Sencheezy

So one 15 cost 824, or two Zcon 18's for 938 + shipping, I wonder which one would be louder

What did we tell you about that whole "thinking" thing. Its bad for your health.

Thanks for the heads up, but, I've known Massive to be pretty expensive, and their RK6 line doesn't disapoint, its price is 350... Thats kinda steep for me ATM. I'm pretty confindent that SA would be a lil bit more wallet friendly. I hear ya man. I have no doubt that SA will be more wallet friendly with the same amount of performance. I was just throwing an option out there for something to play with until they get their 6.5's finished and produced. Definitely not trying to turn anyone away from SA, I love their products.

OUCH!!! Don't know how you know that but thanks!!! Good thing I'm a fan of the Zcons instead lol

I haven't heard anything bad about them.... But, the site seems to not have LFTN making magic behind the seens lol. And the enclosure specs they have, are for every single driver they offer? Its kinda all generalized, like, all 10's use these recommendations, all 12's use these enclosure specs, etc etc. But besides those two things, they do look pretty beefy, especially the extremes. I wonder what their prices are??

Glad to hear that you tried it! Well, atleast you did get some kind of benefit from it ya know.

Thanks for the heads up, but, I've known Massive to be pretty expensive, and their RK6 line doesn't disapoint, its price is 350... Thats kinda steep for me ATM. I'm pretty confindent that SA would be a lil bit more wallet friendly.

Just stumbled upon a new car audio company. Thought to maybe share this with you guys. http://www.sonicsoundlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=47&Itemid=53

Hmmmm..

I would love a strong 6.5 woofer from you, would be it without second thought. Reason being, a lot of us don't want to spend the resources to mold a 8" or a 10" in our doors. And since a lot of vehicles have a 6.5" adapter, I think it would simply be a lot easier for the consumer to pick one up, and install. I know for me, and other Ford Explorer owners out there, we have a 6x8 opening, (FML), but we can pick up an adapter, to house a 6.5", and my plans are to run a woofer, and a tweeter per door, but do not want to pay to get some fiberglass done to fit an 8 or an 10". I don't believe that I am the only one that feels this way...

In my pants....

I'm VERY interested in this as well!!

I had a pioneer before, and it did the exact same thing. All you have to do is ground like shown above, but i did though, was also, ground that bolt in between the RCA's, to something, a good ground. It must have its own ground, don't borrow something else. Also, maybe a good thing to ground the chassis of the HU as well. But be careful, I wouldn't do this while the car is on. Disconnect your Battery before trying new grounds as a safety precaution. My ground became loose a few times while driving and bumpin, of course, I would just pull the HU out, and do some wiggleing, and would get away with it. But the last time it happen, I blew my Amplifier because something touched something that wasn't suppose to, and it actually cause my amp to catch on fire, you could see a flame whe you looked into the ground and power supply from the outside, very bad. Hope this helps. I also tried that noise reducer, tried the one a Radio Shack and at Walmart, the one at Walmart (Scoche) worked the best.

Now you just gotta try and stay young!

Everybody say Happy Birfday to Aaron

<br /><br /><br />Could we get a confirmation? These are not set in stone yet..... ZCON PRICING 12" $449 + SHIPPING*** 15" $459 + SHIPPING*** 18" $469 + SHIPPING*** ***pricing is always subject to change.

I can see why that can be a limiting factor. Theres obviously twice the surface area. But what are other limiting factors to adding a huge H/O alt? Also, will adding a H/O alt or a multiple setup strain the engine? Make it work harder, and in return, more engine noise and less MPG? Work harder, yes, less MPG, yes. More engine noise... not really but maybe a little because the car will push more fuel in and adjust the timing. But remember it takes power to make power. For example, on my 270XP if i dont play my stereo I get 25-28MPG. If I get on it the whole way home from work I will see 19-22MPG. Those are the answers I was looking for! Thanks, I was assuming so, just wanted a confirmation. I've heard ppl putting a smaller pulley to make less ware on the engine, but don't know how much truth there is to that either. But 6 MPG is a big difference for example, most of my commute to work is highway, 25 miles one way. And I'll avg 18-21 mpg, so if I wang it for that 30 minute trip, using your example for comparison, I could potential drop 6 MPG, that could hurt if your not balling and don't care too much for 4$/gallon lol Oops if i'm wrong but wouldnt putting a smaller pulley on make the engine work harder, not less wear and tear? Smaller pulley would cause the alternator to spin faster. That means smaller pulley compared to whatever is "supposed" to be used means the alternator will be putting out more power at a lower rpm than normal... that means more horsepower loss at a lower rpm which means even more sluggish driving while under maximum load. I would NOT put a smaller pulley on anything when buying a new high output alternator. If anything, you would want a larger pulley if you do not like the feel of the car at rpms around ~1000rpm or lower. Larger pulley would drop the output at rated rpm by several amps. The alternator can still produce maximum rated power, just at slightly higher rpm. This isn't exact but an example is the following- If a 270 can do ~240A HOT @1800rpm, Then larger pulley may not output 240A HOT until ~2500rpm for example... Again, not exact math, just randomizin numbers for ya. Maybe someone from DC could chime in on this one?

Swapping tail lights out in my car takes about 30 seconds drunk... There either cheap hid kits which everything I read are bad, or there is one set projector headlamp set for $800... I think I'll try doing it myself, I won't be the only one, worst case I end up spending more money and end up buying new oem headlamps / housing, I'm in it to learn Well, to give you an idea, check these out. http://www.littodevilperformance.com/hid/gallery/toyotasciontc/index.html There is a site that I'm looking for where the guy did a step by step with listed equipment, maybe google will be your friend on this one.

Maybe, Maybe not

¡feliz cumpleaños! Buon compleanno Lá breithe shona duit Sretan rođendan Not sure which language you speak soo..... LOL Happy Bday!! I'll give you a beer for every year you've been here on this wonderful planet

<br /><br /><br />Could we get a confirmation?

What exactly is going to be new? Casing, Heat sinks, internals (obviously), or just a complete overhaul?

I like them darken. I am thinking about putting Vinyl over mine, since it is thicker so it will last in the weather conditions. Also, I wouldn't mess with the taillights until I installed LEDs there first. Also, installing projectors is a very daughting task if you've never done it before. I would just buy a kit if its available for your model from ebay or something. Some individuals out there charge up to 1500 to install them, some even install quad projectors which look sick, but for the expense, IDK. Also, there are gonna be some mods needed for the transformation. I think it would just be easier to buy the entire headlight kit that comes with projectors already installed IMHO.

Price comparison to the BTL N2 Fully Loaded? I know your probably gna say a good product at a reasonable price or just competitive pricing, but I was just more interested in if the Zcon will cost more, or less, then the BTL fully loaded?

<br /><br /><br /> Google VLED