Impious

Those would be overboard for this setup. It's not going to sound "good" regardless, so he just needs to keep things from breaking. Anyways, we can't tell you what you need until we know what you are already working with. So I guess you need to atleast find out the requested info about the crossover section in the Sundown amp before we can answer your question.

How and why did you choose that speaker combination? Where are all of the speakers going to be located? What crossover functions, frequency range and slope does the Sundown amp have? Does your HU have any built in crossovers? If so, what is their frequency range and slope?

My guess would be yes, the back is not considered a separate "wall" because it's simply an extension of the 3rd wall. For the purposes of that question in the programming it's probably indifferent whether or not the port bends and follows the rear wall since at any given point the port is only touching 3 walls of the enclosure.

You do realize that more than likely the main reason it sounds like shit is because it was recorded with a crappy mic and being reproduced by crappy computer speakers, right? What you hear is anything but an accurate representation of the actual sound they are producing.

What are the dimensions?

Eye on the TV 'cause tragedy thrills me Whatever flavor it happens to be Like: "Killed by the husband" ... "Drowned by the ocean" ... "Shot by his own son" ... "She used a poison in his tea, Then (she) kissed him goodbye" That's my kind of story It's no fun til someone dies.

Being square won't necessarily diminish it's qualities. But I've never used them or heard anything about them. They might be decent......Peerless, HiVi, etc all make reasonably well performing compact and cost effective full range speakers.

How high in frequency are you talking? And why do you want your sub to play midbass?

That would make for a great "IB" sub in a car too

I think this picture belongs in the audio addicts thread. You know you have an audio addiction when.........you use a sub motor as a door stop.

Keeping power low while trying to "break in" a loudspeaker is actually counterproductive to the goal. The only way to "break in" a driver is to actually exercise the suspension. The most effective method to "break in" a speaker is to run the speaker free air and drive it to Xmax for a period of time, though this is completely unnecessary in most situations. Moral of the story is to plug it in and play it like you normally would. The subwoofer will break in naturally with normal usage, and except in some limited circumstances the differences between pre-break in and post-break in performance won't be audible anyways. Whether or not that amplifier is too much power depends more on the enclosure than anything. But you can always turn the amp down some to keep things under control if it does turn out to be too much for your specific circumstance.....but don't worry about turning it down expressly for some arbitrary "break in" period. That's useless. EDIT: Damn, ya'll be fast posters. When I started typing there weren't any replies.

Our goal is nothing more than to not allow the members of this forum to be mislead by inaccurate information and statements, and to correct that misinformation (misinformation potentially given unintentionally). I find it hard to believe someone could rationally take issue with this. In summary: No, you don't really have anything other than a subjective opinion. Not if you understand the actual performance differences between poorly performing asphalt CLD, and CLD actually designed with proper materials for deadening.....assuming actual deadening is the goal. It would be ignorant to use a product that performs poorly at deadening as a sound deadener, and to recommend it for such usage. Here is a quote from Don in the Why Not Asphalt? thread, that I think sums up your side of this discussion quite accurately, as well as the problem with the reasoning you propose for suggesting why FatMat is a useful deadening material; That doesn't make everyone's opinion right or accurate. For example; I can be of the opinion the Earth is the center of the solar system because that's the way it appears when I look up at the sky. It's my opinion, and I'm entitled to it, right?

How tall of a coil are you using?

I used to get cortisone shots when I was younger for allergies. Every year the Dr would tell me that it would be the last time he'd give it to me as it can damage the cartilage in your joints and cause arthritis like Audible said.

Have you ever used this product to back up your claim? I disagree. I did the entire interior of my truck in Fatmat and it's worked great for me. You can check out the pics in my build log. http://forum.realmof...-build-log.html I used heat on a lot of areas to get it to lay down the way I wanted it to (my wifes blowdryer lol). As I said before it's worked great for me and in the 100+ degree weather of GA none of it has even began to peel. Oh and I have absolutely no smell either. Considering the inferiority and problems with asphalt based deadeners is well documented, why don't you back up your claim with something more than a subjective "it works great for me" and "it hasn't fallen off yet". (And FYI, simply "not falling off yet" isn't of significant consequence, especially if you understand how asphalt breaks down and becomes even more ineffective over time and exposed to heat).

Nice photos. Look really good.

2 mids in each front door... I wanted to make sure you weren't doing something crazy like putting one up front and one in the back bridged off the same channel.

Personally I would get an external processor for EQ and time alignment, and just use it for the xover functions as well. Where are the bridged mids going to be located?

Just do a fused distro block right before the amp.

What gauge wiring are you using? Does the amp have internal fusing?

Personally if it were a large amount of current I would split it up to distribute the current and the heat. Depending on how everything is designed internally, it's possible you could end up burning things up inside by pulling all of the current through a single terminal. On the other hand, if the multiple inputs are more for "looks" and they are all fed through a single wire/trace on the inside of the board it might end up working fine. So.....it really depends on the specific circumstances. But if you could split them up, that would be the safest route. And it might possible be the only route depending the design of the amp.

That 500D looks pretty small in size. What are the approximate dimensions?

Let me state that these are guesstimates so proceed at your own risk. I presume the tweeter is a standard small format simply mounted in a fancy housing. Why do I think that? Because you can swivel the tweeter some inside the housing, and you can see what appears to be a standard small format plastic housing around the tweeter. So my GUESS is that you could probably disassemble these with no issues, other than I don't know what the connection terminals look like inside of the case. It probably has direct-connect wires which you would have the be careful not to pull out of the tweeter itself. The midrange however, to me, looks like it was manufactured that way & wouldn't be able to be disassembled. Any particular reason you can't just scrap your original plan & figure out a way to use them as-is?

Rumor I've heard is that not all horn users have experienced optimized results with the MS-8. According to some of the rumors I've read, Andy Wehmeyer (of JBL) indicated that this isn't surprising as the MS8 wasn't as explicitly designed to deal with drivers that have controlled directivity. People seem to have very mixed results in using the MS8 with horns, though with some work apparently some have managed to achieve good results. The MS8 does a LOT of shit behind the scenes......a LOT of the ability to obtain good results is based on how the system is setup before the auto-tuning, a LOT of the ability to obtain good results is based on figuring out why you aren't getting good results when you don't (which happens, often) and then figuring out how to fix the issue. I've read some pretty widely varied (and some very unorthodox) tricks on trying to get the MS8 to do what people want it to do. The MS8 isn't as stupid proof as people thought it was going to be. Quite a few people with horns have yanked it in favor of manual tuning. Long story short; In this instance, it might make things worse rather than better. Even I, with a fairly "standard" setup, have had to do some messing around to start to get results close to what I wanted. It's definitely not plug-n-play.

Yes, passives would have to be custom designed and built which, to do properly, would be a MUCH larger pain-in-the-ass than using an active crossover. Active is about the only sensible way to go if you went with that driver selection.