edouble101

Check out the Dayton Audio 15" HO. Dayton Audio is an excellent value.

Lets see whats inside, open her up!

LMAO

If you are sure your RCA are good, you could be experiencing a ground loop. You should have a common ground for all audio components including the head unit. Factory head unit ground location/wire isnt suitable imo, neither is a chassis ground imo. Directly to the battery is best. Most newer equipment are designed to eliminate ground loops. Possible yours isnt.

f is for fuck yourself....... LMAO!!

If the only crossover I had was in the amplifier then I would definitely use the crossover features (including slope) as one of the determining factors on which amplifier to buy. I feel that steep slopes are to be used to protect tweeter damage when used at lower than recommended frequencies. Driver selection and placement should be consisted first. Using a low pass filter with 24db/octave slope on a subwoofer really isnt beneficial for anything. Depending on the install, a 24db slope may prevent a good blend with midbass drivers and prevent the bass from not sounding locatable. I would not use a 24db/octave slope on a subwoofer or any driver unless absolutely needed. Ultimitley it depends on your listening goals.

I wouldnt be surprised, neo motor and Ti basket. Like I said before, SSA products are very similiar to Fi.

This was a test to see if cutting up the metal deck panel improved SPL. I plan on a more extensive mod in the spring of '12. I opened up my metal deck panel about a month ago. Probably the best mod I did. Literally sounds like I added a second sub. SPL difference is very noticable. I had an issue with rear deck rattles. Most of the noise was coming from plastic covers on the deck lid and the third brake light hitting the window. There is a factory installed brake light on my spoiler so I just removed the one on the deck panel cover. That is what the holes are in the video. I plan on modding the deck cover and covering it with acoustical transparent material. There will not be any holes visible after that. Achieving "bass up front" was mostly done by eliminating rattles in the rear. The rattles made the bass locatable. I do believe that opening the rear deck helped with this too. I will be framing out the rear deck and welding in bracing. After that I am gong to remove as much of the factory metal as possible. Phuck resale value Onto chitty cell phone pics and vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gijaZb8j6oU&context=C39de36dADOEgsToPDskJcy1PJ0PNhiYmmhyvA9Aab

I use a Dewalt DW618B3. Badass router. Tips: Use a down spiral bit, not an up spiral. Down spiral are better for plunging in MDF to prevent dust from flying up your nose and give a clean cut. Soak your bits in kerosene after use and "pick" them clean to make them last longer.

Breaking him in I see

This opens a can of worms. Why buy SSA when Fi exists? The similarities are striking. The various product lines are nearly identical in price. Why would Fi design and build better subs than their own for another company and sell them at the same price?

lol Thanks for correcting me. Next time it will be more clear I will not have time today but hopefully tomorrow (Wednesday) I will post pics and a vid of my current setup with a modded metal deck panel.

I meant no harm in posting the information. I stand corrected, I should have had the author in the title. I will edit the original post.

Nope, I never saw a link you posted.

ooooooooh lol, copy right infraction going on here! I'm tellingggggg by: Grizz Archer I never said it was my information. Just posting helpful advice.

This Wednesday I will try to take a video to show you guys just how much air is moving between my trunk and cabin. Using MDF as bracing should be ok but ultimately metal bracing that can be welded in place would be superior. I do not know how this will affect vehicle resale value. Probably isn't in our favor I can care less what my vehicle's resale value is but I do not want to compromise the vehicle's structural integrity. The difference in output is tremendous. I think there are some comps that do not allow this modification.

