Aaron Clinton

Where your signal is crossed over has nothing to do with the power going to them. By active, we mean having the front channels powering the tweeters, and the rear channels powering the mids. This way you can ditch the passive crossover if you buy passive components. As many have seen here, the end result in sound is superior and the cost is lower if you do a do-it-yourself component set. Meaning pick a mid bass that will fit your needs and pick a tweeter that will work well with that mid bass.

T-90 mins.

Always a good thing, we just seem to have something fail on us as soon as we are able to pay off debt.

That one is outstanding.

I just posted that on CA.com

As I am clearly effected by the choice of driver, but I have a few subs that I swap in and out, and at the moment my "sub stage" amplifier does about 240-250 watts at 4 ohm mono. And the 12" prototype plays just fine in a 1.1 sealed. This is in my daily which is a small car that is heavily deadened.

Good to see you back at least.

This is not an RE forum, just US Amps amplifiers. You would probably get more response if you reposted the topic in the sub woofer section.

If the 100.2 is the power, I think it should work well. But if you feel it is too much on the large side for your listening tastes, you can always decrease internal air volume much easier then increase.

Maybe check out the Hi-Vi components. But if you are getting a 4 channel consider going active.

Humm, I am not an expert on touch screens, so I will let someone else take that.

Here is one idea from playing with the box calc. on here: 31hz / 28sq" of port (2" port width) / 2.1 cubes single slot port. Bottom and top pieces: 30 x 14 Left Face: 13.25 x 12.5 x 13.5 x 12.5 Right Face: 12.5 x 12.5 x 12.5 x 12.5 Back: 30 x 12.5 Front: 27.25 x 12.5 Port wall 1: 10.5 x 12.5 x 10.5 x 12.5 Port wall 2: 13 x 12.5 Now this is a little on the larger side and lower tuned then most would do, but this is kind of the specs I prefer. If you want I can post up a smaller box with a little higher tuning.

If you are worried about space, start with a sealed box. Stick with the suggested sizing by Fi. If you need help with a rough box design, there are box calculators on this site, in addition to a pair of professional box builders.

Boosh, what is your budget, and what are your goals to get from a head unit? Personally, I feel one should not skim on the head unit, as it is the heart of the system.

I think with the increased power of the 100.2 to the 125.2, the demand or need for the 250.2 should decrease.

Because I am getting a little tired of repeating myself in a number of places, along with people making ignorant statements about the Xcon, just to state again that the Xcon is a new design, it is not the IA Flatlyne, not the BTL, not the AA Avalanche, not the BTL, not the AA Atlas, not the BTL, not the MAGv3. It is it's own design, if it was a rebadge job, it would not have taken this long to come out, and oh and did I mention it is not the BTL?

Sounds like a win win decision. Both are very good choices, there are not as many IXL's out there, so if you want something most don't have go for the IXL.

Looking good so far!

Heck of a start!

When we have updated material/parts pricing, we will know for sure. I don't want to release an estimated price that was based off a few months ago, only to see that with the material costs rising I posted lower then actual. And on the other hand, I don't want to post a price that would turn out to be on the higher side of actual and turn people away.

I am checking why the pictures are not loading. But I think we have decided not to release the mini-run of super8's because they will be fairly off what the production model will end up being. As for production, the new baskets are still in the works and we hope to have them going soon after.

Ok, maybe I was not clear enough, the logo is not up for debate or how it will look. Just the dust cap itself.