build
Hows the output going to be firing towards the audience vs down firing? I just ask because I thought downfiring and using the floor to unload on works best for HT. sketchup model looks awesome, especially all the bracing
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Since everyone seems to want Neo...
so you were talking about a different neodymium driver... clarification man
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Since everyone seems to want Neo...
Have you tried them? Hope your opinion on the driver's efficiency and motor force isn't based off the picture.
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adding 2nd amp = less power?
Mixed Power and ground, but that amps wouldn't turn on period if that was the case.
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Fi Q 18 :)
Free air just about any driver and your bound to kill it.
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Sub woofer cone area chart
My main issue with the use of that chart, aside from the laziness required to even need to use that chart, is that it is teaching people wrong information. It may be close enough for government work....but it's still wrong. And if it's teaching novices wrong information, then that will simply confuse them more. They'll be missing out on a basic but fundamental concept. Cone area is a simple driver parameter, that is apparently disturbingly misunderstood. It'll only make things worse if we start them off by teaching them wrong information. When you were in school, your educators hopefully didn't teach you that Pi was 3 since that's "close enough" (there have actually been laws passed throughout the years to attempt to change the "officially recognized" value of Pi in various states and localities....ignorance abound). Second, there can actually be a fairly significant difference in Sd between two same sized drivers. If we assume there's no difference by using incorrect values for determining area, then we are again missing important details. A 12W7 for example has approximately 1db worth of additional cone area than the SSA drivers listed above. That's breaching the realm of audibility, due simply to difference in cone area between two different "twelve inch" drivers that the original chart completely ignores. Last, most people interested in cone area are trying to determine potential output differences. Cone area alone is useless for this purpose. For that, you would need to know Vd not just Sd. In order to obtain an accurate Vd, you would need an accurate Sd and Xmax. Using inaccurate Sd will misrepresent potential output capabilities and differences. Again, making the information useless and teaching novices wrong information. Overall, I can't think of a single reason to suggest or recommend the use of wrong information. I understand your point, cone area isn't the holy grail to more output, especially when the information is incorrect, speakers travel (xmax), motor force and other variables that I don't fully grasp come into play. Guess I made it since everyone was asking. Anyhow, whats for dinner?
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Sub woofer cone area chart
Some of the fi drivers have the same Sd value listed on their site as the icons and xcons have. Perhaps if I have time and theres enough demand, and im doing it right, then i'll make a condensed chart for ssa, sundown, and fi
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Sub woofer cone area chart
Someone please correct me if I did anything incorrectly, I just used the Sd values from the ssa homepage I'll make another for SA when I got a minute.
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Got some stuff today!
Are those 10"s, cause the motors look huge in comparison to the basket. I loved my icons, wish I hadn't sold them... Congrats on purchase!
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Think these will smoke?
With gains matched properly, no imp rise, at 1ohm, perfect world you'd have ~1166watts to each driver. But since your not playing straight up sine waves, its not going to see 1166watts 24/7, and your wiring to 1.33ohms, and then some imp rise, and possibly gaining down a tad, I would say it's fine.