I have seen a few posts on here recently about trunk cars and the difficulties that some have experienced with their sub bass system. I think this may help. There are a few primary problems that are encountered when we install subwoofer enclosures into a sedan type vehicle with a trunk. The most obvious problem is the reduced amount of bass in the main listening cabin. The next possible problem is that there is more bass with the trunk open than when closed. A third problem is the excessive rattling of the trunk body panels. Proper damping will greatly reduce the vibrating body panels and yield slightly higher SPL in the vehicle, but will not resolve the other issues inherent with sedans. Let’s take a good look at what is happening acoustically. We will find that everything makes sense and that the solution will be obvious... Since the main goal is to get the loudest and cleanest bass in the cabin, let’s address the loss of volume issue. Taking the logical approach, we would be curious to know how the bass is heard in the listening cabin when the box is in the trunk. If the car was a hatchback, we would have the box in the listening area. But since it is in the trunk, what pathway does the bass energy take to get inside? Well, in cars with foam-backed seats, the sound can propagate right through the foam. Suppose the sedan we are talking about is a Mercedes or BMW... Most of these cars have steel lined trunks or masonite-backed seats. They pass even less bass. So, what pathway is left? Leaks! That’s it. No wonder why we don’t get a lot of bass in the cabin! DUH!! So, the logical solution would be to increase the direct air coupling as much as possible. This would involve making some type of perforations in the rear deck, which would couple the trunk to the cabin. This seems like a simple solution, and works very well if done correctly, and if the consumer will allow you to cut metal. The last part of this article will give one format of making this modification solution. By now, the highly resonant trunk body panels should make perfect sense. Why wouldn’t it rattle and buzz if the box is trapped inside? Al of that energy escapes through poorly damped body panels. We will find that all of the above mentioned problems will be cured with one simple solution. Some people have realized that by simply cutting a hole in the rear deck, amplitude will increase. The bigger the hole, the bigger the gain. Other people do not want to decrease the structural integrity of the body. I have a technique that has worked for me for years which typically yields a gain of 7 to over 13 dB of gain. The technique I use actually strengthens the body as well. I will start by removing the rear deck cover. I will then climb in the trunk and remove as much metal as possible, usually leaving a 1" frame around the perimeter and a 1" brace from front to rear of the deck. Try to visualize the left over metal. It is in the shape of the number "8", so to say. Assuming that the rear deck cover fits very well, I will trace the cover onto a piece of MDF or marine-grade plywood that is 1/2" thick or thicker. When I set the “8” shaped piece of panel wood over the deck, it should fit tight. I will then proceed to climb back into the trunk to trace the holes that I cut out of the metal, onto the panel of wood. Then remove the panel and cut the holes out, leaving the same 8 shape as the metal rear deck. The next step is to cover the top of the panel with chicken-wire or metal mesh material. Then I will finish the panel with color-matching acoustically transparent carpet, velour, grill cloth or similar material. To install the new panel, I like to use either 100% pure silicone or Liquid Nails as an adhesive. Lay down a generous bead of adhesive onto the surface of the 8 shaped metal rear deck. The press the new grill into place and allow to dry. The result is rear deck that is now over 8x thicker than the stock 1/16" thickness, so it is definitely stronger. We have a lot more acoustic coupling, so it will yield a lot more amplitude. The pressure will not build up in the trunk as much as before, reducing trunk panel vibration. As an added benefit, the rear deck speakers (if located here) will not be forced to comply with the pressure of the larger subs in a "sealed" trunk, which will result in longer life for the rear fill drivers. This solution will work with acoustic suspension, bass reflex or bandpass enclosures. Some people think they’re a genius because they ran the port of a bass reflex enclosure up through the deck. I find this to be a dumb idea as the only output that will increase will be the frequencies close to the tuning frequency of the port. For those people who like the slammatotious bass of a psycho bandpass, you are in luck if you plan on building a custom enclosure. By simply extending the whole port(s) up through the rear deck, you can focus 100% of the acoustic energy into the cabin with zero energy wasted in the trunk! The hole around the port must be sealed with silicone to assure 100% direct air coupling. Suffice to say, hatchbacks are notorious SPL monsters and are naturally loud with little audio equipment. The above technique simply converts a sedan with a trunk into a "pseudo hatchback". by: Grizz Archer

So you are sealing the port opening from the trunk, what about the sub? Is the sub firing into cabin sealed off as well? In a fourth order enclosure (regular ported) the port and sub work together. They both need to be directed to the listening environment. Sealing off the trunk with the sub firing in the trunk wouldn't work well. If the sub and port are firing into the cabin then the trunk should definitely be sealed off. I have had two different setups in my sedan. The first was a fourth order sealed from the trunk. Sub and port were facing my rear seats. It was a pain in the ass to have to fold down the seats all the time. My second setup, which is my current install, is another fourth order with the sub and port facing the back bumper. I went this route so I didnt have to fold my back seat down all the time, along with other reasons. The biggest improvement that I did to improve overall SPL was to open up the rear deck. I currently have a 12"x4" slot cut in the metal rear deck panel. The rear deck cover covers it all up. I didnt want to cut away too much a possibly affect vehicle integrity. Next year I am going to frame out the metal rear deck and open it up even more. You have to be careful not to remove too much without bracing it first. By doing this you are "kinda" turning a trunk car to a hatchback. There was a huge difference in SPL output by "venting" the rear deck. Also, the sub bass seamed to sound behind me now it sounds in front of me. I would think that this would affect resale value of the vehicle but I have no concern with that.

I am hoping to order mine late January. These subs should be star performers in sealed enclosures. I will find out!

Yep yep. That would have been a bad ass photo opportunity there

Is the manufacturer covering shipping damage?

I have a never used gasket for a XCON 15 that I am about to throw out. If you want it just pay shipping costs for a flat rate package from UPS. Just noticed you never said it was a 15". Is it?

This is vehicle and install dependent. Some installs require the driver and port be located in certain areas. For SPL comps, driver and port placement maybe more critical to squeeze every tenth out of the meter. If possible, I like to place the driver as close to the port opening (on the outside of the enclosure) as possible. I never had an issue where the port area was that large that the driver unloaded. This normally helps keep the driver away from the port opening inside the enclosure as well.

Couple things. If there any plastic pieces on the top of your trunk lid that your seat belts pass though either remove them or try hot gluing them. I hot glued all four of mine but one still rattled. I ended up removing all four. This is the final step. Use window foam seal tape on the edge of the bottom rear window where the rear deck meets. It more than likely definitely rattles there. The rear deck panel is probably not rattling against the metal deck panel. From the factory it should have foam blocks attached to the bottom side of the rear deck panel to prevent this.