Jay-C76

Amazing skills!

Thanks guys for the compliments!

Hope to get these done soon so I can put up a video of these for y'all!

Test fit on the tweets. I have to say these things are stout! Very well designed & assembled. I am very impressed by the build quality on these tweets.

Have to still add some filler for the imperfections before painting.

Doing some custom tweeter pods for evil tweets for a guy that I work with. Evil 6.5's in the doors and evil tweets in the sail panels. Here's the before pics.

I used to have 15" earthquakes back in the mid 90's, they totally sounded like dookie in a sealed enclosure. It wasn't until I went ported with the enclosure that I had a major improvement. It was like I put new subs in.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

Your power wire will be the constant... Ground will be grounded... The swiched power or remote wire will be from the head unit and is typically blue or blue/white stripe (aftermarket) or labeled as an accessory (acc) switchable wire commonly traced on a diagram to either another piece of equipment or a switch. Simple answer, no it would now be wise to splice in an aftermarket amp to run off the factory wire harness. Mechanically inclined was used loosely in responses by the reactions you gave to people trying to help.....

haynes manual should have the wire scheme in the back of the book if you are trying to trace color

Poor woofer design...

Just out of my experience, the design you have on the port has yielded you a very poor output. With the numbers you put up & equipment, you cou do far better with a simple redesign of your enclosure. The port design is killing your output. With a dual common chamber you should never increase then decrease port area as you have done in the design. Modeling the design with such a dramatic change in the flow on the port is next to impossible to accurately model. You should keep the port equal throughout in the design and you will put up higher numbers on output. I managed going from 146 up to a 150 on 2-15" Icon (3500rms @ 32hz) just by redesigning and testing about 6 different enclosure designs. Change the internal net volume and port volumes, then adjust tuning to accommodate you vehicle peak. After that, model the enclosure to find a comfortable preference on the tuning to accommodate your response graph.

Thought exactly the same thing when I uncorked mine years ago. One of the most accurate subs I have ever heard. Nice choice!

Braced up! Overkill is good! Get that f/g started now David!!! Maybe next year they'll be done building the subs! Lol

Another tease pic!

If it helps, this is a great resource that I use on you tube... He has a large amount of vids for Fords & used to be a ford tech. Sorry for the kinda wacked link but you can find his stuff on YouTube.

That looks like it's ready for a t.v. promo! Can't get over that shine!

Amazing! Wish this had it's own thread. There's a ton of info & pics that are mind blowing.

This may sound weird.... Is it a whine that increases with engine rpm, hum that is steady or wave pulse, or pop sound when it happens?

You have resistance build somewhere in a ground. If nothing has changed and you haven't recently added anything to the mix, I would check all of your ground connections. They can loosen from vibration or become bad from corrosion, especially when left bare and exposed to weather.

What is the name of that cleaner? It seems to work like a champ!

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Jason C, 3 hours 48 minutes 24 seconds