shizzzon

Stealin my ideas are you? I just ordered it but they said it may take them 2 days to ship it.. i guess they have a 1000sq mi warehouse, lol. Wait til next weekend, i'll definitely have used it by then.

Hey tirefryr, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.. I had first contacted just about every fiberglass shop around here and no one stocked epoxy resin, just polyester... Well, seeing as how my build was inevitably going to be delayed again over simple stupid stuff, i told myself i'm gonna have to order this stuff online... I remember 1 company who stuck in my head when it comes to resin.. US Composites. So i call them and tell them exactly what i was trying to do, what i have done previously but mostly starts to fail and the auto environment and pressure\vibrations it will be susceptible too... They told me right off the bat, Epoxy resin alone will fail in the summer and glassing would not be viable option as the adhesion needs to ONLY be between 2 materials, not around them. The exoxy resin will soften in a car once temps reach 120F and will unbond materials.. Luckily, they have a solution. Fasco 110 Epoxy Resin based glue (2 part). He guarantees this stuff will bond anything to anything. It's very thick and has a good pot life. 15min work time, 24hr cure. Resists unbonding up to 350F and once bonded, glue does not allow materials to flex under pressure, keeps the bond perfectly still.. I was a little leary about that thinking it would be too brittle for an spl environment but they ensure me it is incredibly strong and nothing else would be a better solution. Here is what it is- http://www.uscomposi.../adhesives.html

Like i said.. Do not post rumors from hearsay... the XP line has too strong of a backbone for the company to discontinue it.

Your wiring isn't installed good enough then.. when i run power cables, i don't care if it's 1 or 20 to one location... This is in a moving vehicle susceptible to vibrations all the time so things must be anchored for longevity. Zip ties are your friend! If there is ANY slack in the wire due to gravity just letting it hang off somethin or wire going into amps capable of moving left or right from driving.. it ALL gets secured... It keeps the install clean and most importantly safe. I have never had a viced terminal come off nor become loose. Solder is not a mechanical connection or if it is in some situations.. it SURE isnt when it comes to ring terminals!

if you heard it, then there must be a reason.. what is it?

let's not start rumors from hearsay... I'll only believe it from the company itself.. Post it in their section and see if it's true.

i'd say 2,435A at idle and 4,588A max. This is at 1v though, lol

To Everyone in the group buy last year that purchased an LCD meter or USB Pro(dual sensor)- We are about to have custom carrying cases made SPECIFICALLY for the USA ONLY. This product is not manfactured nor affiliated directly with SPL-Lab in russia. Therefore, we will provide no warranty on carrying cases but they are built tough! If anyone is interested in these carrying cases, please PM me and I will ship you one based on what meter package you had purchased. It MUST be either LCD or USB Pro ONLY! Group Buy SSA members who want these cases will pay what we pay for them!

Damn! That's not XP... that's a 7 with service pack 1

I have in the past been using Loctite Heavy Duty 2part epoxy for steel to wood and steel to steel... I do not like it... It sometimes adheres good enough to steel to steel but steel to wood.. it sucks.. I have broken the bonds so many times after days of let cure... I need something GREAT!.. I had been pointed to contact cement... Is this a viable option? I have recently looked at a product claiming to be the BEST bonding agent in the world.. practically. It's called Mitrebond. It claims to glue everything to everything. They said it's actually a CA glue that has been widened for many things. Pot time is 15seconds, hehe and comes with activator. IT's $$$ for how much i need to use but i guess money doesn't matter. Should i purchase this Mitrebond product or use contact cement or is there something else? What i am doing is adhering steel runs to the car's frame. (some are actually welded but some others cannot be welded so they can be removed easily later. steel to wood comes into play when attaching walls of an enclosure to the steel itself.)

what? u might want to reclarify what u just said... WS- 25ft of 1/0 black $83 shipped Knu- 50 FT of 1/0 KCA $98 shipped Looks like you get a lot more wire for your money by going with Knu.. If u want to use this wire for a LONG time, regardless if u go with Knu or WS, u need some No-Ox at Lowes.

99% of people who have problems with AQ amps didnt read the manual... Simple quick fix to see if it's user error- disregard oscope for a moment... unplug the remote control coming out of amp and set gain to about 60% of the way up. LPF around 80-100hz subsonic around 25hz. Now, do NOT blast it continuously but see if that sounds louder.. IF it does, then you are not properly tuning the amp right. The gain on the AMP is the MASTER gain. the gain on the remote can NEVER surpass the gain setting on the amp. I hope people understand this some point in time...

