Impious

I was actually just getting ready to say.....Hope they're better than the Kompression fittings from Knu. Because those suck ass. But from the pictures, looks like the compression fitting is different.

How are people supposed to tell you what you what they think if they don't know anything about it? It looks interesting, but given that's about all we know it's hard to say anything else. I'm guessing with the high motor force we're looking at a low Q ported-only driver similar to the BTL?

Tweeters would be the worst thing to add to the rear.

Why the fascination with BL? It's simply a means to an end. Higher isn't better, lower isn't worse, as long as the overall design goals for the driver were met. XBL itself, as a motor topology, really has nothing to do with frequency response, so the statement "but stays flat inbetwen due to XBL" really doesn't make any sense. You can build low inductance drivers with XBL and you can build low inductance drivers with other topologies or motor designs.

x2 and get a good set of components for the front doors. Then if you ever want to upgrade the rear doors, you still have speakers till you save up enough money for another component set. Appreciate the opinions guys, but I'm a showoffy kind of guy (cmon....aren't most of us?) and I would rather not have to explain why there isn't any sound coming of my back doors! I'm still in high school and plenty of friends'll be in and out of the truck. Do you guys have any experience with RE Audio Coaxials? Cuz I found those for super cheap...I'm hoping it's a deal lol Oh, and if I do go front components only, what's something nice for around 150-60? I would rather better enjoy the sound of my system than compromise on sound because I'm worried about what the people in the back seat might think. And like I said, if you absolutely feel you need something back there, keep the stock speakers back there and spend your money up front, where it actually matters. As for options; Alpine Type R Image Dynamics CTX65CS JBL P650C The SSA store also has Bravox Components and Bravox Coaxials available in that price range.

Either ditch the rear speakers all together, or if you feel you absolutely must have rear speakers keep the stock speakers back there and spend your entire speaker budget on the front speakers.

I'm not even sure why you would try to salvage the basket. By the time you replace the motor and softparts, you might as well just buy a new driver. The basket may limit their ability to fit different parts based on dimensions, clearances and attachment to the motor. If you are going to go to the length of having them replace the motor as well as softparts, just buy a new driver. The basket is a $20 part anyways. Even if they could use the JL basket, by the time you paid for shipping both ways, new softparts and motor, you would probably be money ahead to just buy a Fi driver. I believe if you send the driver to JL they can recone it for you, but it's normally very expensive. And they don't sell any recone kits because I believe when they recone a driver they simply stick it back on the assembly line, have the softparts put in then send it back to you. It's normally around half of MSRP to have JL recone a driver, so you'd probably be looking at $250-$300. Unless you are willing to spend the $, you probably have nothing but a paperweight on your hands. What exactly is wrong with your W6v2? Blown voice coil? Torn surround or spider?

I don't know that JL has ever offered the 12w6 in dual 2ohm? The manual for the original (discontinued) W6 series only lists dual 6ohm, and the new W6v2 is only available in dual 4ohm. Anyways, to answer your question; No other company is going to stock a direct replacement with original parts for the drivers. The original W6 series used "off-the-shelf" parts, meaning it would be possible for a company to use identical parts to build a recone kit that is identical to the original parts. In fact, SPL (the brand) built their JWS series, which are clones of the original W6 series, for this reason....the parts are off the shelf and easily accessible. The newer W6v2 does not use all "off the shelf" parts, so another company would not be able to provide an recone kit that is identical to the original parts. Depending on the different driver dimensions (voice coil diameter, gap width, spider landing diameter, etc), another company such as Fi might be able to recone the driver for you which would give you an operational subwoofer......however unless they were able to meet all of JL's original parts in terms of dimensions and various performance/weight aspects, you will end up with a subwoofer that does not have the same performance as a stock W6v2, and it will not have the patented features of a stock W6v2.

Did you have a particular question or concern we could help you with?

Just plug it in and play it like you normally would. Speakers do not need a dedicated "break-in" time. A couple minutes of hard play will sufficiently loosen the suspension.

