jcarter1885

Stinger Distribution Blocks for my mids/highs amps:

I got two new rolls of speaker wire from monoprice.com, both are 14 gauge wire (one is 50ft. and the other is 100ft.). Need to find out how to take these doors off so I can run my new speaker wire and get it out the way.

Good amp that you just purchased, heres a tip. Install the front components first on the amp then play your system as you sit in the back seat, this will help you determine if you need rear fill for your application.

Sub and Amp:

Tweets/Horns Amplifier: Sundown SAX-125.2

8" Mids Amplifier: Incriminator Audio IA6.4 or Zed Audio Draconia-II

Just a few snapshots of equipment I have sitting around for this build log since it will start officially tomorrow. No pictures of the car till tomorrow when it arrives, everything under the hood is new besides the engine so right now that is my focus since it has over 200,000 miles. I will replace the primary battery with a XS Power D2400 and I will put a D3100 in the trunk with the sounds. Need to find out how Im gonna go about the center console since I cant find any dash kits for the car, need to find room for either a single-din or double-din and my Audio Control Epic-160. I may take the navigation out but I dont know as of yet, we will see (I dont have the software for it so I need to go find it). Center Console Trunk

x2, I use welding cable for all my cars' electrical needs.

You probably already know or accounted for this but just a heads up since I didnt think about it before foaming my trunk lid. Watch out that you dont get foam on the trunk key lock itself or it wont turn, PITA I tell ya.

for Fi customer service.

You dont always have to tear up the rear deck to achieve that goal, you could also put the port firing forward as well. Where the subs firing forward into the cabin of the car?

Probably not but it depends on a lot of factors so install it and monitor your voltage, if you have voltage drops either look into a secondary battery or ho alternator. Every electrical is different so know one can tell until you hook it up and see if it can handle the load from your system.

Enjoy it man

Hey Brad whats the difference if any between these four horns, the B&C and Selenium are Titanium while the RCF's are Aluminum. Looking to match them up with the mini-horn bodies. Dont mean to thread jack but this should help others as well when mating horns with horn bodies: B&C DE500-8 Selenium D2500Ti-Nd-8 Radian 450PB-8 Radian 475PB-8

I wish I had your faith and patience to do something like this, usually I want it to be simple but you take it to a whole other level even when its a simple build.

Do you know where I can get information on the AA carbons? I am looking at a Peerless 6.5" and a Scan-speak 8". I have plenty of time to decide. i will be getting some t/s specs sent to my in my email that I can forward you or see If I can give them to a Mod on here to post and sticky if Fi/AA allows it.

Please do more research on car audio before buying anything. You cant just buy a 16volt battery and run your amp at 16volts. Yes running amps at 16volts or 18volts (if allowable) will increase output but you have to have a seperate setup for that in your car as your car cant run on that voltage level. Way too much work if your not going to be competing seriously, for daily it is not logical.

x2

No problem but off the top of my head these are the only two amps that come to mind: Zed Audio Kronos JL Audio 1000/1v2

Let me know your budget or start another thread and we can help you find something, I dont know how much you want to spend but this is a good option: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/ZED-Audio-Kronos.html Or you could sell your JL 500/1 and get a 1000/1, personally those are the only two options I would go but there are plenty other amps that will suffice.

Yes I am seeking a more pronounced midbass. I am not convinced that it takes certain sized drivers to produce certain frequences. More research...... For conveince in mounting a 6.5" driver would be best for my application but I suppose I could get more output with a larger driver such as an 8". He's not saying certain sized drivers take certain frequencies only. It just would make more sense to do a 8" midbass and a 6.5" midrange instead of a 6.5" midbass and 6.5"midrange, it can be done though. Midbass should usually be the larger driver, 6.5" can produce okay midbass but you will get more from an 8" especially in your application. If you had a smaller midrange then a 6.5" midbass would suffice. But like you said do more research on this forum and on the internet about midbass, speaker size and all that jazz. Also taking car of your door panel as well will determine the midbass you get from the driver you select. Read old post where this has been talked about before. Think about how many 3-way component speaker sets come with the same sized midbass and midrange driver.

Update will be on posted on here when they have some news for you guys, Fi has always done that.

Good review man and great thread

Happy Belated B-day

Im gonna be looking into the 4 channel one when it comes out