What? MDF would be the material that would tear to shit... Plywood is actual wood rather than dust particles and glue...

yea, i had read about it sometime ago on guys using more rigid material above MDF like Birch Veneer, Baltic Birch, Oak, Maple, etc... There argument was while more rigidity is better at reducing flex, ANY material can have great rigidness if BRACED. this is 100% true though.. But in an HT box, most bracing is done internally where spl designs in car audio are done externally... So i have to go thru different scenarios and see which ones may apply to the car audio field. High rigid enclosure material will resonate higher which can have an adverse effect on SQ.. So.. the debate was to use a high rigid material on the OUTSIDE and MDF on the inside. The way they put it is MDF appears to absorb the sound since MDF is so dense and makes it sound better. Well, when the user glued oak to MDF, within a few days or weeks, cant remember, the oak actually cracked on the outside of the box. I do not know exactly why but it was being focused on the possible fact that the oak never completely attached to the MDF properly. Assumption.. but cant remember.

when attaching hardwood or plywood to MDF, make sure you clamp or put a LARGE and long lasting pressured load on both baffle pieces for at least 12hrs for glue to bond properly. It's been known that gluing oak to mdf has actually cracked the OAK in just a simple HT box... Plywood may not be as porous as mdf which needs extra care during the cure time.

yea, i mean in my testing, i always gain by increasing volume... But you gotta be careful.. if trying to use the same box for music, you might bottom out the sub at all frequencies above and below tuning if it gets too large.

volume isn't everything.. Loading in cabin is key too... One of my buddies who is also a judge set the record last year with a 155.x at the headrest on 4 15s in only 7cuft NET. Everything below the window line and entire install ONLY in cargo area. He recently switched vehicles and took this street box with 4 15s and threw it into a prebuilt van with a 6thorder shell and broke 161 with no tuning @49hz.

i ran a DC Lvl4 (1000wrms driver) off 7kw for burps and never had a problem... Hell, Clay ran 24,000w to a single Dc Lvl4 XL and didnt have a problem. Point is, just throw however much power u want to and see what happens. Remember, burps should only be done long enough to get the score. build the box so the sub doesnt fold when running lots of power either.

just use allow 6061\6063 The alloy in the 1100s is awesome but for the price difference and only an increase of conductivity of around 10%, it's not worth it.

only for burps and having seen efficiency specs @1ohm.. wiring that low, your efficiency is probably going to be in the mid 60% range if not lower. So.. u better have a LARGE ass battery bank.. like 3 G31s on that wiring config if u seriously expect to see a good gain.

isn't it everybodies? it does nice on all the meters

missionary style

He doesn't know this yet but this is what it's gonna look like after bracing- For your info, here is specs- Final NET- 20.5cuft 4x4s in the corner. angled out at 9x9" in the corners. the middle brace as follows- going from front wall to port wall- glue 3 2x4s together 35.25" long Going from top 2x4 brace to floor on the front wall- glue 2 2x4s together and glue them to the top 2x4 brace, floor and front wall. Do the same for the middle brace, 2 2x4s glued together and glued to top 2x4 brace and floor. For the brace along the back of the port wall- Glue 2 2x4s together (4 total, 2 for each side) Once all 4 are glued together(2 thick pieces now), attach them to the back of the port wall, sides of box and the main 2x4 brace. These 2x4s need to be turned so the 3.5" wide side is vertical so u can get the most surface area of the 2x4s attached to the back port wall. The 3.5" width of the 2x4s are used on the front wall. the 3.5" width of the 2x4s are used on the underside of the top piece.

ur audiopipe uses capacitors to push transducers so the impedance can change normally resulting in the amperage decreasing but the voltage hopefully constant... ALL Audiopipe lines that start with AP are good amps. The AP1500 has angled connectors which suck but besides that.. I have also seen power graphs conducted by the buildhouse. AP amps are rated @1%THD Output power @0.7%THD has a 13% reduction in power. Output power @0.3%THD has a 23% reduction in power. Example- AP1500w 1500w @1ohm @14.4v @1%THD 1305w @1ohm @14.4v @0.7%THD 1155w @1ohm @14.4v @0.3%THD

transducers