I would continue to troubleshoot the noise issue. The Maxxlink is at best a bandaid, not a fix for the issue. You need to find the actual cause and eliminate it if possible, and then decide whether or not you want to use the Maxxlink. Have you followed the Noise Troubleshooting Guide that is a sticky here on the forum?

The irony here is that most "internet" amplifier companies are using fairly stock OEM'd products from one of the buildhouses. Which means you are, almost literally, simply paying for them to put their name on it. Many of the mainstream companies have their own unique products designed rather than OEM'ing from a buildhouse. So you are paying for their engineers and/or engineering costs, research and development, and other costs associated with having a unique product designed and manufactured.

I'm assuming it's 200w/ch @ 4ohm given the name......is the power supply too weak to support more power at lower impedances? Or another design constraint such as current capabilities on the output transistors?

Depends on if the 9887 will bandpass the subwoofer or not, most of them do not. You might need the SSF if you are using your subwoofer in a ported enclosure.....otherwise you wouldn't need to use it.

I would like to

I suggested sealed because I presumed part of the cause behind thermally overpowering the driver was that the low Q resulted in a "thin" type of midbass sound, which he attempted to compensate for by applying more power. In which case, sealing the driver and getting better response might help solve some of the problem, and he seemed to enjoy the sound of the Aura's in the sealed enclosure. IMO, that sounds like a pretty reasonable option for him considering he already has the pods built that he essentially just needs to close off the backside of to create a sealed enclosure for the drivers.

I glanced at the manual and it didn't specify. It would need to have a circuit so that when the switch was set to "HPF" it would disengage the SSF. Your best bet would probably to email Jacob to see if this is the case or not. It may not have anything that disengages the SSF when the amplifier is set to HPF. Not "weird", but predictable For example, if you stack a 2nd order Butterworth filter with a 2nd order Butteworth filter, with say a 12db/oct highpass crossover in the headunit and a 12db/oct highpass crossover in the amplifier both set to the same frequency, you now effectively created a 4th order Linkwitz-Riley Which would be -6db at the crossover point with a 24db/oct slope. Ofcourse it gets a little involved if you are staggering different filter types, and yes it can (or will) affect the crossover point and slope. But all of that is not necessarily bad. In fact in many situations it may actually be beneficial. If the OP were to set the SSF and HPF to the same frequency, it would be -6db at the crossover point with a 36db/oct slope (assuming the SSF is 24db/oct). It would appear at first glance that the HPF is set a little high. IMO no reason to set a highpass for a 6.5" mid at 125hz. If he wants better midbass, I would suggest decreasing that and if the 12db/oct slope seems a little too shallow to properly protect the mid, try raising the SSF to increase the slope. That is, ofcourse, assuming the amplifier isn't damaged and that both HPF and SSF are supposed to be functional at the same time.

Since you are going to be using the 9887 for all of the crossover duties, you will want to leave the crossovers on the amplifiers set to full pass.

That's how I roll

He actually posted that question on this forum aswell Link here:

Based on listed parameters it has an inductive corner frequency of ~392hz. If you still intend on trying to use a 400hz crossover frequency, that may be pushing the envelope.

That's actually a really good sub. Built by TC Sounds, based on the TC7 motor. But as Duran mentioned, not really a ported enclosure subwoofer. I used to have four of the 88120DVC (12" version of that model).

