jcarter1885

Nice score man

x2, I had to start getting in the habit of taking my faceplate off cause I usually dont. Even if I go inside for a minute Ill at least throw it in the glove box instead of taking it with me. It sucks losing cd's but they can be replaced, glad nothing else was taking.

Yeah next time hide your cd case and take your headunit faceplate off if you dont have tinted windows in you vehicle (really you should do this with tinted windows or not). 1. Hide Belongings 2. Lock Doors 3. Tint Windows 4. Alarm 5. Ways to secure your equipment. These are all deterrents and wont stop someone if they knew you had something and they really wanted it but they can slow the process down or make them think twice about it.

Make your own topic so you can get information towards your application, lets keep this on topic. Thanks

Yeah you got it, the wire doesnt have to be fused but if some thing were to happen you could damage both batteries. I would fuse just to be on the safe side, its a safety precaution.

Yeah you can ground both batteries to the same spot, or run a ground wire from your negative post on your xs battery to your negative post on your duralast battery. Run the 1/0 big 3 wire to the duralast battery, add a power wire going from your duralast battery postive post to your xs battery positive post with a fuse in between the wire.

As long as they dont sell out you should be in good hands.

Considering your inability to even formulate a sentence I can make an educated guess at who is at fault here. And no, I have no affiliation with Fi but I do hate noobie idiots with attitudes. are you done now Only if you are

looking good my friend

Why do you say that if you dont mind me asking?

Either or, it wont matter. If you get one amp, then it will be less wiring but if you have two amps then you have to accommodate for the extra wiring. Just a personal preference really.

You gotta compromise, do you wanna look cool to your friends or have some space. No they wont have the same output since the cone area on an 18" is more than a 12" but they do have the same motors. Either go with a 12" BTL and if its not loud enough and you dont car about space then recone it to an 18".

If it was mandatory like you stated then everyone would be doing and not missing out on it, the fuse protects the wire which in turn is protection for the equipment hooked up to that wire in case of some mishap. Sorry for getting your build off topic OP.

As long as you do it right then there is no need for one really, the fuse just protects the wire in case of a fire or if you get an accident and the wire gets damaged causing all kinds of problems. Its a safety precaution some take, while others dont but not needed.

Just ordered my second amp, this things are great guys hurry up and get one before they are gone.

Weak Sauce son

How are the highs and mids holding up? That is completely fresh, Im liking it man just to let you know

Different purposes. My goal is to reduce the the resonances of the enclosure (the kickpanel). The goal of applying it to the basket of the driver (I'm assuming that's what you're referring to?) is usually to reduce the basket's resonances, which can color the sound if severe enough (although shouldn't be a problem on my drivers) Won't be for a while Need to keep it to run tweeters if/when I decide to go active. Yeah the basket is what I was referring to, just curious as I seen people do it so I thought I would ask. Those Bravox drivers really have me wanting to try a pair of components. Thanks for the heads up on the amp, just though I asked since i needed a little two channel amplifier.

What is your voltage at when playing, check your voltage at the amp as well? What does your electrical consist of as well? What are the settings on your amp now?

I love my new Icon 15", cant wait to toss it in a car on some

If you really have the amp then look in the manual it will tell you what size fuses to put in-line, if not then go do some research: http://www.audioque.com/aq/ I would put fuses between my amps regardless of how close they are to the battery, it just helps and prevents problems in the future. If you had on-boad fusing then I can see but that amp has no on-board fusing.

Ive heard of the modeling clay thing but I usually see people just coat the back of the driver itself with it? Any take on that process vs. yours or do they still achieve the same effect? Looking good so far and if your interested in parting with the Blaupunkt Velocity VA2100 let me know im interested.

Well if its that big of a deal then go get an amplifier from another company, no need to keep beating a dead horse guys. If interested in really buying an amp from Stetsom and the pricing then just email Aaron or Mark.

Yeah the saz-1500d v.2 is still on pre-order for 400$ which is pretty good compared to the 500$ that it will be after the pre-order. @ OP If you decide to get the Saz-1500 v.2 make sure you have good enough electrical. Or any amp for that matter. Well, I have a Super Duty F250 that has a decent size alternator and two Optima Red Top's under the hood. I may add another alternator if I its required. Is there no difference between the SAZ-1500 v.2 and the other SAZ-1500? It doesnt really matter if it doesnt get here for a month. I am telling my wife all this can be my Christmas gift. lol. Just keep a good eye on the voltage. If you see that its getting low then go ahead and do the big three and another battery if necessary. Well, for right now the v.2 is 100$ cheaper than the v.1. The v.2 grabs some more powerful parts from its big brother the saz-2500d. The v.2 also is a tad bit smaller than the v.1. They tested the v.2 and it put out a lot more power than the v.1. the v.1 tested 1540 max and the v.2 was more like 1750 max. Personally, id get the saz-1500v.2. The difference in output between the two amps will not be noticeable so get which one you can, also the saz-1500d v.2 dont have on board fusing so your going to have to run an in-line fuse before the amp istelf on the power wire.

Nice flex video, any specs on the box there in.