Tirefryr

Whom ever stated that in the review is just stupid. While some designs are better than others, The shallow design is just as apt to produce ground pounding bass as well as a standard driver.

IMO, this is the only type of grommet/bushing to use. It locks down on the cable and provides a water-tight seal on either end and provides support for the cable versus a standard grommet where you have a hole and the wire can move and over time wear through the insulation.

Use the PM feature.

Forgot about Kicker too. http://www.kicker.com/content/CompVT

Apparently MTX is in the game now too. http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/subwoofers/IndexTThin.cfm

SI BM mkIII Memphis S-class Pioneer Shallow mounts Earthquake SWS JL Audio TW5 Tang Band also has several shallow subs.

Let's give the guy a chance to explain himself here.

YEah, the HARDKORE thing looks kinda ghey.

Titties!

Perfect answer! Thanks! Transpo makes great stuff! Actually all the Wetherill products are pretty awesome.

Who's manufacturing your rectifiers and regulators? Where are you sourcing the stators from? I take it you're using the standard Delphi rotor?

That's a great deal since you get a pair. Nice find! They usually are about that price for a single one.

It was "bring your parent to work week" in China, so they didn't get much done last week.

I don't give a shit what other people do unless it affects me. Lately, my work has been suffering as I have to do the work of two since the other guy I work with is useless. When my boss asked me what the issue was, I let him know. If I'm a narc, then so be it, but I'll be damned if someone else's laziness or stupidity is going to cause me to lose my job.

You got lucky Brad hit this before I did. I had the ban hammer out for being a douche.

What would be the best way to ensure clean fuel system? Some kind of cleaner I can run through the car? ALL automotive computers reset when de-energized. The vehicle is OBDII. It will only take about 30 minutes worth of driving for the computer to re-"learn" it's settings. That in itself is a farce as the computer doesn't learn. It is constantly making changes and adapting, but when the battery is erased, it reverts back to preset parameters, hence the reason for sometimes erratic idle, etc. . . . The only thing you did different was change a battery and induce a more resistive path. It has nothing to do with the fuel system, although changing the filter never hurts.

It could be just a fluke, but you could also have had a high resistance connection as well, which will cause a voltage drop which will affect everything else in the vehicle. Just run a new wire the length you need and be done with it. Don't connect or solder it to the existing wire.

I am literally depressed when Gavin is not around. I cringe everytime I drop him off at day care or with his mom. My family gets mad at me because I never let them take him anywhere or be without me for more than 10 minutes. It sucks when he's not with me. I can't imagine how it will be when he becomes a teen and no longer wants anything to do with his dad.

Is that a Super Coupe I see in the background?

Somewhat. I've moved the IAT sensor back to the factory location, so the car is seeing intake air temps slightly above ambient, instead of 10* below. That, with always running 91 minimum, has pulled it in to where I'm seeing 6-8* being pulled instead of 12-14* on the big end. I still think some of it has to due with my exhaust being a bit too free flowing, and the resonance from it is tricking the knock sensors into pulling timing that doesn't need pulled. I'm going to head to the track here soon, and see what happens officially. I think, too, that by losing so much back pressure, I've lost some top end, and might try a resonated x-pipe to both tone down the exhaust and add some back pressure over the factory h-pipe. What do you think? Thanks J! It's my DD toy, lol!! Can you hear it knocking? I hate knock sensors as they are easily skewed due to harmonics. Many times they sense something that isn't there. I'd try and unplug them or shut them off if possible. As for the exhaust, reducing back pressure will free up top end power and lessen the torque. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

This is what I used to ride, albeit optioned differently.

Kent, did you ever get the timing issue figured out?

Yup. It could do anything, any time.

Common sense would say yes, but you never know until you try.

I wouldn't bother removing anything. Just pull the fuse out. It's not going to hurt anything.