johnecon2001

I hate leg day. I did that on tuesday. Tomorrow is arms and chest again.

not sure what your talking about? there's allways room when you need it to work he's a crazy mofo with some beer(s) in him, lol I rest my case.

I'll be first

If you disconnect the RCA's from the amp and the subs still hum.. then you already found your second problem. It's obviously a bad ground (could also be a bad amp, but that's pretty unlikely). You want to find a grounding point that is as close to 0 ohms as possible (you can check with a DMM). As far as the LOC getting a poor signal, whenever I used one I always tapped off of one speaker and then used little wire jumpers to get signal to the other channel of the LOC. Just always worked better that way. I can't really explain why. If I had to guess I would say some sort of electrical cancellation.

Jesus that silver one is gorgeous. and I'm broke.

Moved to computers On another note, if the amplifier in the logitech system is only rated at 8 ohms, you can be pretty sure you're going to cook it no matter how you wire that sub up. And if iirc that logitech sub is an 8", not a 10". So you would need to build a new box as well and transfer all the components.

Wasn't talking about you bud. I was referring to the people at the shop. Take a chill pill.

Well, one I never argue with Jacob, two, i don't wanna risk my integrity. So with that said, to run 2 amps at .5 ohm or even 2 amps at 1 ohm. What kinda of electrical should I have, Im lookign to upgrade next car to more then one 2400 and more then one 15"... HO Alt, and 2 runs of 1/0 and 2 2400s should be plenty right? Thats a lot of weight looks like im getting an SUV =) Jacob mentioned that the 1500D can pull 220A at full bore (I think at 1ohm.. maybe it was .5). You need a 2400 for each amp and yeah two runs of 1/0awg (two for EACH battery) from a minumum 200A alt.

Did you even read your own thread? You used the wrong wood. That box doesn't have a chance. And jesus christ.. tell your friends to grow some balls. Its a truck. Its supposed to get fucked up.

what is it with you manufacturers and all your moofers going on sale? Seriously, I can't afford this.

oh yeah.. oops. Did I mention there are kits for a double din radio?

wow, they just let any one work in car repair shops these days don't they. Some people are completely clueless as to what really happens with an alternator. You're right about the regulator, besides.. amps won't fry the car's electrical (the car only uses what it needs). If the Regulator goes haywire and sends 18+ volts through the system.. that can cause problems.

Technically that's wrong too.. I think we can safely call this the T-CON.

Not to brag my own truck any.. but the 05-08 Tacomas can take up to an 8" mid in the door plus a 2" tweet. You could easily go three-way with the cavities that are in the panel. Another nice thing is the Access Cab (extended essentially) and the Double cab. The double cab can fit subs and amps behind the back seats while the access cab can take a massive ported box in the rear section if you don't care about passengers (hey, its a truck). There are pics of my truck here

Quoted for truth.

I wanna see the T/S params on that after its built

Cooper.. your a TARD.

Holy crap. .35ohms on poweracoustik.

acidburn has two in his Impala sealed. I'd guess close to .5cuft

ok. x2 +1

Not to play devil's advocate here.. but you'll never hear the difference, unless of course you have higher quality system components.

Ride: 2005 Toyota Tacoma SR5 4x4 TRD Sport In theory someday it will have: 15" ICON Pioneer AVIC-D3 Sundown SAE-1000D Monitor1 Mk4.70 + Monitor1 MX-1 Seas W18NX-001

Is that your old amp mark?

How do you like the Power Acoustik amps? I've never seen someone use them in comps before.

ground the LOC to the body of the car.