That isn't really because they are "Long throw" in as much as the long throw typically requires a longer coil in the gap. Most manufacturers tend to use the overhung coil, which is a long coil one that extends beyond both ends of the gap, as it maintains a pretty linear BL, and it also increases powerhandling. But the downside is this longer coil raises the inductance of the driver and driver speed is pretty much dependent upon it's inductance. Here is a white paper on the subject... although it may be a bit over your head, you may gather some information on how a driver's function is affected by it's inductance. http://adireaudio.co...WooferSpeed.pdf The W0s are not actually "crisper" drivers, they are actually more distorted drivers... That is they have less linear BL (motor force) and less linear CMS (suspension compliance), creating distortions that are actually pleasing to many listeners. I know a lot of people like to rag on the W7, but it is actually a pretty impressive driver, with regards to innovative design and linearity. Like I said in the other thread, most people actually like distortions in the subbass and midbass regions. A couple quick (no pun intended) additional points to mention; Subbass frequencies are not "quick" frequencies. True subbass is not going to be "tight" and "crisp". It is, by it's very nature, slow and thick. When people attribute a subwoofer as being "tight" and "punchy", it's typically going to be because the subwoofer lacks sufficient low frequency extension/capabilities and/or a peak in the lower midbass frequencies giving it the appearance of being "quick". You can't make a 30hz note tight and crisp, properly reproduced it's simply not that type of tone. This is probably one of the reasons why you noted the "crispness" of the W0 in relation to the W7; The W7 has far more capability to reproduce the lower notes properly compared to the W0, so it was more correctly/strongly reproducing those slow, thick notes that the W0 probably lacked. And/or the W0 may have been a little more peaky in the lower midbass making it seem more tight and crisp simply as a function of it's frequency response. If a subwoofer has a peak in the lower octaves then those tight/quick midbass frequencies are going to have comparatively less output which will make the driver seem less snappy, again simply as a function of it's frequency response. It's not that the driver lacks adequate output in the lower midbass, it's just overwhelmed by the amount of lower subbass output. This is a typical problem with the long-throw supersubs that have no problem reproducing the frequencies in the lower register. People use an enclosure designed for a low anechoic F3 which, when placed in a car, become extremely bottom-heavy. There was a lot of talk about drivers like the old Brahma lacking upper frequency response when the simple matter of fact was that there was no physical or electrical reason for this to be the case. The users were simply installing the drivers in an enclosure that overemphasised the low frequencies so that the upper bass was comparatively much lower in volume. If you are noticing a trend, the issue is normally one of frequency response and not one of the actual ability to reproduce the tight/snappy/crisp frequencies. This same problem can be carried forward into midbass drivers. It could be that these long throw drivers are comparatively louder at lower frequencies where the lower-throw drivers weren't as capable which is making the snap/punch seem more subdued on the long-throw drivers. Also, Andy from JBL recently mentioned on DIYMA that snappy, punchy midbass depends also on flat response between 1kh - 4khz. This wasn't really something I had thought about before, but since reading that I've been spending more time really listening in my stereo and came to realize......he was right! If you look at that graph posted earlier you can see that the harmonics on many of the "snap" producing instruments extend into the several kilohertz range.

Clipping is transient, as is power output. And it can be eliminated. The amplifier is being overdriven on the peaks of the music, and as a result the top and bottom of the waveforms are cut off (which is why it's called clipping, the wave looks like the tops and bottoms were clipped off). This is bad because while this is occurring, the average power of the signal increases (it can double in the worst cases) which can overdrive the connected speakers. Yes, it is primarily a function of an improperly set gain, bass boost, boosting the signal with an EQ, overdriving the input of the amplifier with too much signal, etc. If you were experiencing clipping, it was likely a result of one of these being improperly set and reducing their level will alleviate the problem. How exactly were your system settings adjusted? What amplifier and headunit are you using?

The purpose behind the light bulb is to protect the tweeter from being over powered. Once power reaches a level sufficient to begin lighting the bulb, the resistance of the filament will begin to increase. Due to a portion of power from the amplifier being wasted as heat by the bulb and the resistance of the circuit increasing, the power being delivered to the tweeter is reduced...ideally keeping the tweeter from being thermally overpowered and damaged. If you are actually blowing the bulb, then it's effectively acting like a fuse. Rather than simply lighting to reduce the power applied to the tweeter, the light bulb is being overpowered and blowing. You're either using too much power (possibly clipping), or the size light bulb is too small and could be probably be increased some.